Help with connecting my 5D4?

Hey guys. I recently acquired a 3.5" Questar telescope. I'm having a hard time finding the hardware/how-to to use my 5d4 with it. I'm fairly sure it's possible.

Anyone have experience with this?

Here is what I have:

https://www.astronomic​s.com …-mak-telescope_p3633.aspx

That's a very nice expensive scope but your going to be very limited what to photograph because of it being a Mak scope and f/14.6 . Very bright objects like the moon and very bright stars will be ok but dim objects like nebulae and star clusters and galaxies you may as well forget . However if you contact astronomics they can tell you what you need for attaching your camera but what I can tell you is you will need a T-Ring camera adapter and a projection adapter .

https://www.astronomic​s.com …telescopes-only_c300.aspx

I knew it was a bit limited as far as targets, but being that the scope was a gift from my father, who got it from his, I figured I'd see what it would cost to attach the camera. It also has the computer controlled drive for longer exposures, so I may give that a whirl too.

Questar makes a t-ring that allows you to attach your camera. The telescope becomes a camera lens.

https://www.astronomic​s.com …s-35mm-cameras_p3956.aspx

The t-ring should mount to the rear-cell the scope (not the top where you'd normally insert an eyepiece).

The caveat is that the diagonal measure of a full-frame sensor (36mm x 24mm) is just over 43mm. That means the adapter needs to have a minimum inner-diameter clearance of about 44mm or you'll get vignetting in the corners of the field. Most people are attaching smaller cameras -- cameras with APS-C size sensors only need about 28mm of clearance because the sensor is physically smaller. That means they don't have vignetting in the corners.

Another common issue is field flatness... that's the notion that when an object in the center of the frame is nicely focused, objects nearer the edges and corners are no longer so nicely focused. Most scopes do not have particularly "flat" fields, but some scopes are specifically designed to create flatter fields than others (such as the Celestron "HD" series or the Meade "ACF" series.) A bit of a cheat when facing this issue is to focus about halfway between center and edge (put a focus star at that position instead of bang-on center in the frame). That way you more or less average the focus across the field so that nothing is too far out of focus. Camera's with smaller sensors aren't impacted as much because they are capturing a smaller section of the field.

As Celestron points out, being f/14.6 means it's a "slow" scope (requires much longer exposures to image objects). You can still image anything... but you'll need to keep the camera shutter open longer to collect enough light. Imaging the moon is easy... it's bright. You could probably image the moon at ISO 100 and a 1/60th second exposure (or ISO 200 and 1/125th, or ISO 400 and 1/250th, etc.) But imaging anything dimmer will require longer exposures... long enough that you'd want to be on an equatorial wedge and you'd need good tracking (which typically means a guide-scope and auto-guider camera & software). That starts to get complicated enough to do on a mount that wont be able to handle the weight and ultimately you'll likely find you just want a completely different mount and scope if imaging is something you regularly want to do.

But for the occasionally shot of the moon, just get the t-ring (it has Canon EOS bayonet type mount on one side, and the scope threads on the other side) and you should be all set.

TCampbell wrote in post #18305922
Questar makes a t-ring that allows you to attach your camera. The telescope becomes a camera lens.

https://www.astronomic​s.com …s-35mm-cameras_p3956.aspx

The t-ring should mount to the rear-cell the scope (not the top where you'd normally insert an eyepiece).

.

I believe the T-Ring I mentioned and the link you provided is the T-Ring that attaches to the camera itself after you have removed the lens ...........

I found this page which may be useful: http://www.questar-corp.com/acc.htm#photo​graphic

Normally to attach a camera to a Mak-cass design scope, there's a rear-port that requires a "t-adapter" -- just a short tube with appropriate threads to attach to the port on the back of the scope. The other end of the tube typically has a "t-thread" which is an industry standard thread diameter and pitch. You would then use the "t-ring" appropriate for your camera model (e.g. Canon EOS means it has t-threads on the front ... and Canon EOS bayonet type mount on the back of the ring.) This adapts the camera so that the telescope becomes your lens (a manual lens since there's no aperture control or auto-focus).

Questar seems to do things a bit differently... they use something called a "p-thread". What confused me is that they claim the scope has a p-thread and that the adapter ring adapts the p-thread to the Canon EOS bayonet type mount. Except... that would mean you're lacking the short tube (normally the t-adapter serves this purpose but Questar doesn't use T-threads).

SO... on that page I linked above, they indicate something called a "Camera Coupling Set" (part number 13075) which they claim is really just a set which includes part 13073 (a set of extension tubes in the p-thread size) and part 13071 (a swivel coupling). You would STILL need the camera t-ring (for a Canon EOS that's part 19356).

Due to the somewhat non-conventional setup that Questar is using, you may want to give your dealer a call and have them confirm that these are the correct parts so you aren't buying something you don't need... or fail to buy something you do need. But from what I can see, this appears to be the list of items you'll need (basically the item 13075 plus item 19356).

TCampbell wrote in post #18308812
I found this page which may be useful: http://www.questar-corp.com/acc.htm#photo​graphic

Normally to attach a camera to a Mak-cass design scope, there's a rear-port that requires a "t-adapter" -- just a short tube with appropriate threads to attach to the port on the back of the scope. The other end of the tube typically has a "t-thread" which is an industry standard thread diameter and pitch. You would then use the "t-ring" appropriate for your camera model (e.g. Canon EOS means it has t-threads on the front ... and Canon EOS bayonet type mount on the back of the ring.) This adapts the camera so that the telescope becomes your lens (a manual lens since there's no aperture control or auto-focus).

Questar seems to do things a bit differently... they use something called a "p-thread". What confused me is that they claim the scope has a p-thread and that the adapter ring adapts the p-thread to the Canon EOS bayonet type mount. Except... that would mean you're lacking the short tube (normally the t-adapter serves this purpose but Questar doesn't use T-threads).

SO... on that page I linked above, they indicate something called a "Camera Coupling Set" (part number 13075) which they claim is really just a set which includes part 13073 (a set of extension tubes in the p-thread size) and part 13071 (a swivel coupling). You would STILL need the camera t-ring (for a Canon EOS that's part 19356).

Due to the somewhat non-conventional setup that Questar is using, you may want to give your dealer a call and have them confirm that these are the correct parts so you aren't buying something you don't need... or fail to buy something you do need. But from what I can see, this appears to be the list of items you'll need (basically the item 13075 plus item 19356).

Check this out , everything is on YouTube .............

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=4XJStyP2d9M

Astronomics :

https://www.astronomic​s.com …s-35mm-cameras_p3956.aspx

Hope he doesn't have to buy this one : https://www.astronomic​s.com …a-coupling-set_p4184.aspx

Thank you guys!