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Thread started 09 Jun 2017 (Friday) 10:57
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AlanU
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May 27, 2018 10:37 |  #17041

I find that when using zebra with 100+ you still have to get about 50% of your viewfinder to have the zebra's populated to get appropriate "proper" exposure. I find you literally loose sight of what photo your taking as the zebra's gets very distracting. I've tried the zebra thing and it can literally cover your subject to the point that you cannot see small details.


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LeeRatters
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May 27, 2018 10:48 |  #17042

It would be handy (you might even be able to somehow....) if you could hold a button in to show zebras, then release it to revert to normal.

I just usually eye the histogram but zebras can sometimes be handy for landscape blown water/sky.


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vinmunoz
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Post edited 27 days ago by vinmunoz.
     
May 27, 2018 11:04 |  #17043

^that's my plan. assign a button turn zebra on and off. it's annoying

edit: i assigned C4 to toggle zebra on and off


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mystik610
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Post edited 27 days ago by mystik610. (2 edits in all)
     
May 27, 2018 11:05 |  #17044

AlanU wrote in post #18633724 (external link)
I find that when using zebra with 100+ you still have to get about 50% of your viewfinder to have the zebra's populated to get appropriate "proper" exposure. I find you literally loose sight of what photo your taking as the zebra's gets very distracting. I've tried the zebra thing and it can literally cover your subject to the point that you cannot see small details.

The point of the zebras when using the ETTR method isn't to get the proper correct in camera. It's all about getting an exposure that optimizes the dynamic range of the sensor so you have more to work with in post. You basically adjust the EC downwards until the zebras go away, and then push the exposure two stops from that point. Very often this means you're underexposing the shot by quite a bit so you can get a 'proper' exposure in post.

It's useful when shooting landscapes, but also outdoor portraits so you don't blow out the highlights in the background of a backlit scene.


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LeeRatters
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Post edited 27 days ago by LeeRatters.
     
May 27, 2018 11:08 |  #17045

I know slight zebras on camera doesn't equal blown whites in LR but I've never investigated by how much exactly.

Anyway, I've got much, MUCH more stressful things to do.... Like reorganising my camera gear from my Flipside 300 of umpteen years, into the Manfrotto Off Road 30L....!!!! :rolleyes::eek::-x:!::idea:?:-(:eek:


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vinmunoz
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May 27, 2018 11:45 |  #17046

mystik610 wrote in post #18633740 (external link)
The point of the zebras when using the ETTR method isn't to get the proper correct in camera. It's all about getting an exposure that optimizes the dynamic range of the sensor so you have more to work with in post. You basically adjust the EC downwards until the zebras go away, and then push the exposure two stops from that point. Very often this means you're underexposing the shot by quite a bit so you can get a 'proper' exposure in post.

It's useful when shooting landscapes, but also outdoor portraits so you don't blow out the highlights in the background of a backlit scene.

tested it and it works. so it's not only to hide the noise but to maximise the sensors' DR?

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mystik610
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May 27, 2018 11:48 |  #17047

vinmunoz wrote in post #18633755 (external link)
tested it and it works. so it's not only to hide the noise but to maximise the sensors' DR?

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Yeah. Since shadows have more head-room for recovery than highlights, its a method of finding the boundaries of the highlights so you preserve as much tonal detail as possible.


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mystik610
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May 27, 2018 11:49 |  #17048

LeeRatters wrote in post #18633741 (external link)
I know slight zebras on camera doesn't equal blown whites in LR but I've never investigated by how much exactly.

Anyway, I've got much, MUCH more stressful things to do.... Like reorganising my camera gear from my Flipside 300 of umpteen years, into the Manfrotto Off Road 30L....!!!! :rolleyes::eek::-x:!::idea:?:-(:eek:

Fred tested it for us. zebras = two stops from blown highlights :-)


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AlanU
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May 27, 2018 11:54 |  #17049

mystik610 wrote in post #18633740 (external link)
The point of the zebras when using the ETTR method isn't to get the proper correct in camera. It's all about getting an exposure that optimizes the dynamic range of the sensor so you have more to work with in post. You basically adjust the EC downwards until the zebras go away, and then push the exposure two stops from that point. Very often this means you're underexposing the shot by quite a bit so you can get a 'proper' exposure in post.

It's useful when shooting landscapes, but also outdoor portraits so you don't blow out the highlights in the background of a backlit scene.

Really?

I was only playing with zebra's when I added it to my "star" menu. I just noted that I had to get 50% of my viewfinder with zebra's (100+) filled to get proper looking exposure.

I haven't used this type of function before so I have not found the need for it.

2 stops under exposed in good light isn't a big deal for this sensor. I do find that my brain is wrapped up in getting the exposure very close to perfect when I shoot though. Typically analyzing most of my images in the past year I've really yet to encounter a time when I feel I needed better dynamic range than what I already have in my camera bodies.

I think I'll try to incorporate zebras for experimentation. I'm all for trying new things.

I have flash on my camera often as I know when to spit out some fill flash. I ride FEC and ETTL just like you. I seldom ever miss a shot casually or for hired events.


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vinmunoz
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May 27, 2018 11:58 |  #17050

mystik610 wrote in post #18633758 (external link)
Fred tested it for us. zebras = two stops from blown highlights :-)

so Carlo if you're using strobe or flash in ETTL, we'll just do -2FEC?


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May 27, 2018 12:07 |  #17051

it's actually not as complicated. dial the exposure until you see the zebra and back it down until it's gone and add 6 clicks(2stops) on your ISO and that's it.


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Post edited 27 days ago by KenjiS. (2 edits in all)
     
May 27, 2018 15:13 |  #17052

After lots of thinking I think I'm going to try to get the A7III with 55mm f/1.8 Zeiss and the 90mm f/2.8 Macro..

I like the Zeiss for walkaround and ive liked the color and rendition ive seen from it, its also a good wider option for the corgis and actually might work better for a group shot (its sometimes honestly easier to just shoot loose and crop...)

The Macro because i do a lot of macro shooting and i just dont trust converting my 100L over, i use AF for macro frequently (Read, almost always/constantly) It will double im hoping for portraits of the corgis as well. Plus FoV wise its wider than the 100L is and its the same as the 45mm f/2.8 Macro-Elmarit i used to have on the GX8. I've heard the 90mm Sony isnt a slouch at focusing either, especially on the A7III/A9 despite being a macro lens, and f/2.8 on Full Frame is equal to f/2 on my 50mm Sigmalux which is where i usually shoot it when im doing portraits of Luna.

The 85mm f/1.8 is awesome, but also cheapish and easier to get the money together to add later


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May 27, 2018 16:56 |  #17053

KenjiS wrote in post #18633879 (external link)
After lots of thinking I think I'm going to try to get the A7III with 55mm f/1.8 Zeiss and the 90mm f/2.8 Macro..

I like the Zeiss for walkaround and ive liked the color and rendition ive seen from it, its also a good wider option for the corgis and actually might work better for a group shot (its sometimes honestly easier to just shoot loose and crop...)

The Macro because i do a lot of macro shooting and i just dont trust converting my 100L over, i use AF for macro frequently (Read, almost always/constantly) It will double im hoping for portraits of the corgis as well. Plus FoV wise its wider than the 100L is and its the same as the 45mm f/2.8 Macro-Elmarit i used to have on the GX8. I've heard the 90mm Sony isnt a slouch at focusing either, especially on the A7III/A9 despite being a macro lens, and f/2.8 on Full Frame is equal to f/2 on my 50mm Sigmalux which is where i usually shoot it when im doing portraits of Luna.

The 85mm f/1.8 is awesome, but also cheapish and easier to get the money together to add later

I love both my FE 55 f1.8 and FE 90G macro lenses. In fact, I use my FE 90 more than any lens I own.

Here's a photo I took this morning using my FE 90;

My Early Birds are doing well so far.

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Puckman
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May 27, 2018 18:08 |  #17054

Anyone here use a USB charging bank kind of thing to power the A7R3 in a pinch? I'd like to have something like that on hand for my upcoming trip.
Any recommendations?


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May 27, 2018 22:09 |  #17055

Took a while to edit this one but I'm pleased with how it turned out. Magical scene at Woodlawn Lake.

Loxia 21

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