Cheetahstand CL-360 and Canon 70d incompatible flash?

I place the CL-TX transmitter on the hot shoe and the receiver in the flash but when I go to external flash function on the camera, I get incompatible flash or flash's power is turned off. What am I doing wrong or did I buy the wrong flash? When I put the 430III, the settings come up for the external flash. I am new to off flash.

My first guess would be that the transmitter sitting in the hot shoe is not making contact with the pins. The second guess would be that
wireless flash was not enabled in the camera menu. I believe the transmitter would be the master, and the 360 would be the slave. If my memory is
correct the display on the 360 needs to be orange, but I am not 100% sure on that. I will try to verify latter this evening.

Hope this helps,

110yd

110yd wrote in post #18330733
My first guess would be that the transmitter sitting in the hot shoe is not making contact with the pins. The second guess would be that
wireless flash was not enabled in the camera menu. I believe the transmitter would be the master, and the 360 would be the slave. If my memory is
correct the display on the 360 needs to be orange, but I am not 100% sure on that. I will try to verify latter this evening.

Hope this helps,

110yd

Thank you

I did a quick check(with a 5D MK III) and the display of the CL360 needs to be orange-which basically says it is a slave
If the display of the CL-360 is green, it is a master, and I do not think it will work. What is sitting in
the HOTSHOE of your camera has to be the master..

Hope this helps,

110yd

I got it to fire in M,s1 and s2 the display stayed blue. When I take a picture, its completely white no matter where I point the camera. Its as though I took a picture of a bleached white sheet of paper.

I changed the power settings 1/128 I'm able to make out objects but they are fuzzy and extremely overexposed. I tried different settings apecture setting and can not get a clear photo.

You might want to read through the manual or watch some Youtube videos on setting up the flash. It takes a little practice to get it
figured out. If you dial the flash power down, and it is still over exposed, you can bring your ISO down 800 to 400 to 200 to 100. Each one
of those steps is a full stop. Taking the shutter speed up from 100 to 200 to 400 to 800 is moving in full stops to reduce the light on the sensor.
Is your flash the recent version of the 360x or the older version? I am stumped by the "BLUE Display" and suspect that may be the old version.

Hope this helps,

110yd

This is not an ETTL flash like your 430 flash, you have to treat the flash as a separate light source and expose as such. If your images are bright, dial back the power or lower your exposure time and/or ISO.

Its the older version and I read the manual, not much there. I was shooting in av mode. So i need to be in M mode or tv.

The best mode is manual. Since your camera cannot tell what the flash exposure/power/distanc​e will be, the automated modes of Tv and Av will leave you frustrated as you try to find the exact settings to get that exposure correct.

Go to manual, start with 1/4 power on the flash (assuming it is somewhat close to the subject), aperture at f5.6 and 1/200th at ISO 100. Adjust from there. This is from memory from how I start when doing portraits, but I might be off. You should be able to at least figure out where to go from that point, if too dark, raise the power of the flash, or lower your aperture, if too bright, lower the ISO or lower the power, etc.

Here is the approach I use to get used to a manual flash power output.

Light in modifier on stand front 8 feet from test subject with power set to middle of its power range. i.e. 1/16 power for a light that can go down to 1/128 (Ideally something inanimate that won't complain.) Camera at ISO 200, F8, shutter at x sync speed.

The reason for the 8 feet from subject is because that is equivalent to an F stop. i.e. moving the light in to 5.6 feet will increase exposure approximately 1 EV, moving it back to 11 feet will decrease exposure 1 EV.

This approach has everything near the middle of its range. Make the first test exposure. If its too dark, increase power 2 EV and try again. If its too bright reduce power 1 EV and try again. Fine tune until you have the power setting for a good exposure.

Now you know where to start on location. And you have 4 methods for controlling the light on the subject depending on your objective for the shoot.

A) light power setting
B) distance of modifier from subject
C) F stop
D) ISO

Once you've accomplished this with your favorite modifier, do variation with different modifiers to see how they change the exposure at the base configuration.

Now you have a known lighting tool kit that will make it much easier to setup a lighting design on location.

This may sound complicated and tedious but once you've invested the time and fixed the baseline in your memory it will make your life much easier on location when setting up your lighting design.

From the original post I jumped to a conclusion that it was the newer version of the 360. The response that the display was blue was a hint that it
was the older model. In the other thread I suggested getting a Cheetah Light X 2.4 G Wireless Receiver If this is the old
model, I do not know if that will work. I believe the old triggers are 433MHz.

Regards,

110yd

Getting any newer trx/recv won't help with ETTL (as the 360 won't ETTL), but it might help with HSS. I use YungNuo RC622 units and run a sync cable to the flash for HSS.

For now, the issue is simply for the photographer to get the lighting set up and then play in Manual mode to get the correct settings for the exposure desired. From there, it is academic as to what to change up, etc.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #18331013
The best mode is manual. Since your camera cannot tell what the flash exposure/power/distanc​e will be, the automated modes of Tv and Av will leave you frustrated as you try to find the exact settings to get that exposure correct.

Go to manual, start with 1/4 power on the flash (assuming it is somewhat close to the subject), aperture at f5.6 and 1/200th at ISO 100. Adjust from there. This is from memory from how I start when doing portraits, but I might be off. You should be able to at least figure out where to go from that point, if too dark, raise the power of the flash, or lower your aperture, if too bright, lower the ISO or lower the power, etc.

Thank you for the advice, yes i was getting frustrated. I need to understand all iso, shutter and flash power. I started seeing what I was taking a picture of but it was blurry. I raised the shutter and it went dark. So i went from complete white picture to dark. But im making progress.

dmward wrote in post #18331024
Here is the approach I use to get used to a manual flash power output.

Light in modifier on stand front 8 feet from test subject with power set to middle of its power range. i.e. 1/16 power for a light that can go down to 1/128 (Ideally something inanimate that won't complain.) Camera at ISO 200, F8, shutter at x sync speed.

The reason for the 8 feet from subject is because that is equivalent to an F stop. i.e. moving the light in to 5.6 feet will increase exposure approximately 1 EV, moving it back to 11 feet will decrease exposure 1 EV.

This approach has everything near the middle of its range. Make the first test exposure. If its too dark, increase power 2 EV and try again. If its too bright reduce power 1 EV and try again. Fine tune until you have the power setting for a good exposure.

Now you know where to start on location. And you have 4 methods for controlling the light on the subject depending on your objective for the shoot.

A) light power setting
B) distance of modifier from subject
C) F stop
D) ISO

Once you've accomplished this with your favorite modifier, do variation with different modifiers to see how they change the exposure at the base configuration.

Now you have a known lighting tool kit that will make it much easier to setup a lighting design on location.

This may sound complicated and tedious but once you've invested the time and fixed the baseline in your memory it will make your life much easier on location when setting up your lighting design.

Great advice thank you i will practice based on the starting points given.