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Thread started 08 May 2017 (Monday) 02:38
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Inspeqtor
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May 09, 2017 00:42 |  #16

mwsilver wrote in post #18349712 (external link)
Don't discount the Canon Efs 10-18. It certainly can't compare with the 10-22 with regard to build, but the optics are quite excellent comparing favorably with, and even exceeding, the IQ of the 10-22 for half the price.

Thank you for that information. I was typing away when you responded. One thing I like better about the 10-22 over the 10-18 is the f/3.5


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Inspeqtor
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May 09, 2017 00:54 |  #17

Inspeqtor wrote in post #18349713 (external link)
I just found Sigma also offers a 10-20 F/3.5 EX DC HSM lens notice it has a constant aperture which I have never owned a lens with that option before. I do not believe it has the stability built in. I don't know if I would miss that on a wide angle lens.

Again thank you everyone

Is image stabilization important on a wide angle lens like it is on a telephoto lens?


Charles
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Snydremark
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May 09, 2017 00:59 |  #18

Inspeqtor wrote in post #18349715 (external link)
Is image stabilization important on a wide angle lens like it is on a telephoto lens?

Not particularly, IMO. Since you're operating at such wide focal lengths, and hand-holding, it's generally done in conditions under which it's relatively easy to keep well above the 'reciprocal of your focal length' suggested for avoiding camera shake. I.e, keeping at least 1/10s for shooting at 10mm.

If you're shooting stuff longer (shutter time) than 'that', you would probably be shooting from a tripod/bean bag/etc. which negates the need for/usefulness of IS anyway.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
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DreDaze
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May 09, 2017 01:04 |  #19

Inspeqtor wrote in post #18349714 (external link)
Thank you for that information. I was typing away when you responded. One thing I like better about the 10-22 over the 10-18 is the f/3.5

what do you need the f3.5 for?

if you want fast aperture, look at the 11-20 f2.8 from tokina...but unless you're shooting stars, i can't think of any reason to need the faster aperture...in which case the IS would be more beneficial than the 2/3 of a stop the 10-22mm gives you over the 10-18IS


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Inspeqtor
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May 09, 2017 02:34 |  #20

Snydremark wrote in post #18349716 (external link)
Not particularly, IMO. Since you're operating at such wide focal lengths, and hand-holding, it's generally done in conditions under which it's relatively easy to keep well above the 'reciprocal of your focal length' suggested for avoiding camera shake. I.e, keeping at least 1/10s for shooting at 10mm.

If you're shooting stuff longer (shutter time) than 'that', you would probably be shooting from a tripod/bean bag/etc. which negates the need for/usefulness of IS anyway.

Thank you


Charles
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Inspeqtor
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May 09, 2017 02:45 |  #21

DreDaze wrote in post #18349717 (external link)
what do you need the f3.5 for?

if you want fast aperture, look at the 11-20 f2.8 from tokina...but unless you're shooting stars, i can't think of any reason to need the faster aperture...in which case the IS would be more beneficial than the 2/3 of a stop the 10-22mm gives you over the 10-18IS

I did not mention this initially in this thread, but I do have the iOptron StarTracker that I will be using it some for shooting stars. I think I will use it more for just when I need a more wide angle than I can get at 17mm with my current Sigma lens.

How does the Tokina name compare in quality to other lenses like Canon or Sigma?


Charles
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John ­ from ­ PA
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May 09, 2017 07:56 |  #22

Inspeqtor wrote in post #18349713 (external link)
I found to get the Sigma refurb, there is only a 90 day warranty... not interested in that even thought the price was tempting.

In 50+ years of photography and probably an equal number of lenses, I have never had need for a lens warranty.




  
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mcoren
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May 09, 2017 08:00 |  #23

Inspeqtor wrote in post #18349713 (external link)
I am surprised to hear there is a huge difference between 8mm and 10mm in the lenses. Does anyone know if there is a website that would show a photo that is marked off for the different lenses, and how much would be shown compared to other lenses?

I don't know of a web site showing the difference, but you can easily calculate the angular field of view. For your Canon 60D (sensor = 22.5 mm wide), the angle of view along the wide edge of the sensor is 2x[Inverse tangent(11.25/FL)] where FL = focal length of lens in mm.

So for FL=10 mm, the angle of view along the long edge of the sensor will be about 96.7 degrees, and for FL = 8 mm, the angle of view will be about 109 degrees.

Mike


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FEChariot
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May 09, 2017 08:34 |  #24

Inspeqtor wrote in post #18349715 (external link)
Is image stabilization important on a wide angle lens like it is on a telephoto lens?

If you plan to shoot any video, it sure is nice especially for me since I am not serious enough about video to want to be lugging a gimbal type rig around.


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Snydremark
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May 09, 2017 08:46 |  #25

Inspeqtor wrote in post #18349756 (external link)
I did not mention this initially in this thread, but I do have the iOptron StarTracker that I will be using it some for shooting stars. I think I will use it more for just when I need a more wide angle than I can get at 17mm with my current Sigma lens.

How does the Tokina name compare in quality to other lenses like Canon or Sigma?

AFAIK, for astro work, the Tokina is the preferred lens for it's f/2.8; the f/3.5 isn't far enough off of f/4 to matter. Tokina is fairly well respected, make decent lenses, etc. The one thing to be aware of is that instead of a switch for toggling between AF/MF on the Tokina, they implement a clutch collar; meaning you push/pull the focus ring to engage/disengage the AF mechanism. For image quality, if I recall correctly, the Tokina falls in slightly behind the Canon, but above the Sigma; the Tokina tends to flare pretty badly with *strong* light sources in/just out of the frame. But otherwise does really nice work.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
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FEChariot
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May 09, 2017 08:48 |  #26

John from PA wrote in post #18349900 (external link)
In 50+ years of photography and probably an equal number of lenses, I have never had need for a lens warranty.


Not just lenses but with any electronics I have ever bought, I have only used warranty service once where the item broke outside the return window and that was on an AV receiver. My experience with lenses has been if I notice a issue, its going to be immediate when I test for focus calibration decentering etc. then I just return it or send it for service then while it is still within the return window. If it makes it past the first 2 weeks, then its usually fine. While it is good piece of mind to have a 5 or 6 year service window like Tammy and Siggy, that fact is it is unusual to ever have to use it.


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FEChariot
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May 09, 2017 08:50 |  #27

mcoren wrote in post #18349902 (external link)
I don't know of a web site showing the difference, but you can easily calculate the angular field of view. For your Canon 60D (sensor = 22.5 mm wide), the angle of view along the wide edge of the sensor is 2x[Inverse tangent(11.25/FL)] where FL = focal length of lens in mm.

So for FL=10 mm, the angle of view along the long edge of the sensor will be about 96.7 degrees, and for FL = 8 mm, the angle of view will be about 109 degrees.

Mike

or you can just type numbers in here:

http://www.tawbaware.c​om/maxlyons/calc.htm (external link)


Canon 7D/350D, Σ17-50/2.8 OS, 18-55IS, 24-105/4 L IS, Σ30/1.4 EX, 50/1.8, C50/1.4, 55-250IS, 60/2.8, 70-200/4 L IS, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 IS L, 135/2 L 580EX II, 430EX II * 2, 270EX II.

  
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mcoren
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May 09, 2017 10:10 |  #28

FEChariot wrote in post #18349927 (external link)
or you can just type numbers in here:

http://www.tawbaware.c​om/maxlyons/calc.htm (external link)

That works too. Personally, I like to understand where the numbers come from. :-)

Mike


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FEChariot
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May 09, 2017 10:34 |  #29

mcoren wrote in post #18349987 (external link)
That works too. Personally, I like to understand where the numbers come from. :-)

Mike

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May 09, 2017 21:19 |  #30

There is a used 10-22 for $325 on the forums and probably a few around. I'd probably go that route, but I haven't looked at crop UWA for a while. The main good points about the canon are I think for landscapes - 77mm filter thread and good flare resistance. Also a nice-ish range. I remember using mine at 22m a bit - close to 35mm FF.

The Tamron sounds pretty good - just looked at that for interest. Seems like it should be at least as good, most likely better than the canon.


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