Show me your tripod/monopod rig

Indecent Exposure wrote in post #12998227
I think we're literally months away from Android tablets being able to replace full featured remotes for good

That won't happen. You can currently use them to control Canon DSLRs but's that because they basically use an Android version of Canon's own remote capture software, so it's never going to happen with any camera that doesn't support remote capture over USB such as Sonys. The only way to do it would be to have the tablet control a separate add on remote which then controls the camera, like some people have done with arduinos, but then you may as well just use the remote and skip the tablet as you won't get any added functionality such as touch focussing or live view (unless you use the video out such as mini/micro HDMI, but even then you'd be better off sending that to the tablet and still using a separate remote).

monk3y wrote in post #12996838
not sure what you mean by this but in Bulb mode... I just press it for 3 seconds and let it go and wait until how many seconds or minutes I want then press it again to close the shutter.

I am not holding the button the whole time.

yeah, I know, I have one. But I've still had it stop mid exposure thinking I pressed a button. If it happens once it'll happen again. User error or not, I'm not wasting time with it. Like I said, it's a great wireless remote, but I'd much rather have a wired remote designed for the job at hand for long exposures OR interval work.

Simon_Gardner wrote in post #12997194
Er no. The best remote ever is of course the Promote Remote - one of which I bought S/H off a fellow POTN member.

yeah, I forgot about those... OK, mine is the best remote available that costs less than a lens.

The Ran wrote in post #12998383
That won't happen. You can currently use them to control Canon DSLRs but's that because they basically use an Android version of Canon's own remote capture software, so it's never going to happen with any camera that doesn't support remote capture over USB such as Sonys.

lucky for us this is a canon board....

The Ran wrote in post #12998383
That won't happen. You can currently use them to control Canon DSLRs but's that because they basically use an Android version of Canon's own remote capture software, so it's never going to happen with any camera that doesn't support remote capture over USB such as Sonys. The only way to do it would be to have the tablet control a separate add on remote which then controls the camera, like some people have done with arduinos, but then you may as well just use the remote and skip the tablet as you won't get any added functionality such as touch focussing or live view (unless you use the video out such as mini/micro HDMI, but even then you'd be better off sending that to the tablet and still using a separate remote).

It seems that for all practical control (HDR, Intervalometer, etc.) the Android apps are showing some impressive functionality. When you stack added benefits like Liveview, which a remote no matter how fancy cannot do, the Android app seems to separate itself further. Months, I tell you!

Simon_Gardner wrote in post #12997718
http://www.urbandictio​nary.com ….php?term=dogs%​20bollocks

Especially confusing to me is how the 2nd and 3rd definitions fit together.

As the saying goes, the English and American's are two countries divided by a common language.

J.

I recently retired my Manfrotto 190PROB & 804RC2 tripod setup for a Gitzo 2330 with an Acratech GP ball head & Acratech L bracket. Easier to use, sturdier, faster and more precise. With the L bracket it is even more versatile then my 190PROB & 804RC2 combo. In this photo I've setup the tripod to shoot a vertical panorama. Just a few twists of the knobs and I am set. The Manfrotto combo would be a battle of acrobatic proportions to get it setup for a vertical panorama and even then it's iffy at best. What I really love about this setup with the L bracket is that it takes less then 5 seconds to go from landscape to portrait orientation without your center point changing. Normally you flop the camera over to portrait orientation then have another battle of the ages trying to get the same center point and height. I shoot a lot of real estate and this feature alone saves me at least 5-10min a shoot if not more. Overall this setup easily cuts my shooting time by 10-15%. Over several shoots it adds up fast. What really sold me though was the mounting upside down feature. This means you do not have to level the legs in order to level the head for panoramic shots. Since I shoot a lot of landscape panoramas this was a much needed feature and it works so great.

It comes at a price but so worth it. I should have taken the advice I read online a couple years ago about just spending the big bucks for a good tripod right away. Instead of going through all the stages of tripods from el cheapo to mid-grade to eventually higher end. As for price, well, before taxes this setup is around $1200cdn. My Manfrotto setup was around $300 and was planning to go to a $700-800 setup until I checked out what that got me. I quickly realized I needed to spend more money or I'd be back in a couple years looking for a new tripod again. I couldn't be happier.

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Why don't you have the L plate mounted straight to the body? That doesn't look too stable and the plates only half way in the clamp.

The Ran wrote in post #12998877
Why don't you have the L plate mounted straight to the body? That doesn't look too stable and the plates only half way in the clamp.

This setup keeps the lens centered to the pivot point. For the record it is stable. I am always surprised how solid this tripod is.

This explains it. you generally need special equipment to keep the camera properly positioned with respect to the nodal point of the lens/camera combination. If you don't you will get some very strange behavior when the software tries to stitch the images together.

http://www.photoshop-tutorials-plus.com/nodal-point.html

J.

TheReal7 wrote in post #12999079
This setup keeps the lens centered to the pivot point. For the record it is stable. I am always surprised how solid this tripod is.

I didn't mean unstable as in the setup is weak, just that little bit more extension off centre could make it easier to tip over. I don't get why you couldn't keep the lens centred with the plate attached normally, you have adjustment up and down to get it in line again.

The Ran wrote in post #12999384
I didn't mean unstable as in the setup is weak, just that little bit more extension off centre could make it easier to tip over. I don't get why you couldn't keep the lens centred with the plate attached normally, you have adjustment up and down to get it in line again.

With the grip on the camera this is the only way to get the center of the lens to line up with the center of the pivot. The clamps on the Acretech head are excellent. This is a setup I'd use very seldom (clamp not fully seated) but for a vertical pano it helps. As for tipping over, again, this setup is so solid and sturdy you'd have to knock it pretty hard to tip over.

Now i got Manfrotto 679B monopod with Manfrotto 494RC2 ballhead. I love it, but sometimes i miss having a tripod.
Have somebody tried Weifeng's tripod? Weifeng 6662A on ebay is only 58usd: http://www.ebay.com …3a698a93df#ht_3​134wt_1225

I'm still not seeing the problem, this crappy paint drawing should show what I'm on about. On the left is your setup, main rectangle is the body with the grey clamp acting as a spacer below it, the L plate is obvious, and then the red rectangle is the clamp on the ballhead. Then on the right is with the spacer removed, you then move the L plate up in the ballhead clamp to compensate.

The Ran wrote in post #12999564
I'm still not seeing the problem, this crappy paint drawing should show what I'm on about. On the left is your setup, main rectangle is the body with the grey clamp acting as a spacer below it, the L plate is obvious, and then the red rectangle is the clamp on the ballhead. Then on the right is with the spacer removed, you then move the L plate up in the ballhead clamp to compensate.

The problem is you're thinking the clamp at the bottom is optional. It is not. It's part of the L bracket.

Really? That's, well, quite stupid, never seen one like that before. I don't get why you'd need the L plate to have a quick release from the body.

Not stupid at all. I prefer this over an L bracket mounted to the camera that I'd have to reach for an Allen wrench every time I want to change up bodies.