Taking photo with tv in background

I want to do a shoot with a model based around gaming. One shot I want is her back to me playing a game with the tv in the background. Whats the best way to get the best picture out of the tv?

I guess that might depend on what kind of TV you have available.
Try some shots before the model shows up with someone and see what they look like.

I have taken shot's of my TV just goofing around and most turn out good, I have a Plasma.
Good luck with it.

You may want to consider two separate shots, one set for just the TV, the other for everything else. Admittedly, this requires a bit of Photoshop magic.

I haven't tried it with the plasma, but it used to be that 1/30 sec was necessary to get the full scan of an image. In your situation, I'd run a test a few days before. And look at this: Dealing with TV's and CRT's

TVs used to all refresh at the frequency of the AC voltage...older TVs (CRT) refreshed the ODD scan lines, and then refreshed the EVEN scan lines...so although the line frequency was 60Hz, it refreshed the screen fully at 30Hz and this was called an 'interlaced' display. In countries with 50Hz AC voltage, the full screen refreshed at 25Hz (half the line frequency).

In the digital age, monitor refresh can depart from past practice...
A lot of TVs are 'progressive' and refresh all of the scan lines in a single sweep, at 60Hz; more recent TVs even can claim 120Hz or 240Hz!
Computer monitors can have a different refresh rate, based upon what video card sends to the monitor.

To be safe, and with zero other technical information about the unit to be photographed, assume refresh is 1/2 the AC line frequency.

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18215605
I haven't tried it with the plasma, but it used to be that 1/30 sec was necessary to get the full scan of an image. In your situation, I'd run a test a few days before. And look at this: Dealing with TV's and CRT's

Wilt wrote in post #18215629
TVs used to all refresh at the frequency of the AC voltage...older TVs (CRT) refreshed the ODD scan lines, and then refreshed the EVEN scan lines...so although the line frequency was 60Hz, it refreshed the screen fully at 30Hz and this was called an 'interlaced' display. In countries with 50Hz AC voltage, the full screen refreshed at 25Hz (half the line frequency).

In the digital age, monitor refresh can depart from past practice...
A lot of TVs are 'progressive' and refresh all of the scan lines in a single sweep, at 60Hz; more recent TVs even can claim 120Hz or 240Hz!
Computer monitors can have a different refresh rate, based upon what video card sends to the monitor.

To be safe, and with zero other technical information about the unit to be photographed, assume refresh is 1/2 the AC line frequency.

I just made a few photographs of my digital television's picture. I was able to make images at same-exposure combinations of f-stop and shutter speed all the way to 1/640 second. I made one exposure measurement (in manual mode, with auto ISO turned off). Then, I made a series of exposures with equal shutter speed , f-stop, and ISO tweaks (in other words, values that compute for the same exposure) and had what looked like identical exposures for all the shots I made. To allow the variety of shutter speeds, I used ISO settings as high as ISO 2000. I used shutter speeds all the way from 1/30 second to 1/640 second and all the exposures looked the same when viewing the images on the camera's display.

To the OP: What you'll have to do is play with lighting level in the room so that you get a good exposure of the room and your model along with the TV screen. The brightness of the TV screen is essentially non-adjustable so you'll need variable lighting for the room and model.

I've done a ton of water droplets hanging in front of my monitor with flowers displayed, all at a 5 sec SS, ISO 100 and f/5.0.
Was shooting tethered with no concern for refresh rate...never entered my mind.

SkipD wrote in post #18215769
I used shutter speeds all the way from 1/30 second to 1/640 second and all the exposures looked the same when viewing the images on the camera's display.

Good to know. Thanks, Skip!

SkipD wrote in post #18215769
I just made a few photographs of my digital television's picture. I was able to make images at same-exposure combinations of f-stop and shutter speed all the way to 1/640 second. I made one exposure measurement (in manual mode, with auto ISO turned off). Then, I made a series of exposures with equal shutter speed , f-stop, and ISO tweaks (in other words, values that compute for the same exposure) and had what looked like identical exposures for all the shots I made. To allow the variety of shutter speeds, I used ISO settings as high as ISO 2000. I used shutter speeds all the way from 1/30 second to 1/640 second and all the exposures looked the same when viewing the images on the camera's display.

To the OP: What you'll have to do is play with lighting level in the room so that you get a good exposure of the room and your model along with the TV screen. The brightness of the TV screen is essentially non-adjustable so you'll need variable lighting for the room and model.

Intrigued by what you reported, I just did this test myself, on my Samsung HDTV which has 120Hz capability. I played my wife's exercise DVD and froze the image on a frame which had white text, in an effort to see if shutter speed selection might have any effect on WB characteristics. I left the camera in Av mode for all shots, and altered the ISO setting of the camera. As I shot, I noticed quite often that the shutter speed jumped back and forth between two indicated speeds, but I made no effort to rectify this behavior for the test. The shots taken are:

1. ISO1600, 1/250
   
2. ISO 800, 1/160
   
3. ISO 400, 1/100
   
4. ISO 200, 1/60
   
5. ISO 100, 1/15
   

1st off thank you for all the help and info. I will definitely put it to good use.

Secondly A complete off topic note, holy monkeys Batman, I forgot how truly terrible HDMI specs are. So glad I dont deal with it on my computer

Not the specialist here, but to my understanding the main impact on picture stability in modern screens is not coming from the refresh rate but from the brightness control (pulse with modulation; e.g. see here http://www.tftcentral.​co.uk …ulse_width_modu​lation.htm).