What to sell first - 7Dii or 5Diii?

bobbyz wrote in post #18352562
In what way? I have 5dmk3, XT1 and they both do same in studio. I saw your earlier about XT-2 no nailing AF in case of burnt out modeling light. I have same issue with 5dmk3, 85L when modeling light is off.

I didn't use my 85Lmk2. The 24-70L f/2.8mk2 nailed every single shot.

Maybe the fuji 55-200 isn't so great even when it's f/3.5 on the wide end of the lens.

Jeff Hanson wrote in post #18352721
It's cool how you can turn any thread into a comparison of AF abilities between the 5D3 and X-T2. It's a gift really. Maybe even a super power.

It's still fact that a Dslr is still better in auto focus. The OP's demands in AF is not determined so the X-T2 may meet the demands.

Having two systems isn't a bad thing.

I do not think this is being negative showing a "Comparison of AF" because I'd be certain a high percentage of people will get the "NO AF" red indicator while shooting Fuji using autofocus especially in lower light. During a dark reception I nail virtually every shot with ease using my 80D and 5dmk2 (an 5dmk3 hehehehehe). Red focus beam from the Canon speedlite works flawlessly compared to my bright led burst from my EF-X500 OE Fujifilm flash.

I virtually never get blurry shots from the Canon system. The Fuji I've had enough that the image is blurred but the camera took the shot.

I have both systems and love it. Some people may NOT have issues with fuji's AF so that is fine perhaps because of less demanding needs (different styles of shooting) in the autofocus system. There is still very few pro sports shooters using mirrorless due to the facts of pure extreme demands of NOT missing a shot (crucial lost money shots is detrimental)

Bobbyz,

In studio I'm finding shooting f/10 with the x-t2 with 55-200 the skin texture is very rough. I have to process the skin different with the fuji. I was using a 5 foot octa non gridded for the mainlight for headshots with gridded rim light. I still haven't purchased more prime glass for my Fuji system.

Bobby why use the 85L in studio????? its a pig slow clunky chunk of glass that is limiting to one focal length. I like the 85L for posed non moving subjects close to wide open or wideopen. Use a 70-200 f/2.8IS mk2 if your shooting small apertures like f/8-f/11 for studio. The 70-200 is blazing fast and better micro contrast than the old 85Lmk2.

Jeff,

Do you shoot studio? I'd love to hear your take on your fuji experience. I'm just now trying to introduce fuji to studio.

AlanU wrote in post #18352768
It's still fact that a Dslr is still better in auto focus. The OP's demands in AF is not determined so the X-T2 may meet the demands.

Having two systems isn't a bad thing.

I do not think this is being negative showing a "Comparison of AF" because I'd be certain a high percentage of people will get the "NO AF" red indicator while shooting Fuji using autofocus especially in lower light. During a dark reception I nail virtually every shot with ease using my 80D and 5dmk2 (an 5dmk3 hehehehehe). Red focus beam from the Canon speedlite works flawlessly compared to my bright led burst from my EF-X500 OE Fujifilm flash.

I virtually never get blurry shots from the Canon system. The Fuji I've had enough that the image is blurred but the camera took the shot.

I have both systems and love it. Some people may NOT have issues with fuji's AF so that is fine perhaps because of less demanding needs (different styles of shooting) in the autofocus system. There is still very few pro sports shooters using mirrorless due to the facts of pure extreme demands of NOT missing a shot (crucial lost money shots is detrimental)

Cool, you did it again! It's uncanny and awesome!

To bring this back on track and respect Complete's original post, I sold my 5D3 and 70D and now shoot exclusively with Fuji. Take that for what it's worth, cause I don't have the discerning eye that some others do.

AlanU wrote in post #18352778
Bobbyz,

In studio I'm finding shooting f/10 with the x-t2 with 55-200 the skin texture is very rough. I have to process the skin different with the fuji. I was using a 5 foot octa non gridded for the mainlight for headshots with gridded rim light. I still haven't purchased more prime glass for my Fuji system.

Bobby why use the 85L in studio????? its a pig slow clunky chunk of glass that is limiting to one focal length. I like the 85L for posed non moving subjects close to wide open or wideopen. Use a 70-200 f/2.8IS mk2 if your shooting small apertures like f/8-f/11 for studio. The 70-200 is blazing fast and better micro contrast than the old 85Lmk2.

Jeff,

Do you shoot studio? I'd love to hear your take on your fuji experience. I'm just now trying to introduce fuji to studio.

I sold my 70-200mm f2.8 so only lenses I have left for canon are 35L, 85L and 300mm f2.8 IS and 400mm f5.6. And 85L does very nice in studio IMHO. I just need longer glass for head shots. I need to start using my 90mm f2 on XT1.

I need to setup tethering etc on my XT1 and that is why I still use Canon a lot more in the studio as I am usually teaching classes at my work place. Here is one with XT1, 50-140mm f2.8 and it is as sharp if not sharper than canon. The small size doesn't show what I am talking. And I am no good in pp to remove that plexiglass edge.

Found another one with XT1. Not sure why it is bad compared to canon in the studio.

50-140mm f2.8 at 80mm.

Bobby,

Nice shots by the way...... The first image is a great example (I bet) of an attractive young woman that is slim by nature and great eye candy for the camera.

The lighting I was using was never disturbed. I used both Canon and Fuji. Fuji displayed different skin texture that revealed more pores. Probably due to increased dof from a crop sensor??

I've yet to try simple white background with flatter light with my Fuji. I've found using 2 strobes over exposing the white background and using my 7 foot octabox to be a quick easy setup for soft pleasing skin texture.

In my case my Fuji produced a totally different skin texture compared to my Canon. My 5d3 was set to f/10, 1/125 and iso 200. My Fuji I had to set it to f/10, 1/125 and ISO 400 to get the same exposure. I guess this is a good example of how fuji plays with the ISO numbers (manipulated fake numbers which is common knowledge).

The 85L works but I still think micro contrast is still superior on the 70-200 f/2.8IS mk2 due to the new generation nano coatings. The 85Lmk2 we own has great sharpness but its a different sharpness found in older Canon lenses. If you compare a Canon 24Lmk2 prime vs a fuji 16mm f/1.4 the Canon is sharper with much more micro contrast. The new canon lenses actually increased the "difference" between a sharp micro contrast Canon file over the sharp eye pleasing film like image fuji produces. Fuji is pleasant because it's more "organic /film" looking IMO.

That's why I love both systems.

OP (Complete),

Just remember that the ISO numbers are not truly accurate for Fuji bodies. In lower light I still think your 5dmk3 will produce cleaner images in lower light.

If flash photography for events is in your scope of photography the Fuji autofocus cannot match your Canon gear for locking in low light using focus assist light from your Canon flash. If your liking simplistic non flash photography you can hammer away with fuji but in low light low contrast situations Canon/Nikon should lock on better.

When I shoot causally I'm easier going when AF issues occur. When I'm in the zone shooting an event I have zero tolerance to focus hunting and I've found that occuring in my Fuji gear while I seldom ever have that issue with my Canon.

OP, it's totally your personal tolerance to what your gear provides you. Enjoy and shoot what you love and if the gear delivers....that's all that counts for you (not me or any forum member).

Strange how in the studio, under low light, your X-T2 struggled compared to your 5D3. The X-T2 has a lower limit of -3EV where the 5D3 is only -2EV. That's one whole stop better in low light AF for Fuji. My experience leads me to believe in those numbers, the only time I could ever get any of my 5D3's to be reliable in low light AF was with the AF assist on the flash turned on. Then BAM! How I wish it was technically possible for on sensor AF systems to be able to use IR AF assist but it's not so we move on.

In the studio I've yet to encounter any issues that would leave me wanting, other than tethering on the X-PRO2. Certainly nothing in the AF department. Anyway shooting at f/8-f/11 gives loads of room for the AF to fudge it and still be sharp on the subject unless you are in their face with a long focal length.

In the studio [Using flash] I have the EVF set to not show exp/wb so I can effectively see in the dark, making manual focus a breeze if I need it or just fancy it 'cause there's little rush in most studio shoots after all. No guess work involved simply touch the AF ring and the camera zooms in to check focus, you can adjust it if you need it and click. Shot done.

bobbyz wrote in post #18353160
Now I was going to try GFX50s with 120mm f4 last week but all my 3 models were out sick.

I feel your pain, hopefully the time works out soon.

Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #18353224
I feel your pain, hopefully the time works out soon.

I had borrowed the camera from a co-worker. He just put the whole pkg for sale and it went quick. I am traveling to Taiwan so couldn't respond in time. He does have Hasselblad X1D so I will try that when I am back in US.

danialsturge wrote in post #18351721
Sell both now and use the funds to buy a lens for photography animals/birds.

This would be my suggestion as well. I held onto my 60D as long as I could just so I could use my sigma 50-150. I know realize that I should have just sold them both and grabbed the Fuji 50-140 sooner.

If I could do it all again I would have just sold my whole canon kit at once and been done with it. But like you I just wasn't ready to let go of a dslr just yet.

If I had to pick one to keep then I'd keep the 5d3 just so I had one crop and one full frame.

AlanU wrote in post #18353197
In my case my Fuji produced a totally different skin texture compared to my Canon. My 5d3 was set to f/10, 1/125 and iso 200. My Fuji I had to set it to f/10, 1/125 and ISO 400 to get the same exposure. I guess this is a good example of how fuji plays with the ISO numbers (manipulated fake numbers which is common knowledge).

Canon

Looks spot on to me, but why post these real world examples when arguing a hypothetical is so much more fun?

On another note, I think the Fuji shot is out of focus.

I simply put the raw files into lightroom with ZERO correction. I imported / converted to jpg.

On the camera's LCD screen it's apparent they are different. My studio is pitch black with ZERO ambient light. This is pure light source from the Einstein studio strobe w/ 5 foot octa dome NON gridded.

All camera's in manual mode "obviously"

Am I missing something here? I noticed this immediately when I was shooting with my X-T2 and 5dmk3 simultaneously.

HEY YOU GUYS SEE 1 STOP DIFFERENCE? SORRY MY EYES ARE GETTING WORST THAN BOBBY'S


You crack me up Bobby LOL!!!


Canon 5dmk3 f/10, 1/125, ISO 200