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Thread started 20 Apr 2017 (Thursday) 11:15
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Sony A9: Is Canon doomed ?

 
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DaviSto
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Apr 29, 2017 17:23 |  #721

mickeyb105 wrote in post #18342079 (external link)
This was a pretty good thread at one point.

That point has passed, and it is now a food fight.

Any chance a mod can close the thread?

It's a process that has to be gone through. If the discussion were closed down here, it would just break out somewhere else. There's some fan-boy food-fighting going on but also some very informative debate.


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Apr 29, 2017 20:18 |  #722

Hogloff wrote in post #18342048 (external link)
Well depending on what you shoot, but not having IS results in pumping up the ISO which degrades the image.

Choose you poison, but I have it on and get very crisp images...don't know what you'd be doing wrong to not get the same.

I have IS - I don't want it and I don't find the need to pump the ISO. I just hold the lens steady and shoot - seems to work OK. Naturally there are limitations but 1/250 gives a VERY high keeper rate with my 800mm hand held - so what would that be at 16mm?

A while ago I posted two consecutive images taken with a 100-400 Mk2 + 1.4 Mk3 on a 7D2 at 1/50 sec one with IS and the other with IS off. So that is around a 900mm FOV - why did people think the IS off shot was sharper? No I didn't change any settings other than the IS.

I only speak from my personal experiences and for 3 years and 4 months I have not used any stabilisation and my "Keeper" rate has shown a marked improvement.

As to "don't know what you'd be doing wrong to not get the same" I now know exactly what I was doing wrong - I turned the IS on! We all live and learn and this was a very valuable lesson to me. IS off is just so much better - try it and see............

All the best, but seriously try IS off it really is better - it has helped me a lot.


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Hogloff
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Apr 29, 2017 20:43 |  #723
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johnf3f wrote in post #18342214 (external link)
I have IS - I don't want it and I don't find the need to pump the ISO. I just hold the lens steady and shoot - seems to work OK. Naturally there are limitations but 1/250 gives a VERY high keeper rate with my 800mm hand held - so what would that be at 16mm?

A while ago I posted two consecutive images taken with a 100-400 Mk2 + 1.4 Mk3 on a 7D2 at 1/50 sec one with IS and the other with IS off. So that is around a 900mm FOV - why did people think the IS off shot was sharper? No I didn't change any settings other than the IS.

I only speak from my personal experiences and for 3 years and 4 months I have not used any stabilisation and my "Keeper" rate has shown a marked improvement.

As to "don't know what you'd be doing wrong to not get the same" I now know exactly what I was doing wrong - I turned the IS on! We all live and learn and this was a very valuable lesson to me. IS off is just so much better - try it and see............

All the best, but seriously try IS off it really is better - it has helped me a lot.

I've got shots with my 85mm at 1/25 second that are sharp printed at 18x24. I know I could not do that without IS. Glad turning off IS works for you..but seems the majority have it on when shooting a 500mm handheld. I've seen enough tests and seen the results in my photos that tell me IS allows you to get sharper images at lower shutter speeds.

Having IBIS allows all lenses to benefit from the IS. My Zuiko lenses even have IS now...which allows me to handhold them using a smaller ISO, which leads to better images.

You do know IS takes some time to settle down after it's activated. Maybe you are taking your photos too soon before IS has a chance to fully engage.




  
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Apr 29, 2017 22:14 |  #724

Hogloff wrote in post #18342231 (external link)
You do know IS takes some time to settle down after it's activated. Maybe you are taking your photos too soon before IS has a chance to fully engage.

Of course I do, but when I have waited for IS to settle down then the subject has disappeared! Also stabilisers interfere with auto focus and impair tracking, added to that stabilisers have, yet, to give me any advantage in shooting interiors so why would I want it?

Just try turning IS off - perhaps you will find your shots improving? I certainly have under any and all circumstances that I have tried in over 3 years.

Try it and see what you think, see if it works for you? If it doesn't then turn IS back on - though I suspect you won't;-)a


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Apr 29, 2017 23:02 |  #725

raptor3x wrote in post #18342084 (external link)
I think you're very confused about how these systems work. All the phase detect sensors are doing, whether we're talking about Canon dual pixel system or any other implementation, is reporting the phase difference to the AF control system. The sensors themselves don't control anything. The autofocus processor can also used some coarsened output, generally using an octree approach, to determine what reported phase difference(s) are most relevant to what the user has specified. In C-AF, it can also use the time histories of these values to help predict what needs to happen in the next timestep. The power of the processing system will determine how much to image sensor output needs to be coarsened, which is most likely the reason why Sony's eye detect is leagues ahead of Canon; their DSP chips blow away the garbage that TI is putting out. This is basically the same system that's use for contrast detect autofocus, except instead of looking for patterns in order to figure out which AF points the camera should take data from it's calculating some average sharpness at each timestep.

The 1DXII and 5D4 also do face tracking in live view using DPAF. It reportedly works quite well, at least according to DPReview, but you're correct in that it's not as precise as eye autofocus; but that's likely due limitations from the DSP chips that Canon is getting from TI.

Well all any autofocus system does is tell the lens where to move based on some sort of input it receives. In the case of PDAF, phase detect sensors calculate the phase distance and tell the lens where to move....contrast detect uses the image sensor data to find peak contrast at a given point.

A lot of people tend to mystify DPAF because they don't really understand it, but its on-sensor PDAF through and through, and nothing about the way the Canon has explained the system to work indicates that its anything else beyond that.

Fundamentally, the only difference between DPAF and the PDAF systems in other mirrorless cameras is that DPAF has two photodiodes per pixel to calculate phase difference, whereas the PDAF systems in other mirrorless systems are splitting the light hitting a photodiode in two, and as such, the sensitivity suffers because the phase detect sensors only see half to the light. Hybrid AF systems augment CDAF to improve the sensitivity of the system... Contrast detect doesn't have a dedicated sensor....it's using the image sensor itself to achieve critical focus.

Admittedly I'm using the term "contrast detect" rather loosely because Sony is doing more with the live-view image to focus than simply find peak contrast to focus. I guess you could call it "image sensor focus", because from a broad sense, its using data from the image sensor to tell where the lens to move, and it isn't always based on peak contrast alone. In the case of eye focus, the AF system is doing more than finding peak contrast...its using the live view image data to do object recognition.

Using the image sensor data to find the eye doesn't appear to be too demanding on the processor. It was a feature that existed on the first a7r, which had a horridly slow processor, and actually did not have a PDAF AF system...it is contrast detect only. Eye focus does not work with continuous AF mode on the a7r though. According to Sony, continuous eye-focus is achieved from higher sensor read-out speed in the newer copper wire structure image sensors. So its an image sensor dependent system, and sensor design seems to matter more than the image processor does.


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Apr 30, 2017 03:56 |  #726

mystik610 wrote in post #18342290 (external link)
Well all any autofocus system does is tell the lens where to move based on some sort of input it receives. In the case of PDAF, phase detect sensors calculate the phase distance and tell the lens where to move....contrast detect uses the image sensor data to find peak contrast at a given point.



Again, just to clarify, the phase detect sensors do not tell the lens where to move, that's the job of the autofocus processor, all the phase detect sensors do it report a some phase difference.

mystik610 wrote in post #18342290 (external link)
A lot of people tend to mystify DPAF because they don't really understand it, but its on-sensor PDAF through and through, and nothing about the way the Canon has explained the system to work indicates that its anything else beyond that.

This is correct, DPAF is just a way of getting a phase difference at every pixel on the sensor while minimizing light loss.

mystik610 wrote in post #18342290 (external link)
Fundamentally, the only difference between DPAF and the PDAF systems in other mirrorless cameras is that DPAF has two photodiodes per pixel to calculate phase difference, whereas the PDAF systems in other mirrorless systems are splitting the light hitting a photodiode in two, and as such, the sensitivity suffers because the phase detect sensors only see half to the light. Hybrid AF systems augment CDAF to improve the sensitivity of the system... Contrast detect doesn't have a dedicated sensor....it's using the image sensor itself to achieve critical focus.

What you've written isn't quite clear so just that we're on the same page, all other on sensor phase detect system uses pixel masking through the CFA grid in order to block light coming from one side of the lens. These CFA masks are setup in pairs where one pixel is masked from the left and a corresponding second pixel is masked from the right. The data from these pixels are then read together in order to get at the phase difference. The issue here isn't with sensitivity but that the data from these masked pixels isn't even used in the final image and these gaps must be filled in with the final image, but even with something like the A9 where you have ~600 AF points, the number of pixels is small enough that it won't have any significant effect on the image quality.

mystik610 wrote in post #18342290 (external link)
Admittedly I'm using the term "contrast detect" rather loosely because Sony is doing more with the live-view image to focus than simply find peak contrast to focus. I guess you could call it "image sensor focus", because from a broad sense, its using data from the image sensor to tell where the lens to move, and it isn't always based on peak contrast alone. In the case of eye focus, the AF system is doing more than finding peak contrast...its using the live view image data to do object recognition.

I'm not sure what mechanism you're thinking of for "image sensor focus" but Sony has three tools at its disposal to tell the lens where to move to achieve focus. First is the phase difference, this one is relatively obvious. Second is the contrast iterations. The third is the time history of known, or at least assumed to be known, focus positions. That's about it, in terms of lens position object recognition does give you anything other than letting you know where on the sensor to look at the available phase and/or contrast information. Also, as far as contrast detect while I can certainly believe there's a finishing contrast detect step for S-AF I really doubt that there is for C-AF. Systems that use contrast detect for C-AF have a very noticeable and regular oscillation and none of the recent Sony bodies, at least the ones that I've owned (A7RII, RX100IV/V) exhibit that. The idea of contrast detect being the ultimate for accuracy is only true for S-AF, the idea of a finishing step in C-AF doesn't really make sense. Finally, just to be clear again, everybody is using the image off the sensor for object recognition (even Nikon), this isn't unique to Sony at all; they're just doing it better with their eye C-AF implementation.

mystik610 wrote in post #18342290 (external link)
Using the image sensor data to find the eye doesn't appear to be too demanding on the processor. It was a feature that existed on the first a7r, which had a horridly slow processor, and actually did not have a PDAF AF system...it is contrast detect only. Eye focus does not work with continuous AF mode on the a7r though. According to Sony, continuous eye-focus is achieved from higher sensor read-out speed in the newer copper wire structure image sensors. So its an image sensor dependent system, and sensor design seems to matter more than the image processor does.

I don't think you're giving Sony quite enough credit here, while a few other manufacturers have also introduced eye C-AF (Panasonic, Olympus, Fuji) they all require the face to be much larger in the frame (a.k.a. operate on a coarser version of the image streaming off the sensor) than what Sony is doing, nor are they anywhere as accurate as what Sony has achieved. This is coming from some combination of superior software and hardware in the Sony cameras. The A7R had it in S-AF, but not C-AF although I suspect that the processor in the A7R is still better than anything Canon has access to unless they ditch TI or somehow force them to step up their game, but I couldn't say that for sure.


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Apr 30, 2017 05:14 |  #727

johnf3f wrote in post #18342269 (external link)
Of course I do, but when I have waited for IS to settle down then the subject has disappeared! Also stabilisers interfere with auto focus and impair tracking, added to that stabilisers have, yet, to give me any advantage in shooting interiors so why would I want it?

Just try turning IS off - perhaps you will find your shots improving? I certainly have under any and all circumstances that I have tried in over 3 years.

Try it and see what you think, see if it works for you? If it doesn't then turn IS back on - though I suspect you won't;-)a

Don't know about long lenses but I never use it on the lenses I use between 24-100, I find the photographs come out sharper and on the whole prefer a higher ISO to using IS. Glad to see Im not the only one who is not so enamoured by IS.


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Apr 30, 2017 06:59 |  #728
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johnf3f wrote in post #18342269 (external link)
Of course I do, but when I have waited for IS to settle down then the subject has disappeared! Also stabilisers interfere with auto focus and impair tracking, added to that stabilisers have, yet, to give me any advantage in shooting interiors so why would I want it?

Just try turning IS off - perhaps you will find your shots improving? I certainly have under any and all circumstances that I have tried in over 3 years.

Try it and see what you think, see if it works for you? If it doesn't then turn IS back on - though I suspect you won't;-)a

I've got environmental portraits with my 85 down to 1/30 second which are sharp. No way could I even come close to that without IS. The only way I could take that same photo without IS is to boost the ISO by at least 2 stops which guarantees will degrade the image more than some subtle degradation due to IS.

You, continue to boost your ISO, I'll continue to use IS.




  
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Apr 30, 2017 07:10 |  #729
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alex66 wrote in post #18342426 (external link)
Don't know about long lenses but I never use it on the lenses I use between 24-100, I find the photographs come out sharper and on the whole prefer a higher ISO to using IS. Glad to see Im not the only one who is not so enamoured by IS.

Not only does increasing ISO create more noise which results in noise reduction which always reduces sharpness, but increasing the ISO greatly diminishes the dynamic range...again affecting the image as you boost the noisy shadows.

My prime use of my images is large prints which vary from around 18x24 and up to 30x40 and even bigger depending on the image. I've tested many different scenarios with ISO and I know from my tests, I'd much rather shoot with IS on and a low ISO than to turn IS off and boost the ISO. This is with high resolution sensors.




  
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Apr 30, 2017 07:53 |  #730

I'll say this song does lead the pack in face tracking but canon is not far behind with the dpaf face tracking... canon just needs to improve the servo part of it. But Sony works good.

Did I mention I want the A9? We should talk more about that.


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Apr 30, 2017 07:56 |  #731

Talley wrote in post #18342517 (external link)
I'll say this song does lead the pack in face tracking but canon is not far behind with the dpaf face tracking... canon just needs to improve the servo part of it. But Sony works good.

Did I mention I want the A9? We should talk more about that.

Talley is doomed.


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Apr 30, 2017 08:20 |  #732

DaviSto wrote in post #18342520 (external link)
Talley is doomed.

Hey!

That's my line!


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Apr 30, 2017 08:40 |  #733

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18342540 (external link)
Hey!

That's my line!

Whoops ... sorry. I got carried away!


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Apr 30, 2017 09:10 |  #734

DaviSto wrote in post #18342520 (external link)
Talley is doomed.

Indeed.

Too Rich for my blood unfortunately. if I was gonna roll around with the Sony then I would have all Sony glass that takes advantage of their facial ID setup which requires their native glass


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alex66
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Apr 30, 2017 09:32 |  #735

Hogloff wrote in post #18342497 (external link)
Not only does increasing ISO create more noise which results in noise reduction which always reduces sharpness, but increasing the ISO greatly diminishes the dynamic range...again affecting the image as you boost the noisy shadows.

My prime use of my images is large prints which vary from around 18x24 and up to 30x40 and even bigger depending on the image. I've tested many different scenarios with ISO and I know from my tests, I'd much rather shoot with IS on and a low ISO than to turn IS off and boost the ISO. This is with high resolution sensors.

Depending on the situation I tend not to go over 400 and will crack out a tripod if needed, obviously it depends on the situation, with live shows the ISO will be cranked right up as lower shutter speeds result in blurred bands and don't need much dynamic range there also. The largest I have printed is 60x40 but most of the work I do ends up in catalogues or used in small resolutions sizes by small bands. When I know something will be used big I will use a support of some sort and shoot at base.


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