Sony Lounge Thread MKIII (All Sony cameras welcome)

mystik610 wrote in post #18632066
It's a staple lens for me. I've had two copies, and neither have any centering issues as far as I can tell. The rendering of the Sony is something special. Very nice bokeh, which is rare for a 35.

excellent but the QC is quite bad it seems?

Canon 5dmkIII | Canon 85L 1.2 | Sigma 35mm ART 1.4|Canon 16-35mm L 2.8 |Canon 24-70mm L f2.8 | Canon 70-200mm F2.8L MK2 | Canon 430EX MK2 Flickr

| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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Puckman wrote in post #18633135
Question for y'all.

I received the A7RIII a couple of days ago. Loving it so far.

Being the lazy guy I am, I have not read through the manuals. Are there different ways to configure the dual card slots (write to one, then the other vs. use one as a backup copy to the other)?
Can the cards in both slots be of different sizes?

Nadim, Congrats on the purchase of the a7r3. Be sure to check out Mark Galer's videos on setting up your camera and custom settings. The videos are usually for both the a9 and r3.

http://www.markgaler.c​om/camera-custom-settings

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Take nothing but photos - leave nothing but footprints - break nothing but silence - kill nothing but time.

look at this comparison. I shoot Raw+Jpeg. Notice how different is the histogram on the jpeg? That's what we're seeing that's why it can fool us. Any ideas?

I turned on my DRO to LEVEL4 on this. Now I'm thinking the DRO might be the one fooling me because it's giving me a a correct jpeg preview and histogram. Did i just answered my own question? I will experience on both.

SOOC JPEG

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/27tH​vJ5 _7R37809Jpeg by timobong, on Flickr

SOOC RAW

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/26bg​tAH _7R37809raw by timobong, on Flickr

| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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Sony α7R III / ILCE-7RM3 • Sony FE 24-70mm F2.8 GM @48mm • 1/500 • f/5.6 • ISO 125

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Kmy1​Z5 DSC01919.jpg by Jon Richy, on Flickr

Canon 5dmkIII | Canon 85L 1.2 | Sigma 35mm ART 1.4|Canon 16-35mm L 2.8 |Canon 24-70mm L f2.8 | Canon 70-200mm F2.8L MK2 | Canon 430EX MK2 Flickr

vinmunoz wrote in post #18633180
look at this comparison. I shoot Raw+Jpeg. Notice how different is the histogram on the jpeg? That's what we're seeing that's why it can fool us. Any ideas?

I turned on my DRO to LEVEL4 on this. Now I'm thinking the DRO might be the one fooling me because it's giving me a a correct jpeg preview and histogram. Did i just answered my own question? I will experience on both.

SOOC JPEG

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/27tH​vJ5 _7R37809Jpeg by timobong, on Flickr

SOOC RAW

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/26bg​tAH _7R37809raw by timobong, on Flickr

AFAIK, DRO is just so it's easier to see in the field. It's basically pulling shadows SOOC for the jpeg, doesnt affect the raw.

Sony A7siii/A7iv/ZV-1 - FE 24/1.4 - SY 24/2.8 - FE 35/2.8 - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Tamron 17-28/2.8 - 28-75/2.8 - 28-200 RXD
Panasonic GH6 - Laowa 7.5/2 - PL 15/1.7 - P 42.5/1.8 - OM 75/1.8 - PL 10-25/1.7 - P 12-32 - P 14-140

| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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vinmunoz wrote in post #18633193
and because of that it fools us right? it works for the jpeg but we edit raw, the jpeg are just there as a backup.

pretty much. I use it often because I want a flatish photo show in the rear lcd, just easier to see. Just need to be aware of what's going on.

I'm thinking the flash should have been stronger? Either way, I think I would have underexposed the scene while keeping flash levels at 0.

Sony A7siii/A7iv/ZV-1 - FE 24/1.4 - SY 24/2.8 - FE 35/2.8 - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Tamron 17-28/2.8 - 28-75/2.8 - 28-200 RXD
Panasonic GH6 - Laowa 7.5/2 - PL 15/1.7 - P 42.5/1.8 - OM 75/1.8 - PL 10-25/1.7 - P 12-32 - P 14-140

| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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A7rIII | A7III | 12-24 F4 | 16-35 GM | 28-75 2.8 | 100-400 GM | 12mm 2.8 Fisheye | 35mm 2.8 | 85mm 1.8 | 35A | 85A | 200mm L F2 IS | MC-11
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AlanU wrote in post #18633162
You can't uplift shadows using the slider in LR?

At f/2.2, iso 100 on the subject a speedlight can easily supply enough light.

HSS to me is run gun as that type of lighting is NOT consistent like shooting all manual. Issue is if you want the "pop" factor you'd need to do some investment in a selection of ND filters with strobe work (limited to max flash sync) or you can buy a variable ND filter but you may need to deal with colour shift in post.

You would imagine shooting all available light should give you properly exposed background and then adjust fill flash on the subject to "taste" HSS should be that simple. I wonder if it's just some settings in camera. I just don't use my Sony setup for hired jobs like that.

The practice shot you've provided can easily be achieved with little effort with speedlight on shoe. The leaves in the focus plane displays hard light. Was the strobe in a softbox?

At f/2.2 I would have guessed the GM 85 should have decimated the trees in the background to more creamy bliss.

Did you shoot natural light as a secondary approach to these files you're submitting to the client? I do this from time to time when I feel people (client) would appreciate 2 approaches to an image look. I think available light would have uplifted the background while you concentrated on the subjects exposure with available light. Available light would have looked easier on the eyes instead of flash look.

There’s no problem fixing in post but i prefer to have it right in camera. I have to do hss because the client don’t want blownout skies but at the same time shallow DOF that’s why i’m at f2.2

The modifier used was an octabox glow parapop 38”

| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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Talley wrote in post #18633217
I’m confused.

If your metering then it won’t matter right?

Bv qj

I should do spot metering first for the sky then flash metering.

#lazytousemymeter.

| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
INSTAGRAM- WEBSITE - FACEBOOK - 500PX

vinmunoz wrote in post #18633236
Bv qj

I should do spot metering first for the sky then flash metering.

#lazytousemymeter.

Have you tried using highlight metering? It'll meter to preserve the sky...and you can dial in your light accordingly. I personally just use ETTL.

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α7ʀIV - α7ʀIII
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Sony A7siii/A7iv/ZV-1 - FE 24/1.4 - SY 24/2.8 - FE 35/2.8 - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Tamron 17-28/2.8 - 28-75/2.8 - 28-200 RXD
Panasonic GH6 - Laowa 7.5/2 - PL 15/1.7 - P 42.5/1.8 - OM 75/1.8 - PL 10-25/1.7 - P 12-32 - P 14-140

Charlie wrote in post #18633266
Killing some time this morning, made a mini time lapse.

Charlie those 30 seconds were a joy to watch...Thanks man!!

5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 85 mkII L | | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
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Sony 2 x A7iii w/ Sigma MC-11 adapter | GM16-35 f/2.8 | Sigma 24-70 ART | GM70-200 f/2.8 |Sigma Art 24 f/1.4 | Sigma ART 35 f/1.2 | FE85 f/1.8 | Sigma ART 105 f/1.4 | Godox V860iiS & V1S