Low light astro/landscape lens for Canon APS-C

Hello,

Looking for a wideangle lens for my 7D2 for landscapes. I like to shoot normal landscapes but also night landscapes with the milky way.
It is a bit strange that the young mirrorless system have better options, like the very good and affordable Samyang/Rokinon 12mm F2.
For the DSLR there is only the Samyang 10mm F2.8 but i haven't read very good reviews about that one.

I would love to have F2, would make a huge difference for night shots. The other lens i am looking at is the Tokina 14-20 F2 but
it's huge, expensive and only 14mm, which is wide but not super wide on a Canon 1.62x sensor.

The other options are the 11-16 and 11-20 Tokinas but these are again only 2.8. What do you guys recommend?
Have anyone used the Tokina 14-20?

you could buy an eos-m and a 12mm f2 for probably cheaper than a wider fast lens in an EF mount

I was actually thinking to buy a Fuji X-E1 because i love the IQ and usability of that body. It's just the long exposure IQ and bulb/interval timer on the 7D are so nice.

Tokina 11-20mm f2.8.

Only f2.8? Good grief!

You don't need f2 with an ultrawide! For daytime/landscape you'll almost certainly be stopping the lens down a lot anyway.

At night f2.8 will make for a reasonably usable viewfinder. If it's still not bright enough, switch to Live View and use Exposure Simulation. You're bound to be using a tripod for night shots, so using Live View should be no problem.

amfoto1 wrote in post #18256417
Tokina 11-20mm f2.8.

Only f2.8? Good grief!

You don't need f2 with an ultrawide! For daytime/landscape you'll almost certainly be stopping the lens down a lot anyway.

At night f2.8 will make for a reasonably usable viewfinder. If it's still not bright enough, switch to Live View and use Exposure Simulation. You're bound to be using a tripod for night shots, so using Live View should be no problem.

http://www.lonelyspeck​.com …-of-the-milky-way-galaxy/

For a correctly exposed image of the MW in proper dark skies you need 30 seconds at 2.8 with an ISO 3200. I am getting that number from the link above and that works for me too. Also you need to take in the 500 rule although with the more modern higher pixel crop cameras, you can argue that 400 is a better number. 500/(11*1.6) is like 28 seconds. Best to cut it down to 25 seconds there which means ISO is now 4000. Forgive the pun, but no crop Canon is particularly stellar at ISO 3200 or even 4000. If you want to do MW/scapes, a faster than 2.8 option for crop is really a plus. On FF you have much better ISO performance and better lens picks like the Roki 14/2.8.

OP - The best way for crop is really going to be to use a tracker and hone your PS skills. You can layer a static shot of the foreground with a tracked shot of the sky. The guys in this thread do great work there: (I really like Mikey and Pdxbenedetti's work)
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1106101.

Even better than using a wider angle lens with a tracker is going to be using a faster prime with a much larger physical aperture, think 24/1.4 or 30/1.4 or even a 50/1.4 and stacking a panorama with multiple images both tracked and un-tracked. Personally I suck at PS so I really want a better fast UWA option for crop myself and I get where you are coming from.

BTW - The Tokina 14-20 does suffer from some coma issues in the corners wide open, but still not bad.

http://www.lenstip.com …stigmatism_and_​bokeh.html