Sony Lounge Thread MKIII (All Sony cameras welcome)

digital_AM wrote in post #18420287
David, I haven't confirmed this myself but I believe their return policy for used gear is the same as new. That's awesome you're getting the Loxia 21. What changed your mind?

Thanks Alfredo, I think Charlie was saying the same thing on the B&H return policy. The 9+ used ones come at a $250+ savings over new.

I originally chose the Batis 18mm and 25mm last November specifically to complete some paid projects for VisitKC. They wanted a lot of street captures, so I prioritized the need for autofocus as a helpful tool in capturing the life-on-the-streets images they wanted. AF is hardly necessary for street work, but it can be helpful. And the Batis lenses performed marvelously for me: very very happy with the results.

This year, though, I (grudgingly) made the decision going forward to decline more on-demand contract work offers. I mostly prefer just to do my own thing (which is still somewhat profitable). So, now unencumbered from paid contract work concerns, I just want the lens I've long regarded as the ultimate wide-angle e-mount landscape/cityscape lens.

I still think the Batis lenses are fantastic! Absolutely planning to keep my wonderful 85mm and 135mm, but the Loxias have that extra special sauce of additional microcontrast that makes images extra special.

i think a 21 mm is just about right as an UWA for me too.

vinmunoz wrote in post #18420316
i think a 21 mm is just about right as an UWA for me too.

The Tokina Firin 20mm is another consideration; pretty amazing for the price. Guy on FM raved about it. $800 brand new.

https://www.roberthcla​rkphotography.com …-tokina-firin-20mm-f20-mf

I want that Zeiss microcontrast and Loxia sunstars, but the Tokina holds up well against the Loxia in sharpness from what I've read and seen.

Speaking of AF. I'm primarily a landscape guy, so my AF needs mostly revolve around finding the right spot in my composition to focus on. Never an issue.

Since I went and got myself some of that Godox lighting equipment (speedlight, softbox, etc), I decided to take a stab at homegrown portraiture (meaning, headshots of myself or the significant other).
That lead me to a rather hugely frustrating realization tonight: The A7R2 does not do a great job AFing in interior lighting conditions. Or maybe there are some tricks that I don't know about (Those of you shooting portraits, please speak up).
I tried both the FE 85/1.8 and the FE 70-200/4, in a reasonably well lit room (ceiling light in the room and in the adjoining room). The camera struggled to find AF on almost every single shot. AF-C with eye-AF was a no go. Refused to lock completely. AF-S seemed to hit once every 3 or 4 attempts. But given the subject was not fully stationary (head movements), very few shots ended up with sharp focus on the eyes. Those that did were incredibly sharp. But overall, very frustrating.
What am I doing wrong? Is it the lenses? My camera settings? Does the A9 do a better job in after hours lighting?

Puckman wrote in post #18420326
Speaking of AF. I'm primarily a landscape guy, so my AF needs mostly revolve around finding the right spot in my composition to focus on. Never an issue.

Since I went and got myself some of that Godox lighting equipment (speedlight, softbox, etc), I decided to take a stab at homegrown portraiture (meaning, headshots of myself or the significant other).
That lead me to a rather hugely frustrating realization tonight: The A7R2 does not do a great job AFing in interior lighting conditions. Or maybe there are some tricks that I don't know about (Those of you shooting portraits, please speak up).
I tried both the FE 85/1.8 and the FE 70-200/4, in a reasonably well lit room (ceiling light in the room and in the adjoining room). The camera struggled to find AF on almost every single shot. AF-C with eye-AF was a no go. Refused to lock completely. AF-S seemed to hit once every 3 or 4 attempts. But given the subject was not fully stationary (head movements), very few shots ended up with sharp focus on the eyes. Those that did were incredibly sharp. But overall, very frustrating.
What am I doing wrong? Is it the lenses? My camera settings? Does the A9 do a better job in after hours lighting?

If you're using the latest firmware, set live view to off. This will allow the lens to focus wide open and greatly improve AF when shooting studio type shots where you're underexposing the ambient by a lot.

mystik610 wrote in post #18420331
If you're using the latest firmware, set live view to off. This will allow the lens to focus wide open and greatly improve AF when shooting studio type shots where you're underexposing the ambient by a lot.

I am indeed on the latest firmware. But I am not sure i understand. I have the camera set to have the auto switching from LCD to viewfinder. Typically, when I am focusing, the camera is up to my eye and therefore is not in viewfinder mode. Would that work? Or does the LCD need to be off completely?

i think Carlo means turning off Live View which make the EVF or LCD act like an optical view finder.

Oh. I see what you mean. Turn off the live effect. I am pretty sure I have that off all the time. So, do you folks have better luck AFing than I have? I'm wondering whether this is normal...
Also, I'm starting to develop some A9 gas...

i don't really have that big of a problem with AF even with the 85GM which is a known slow on AF.

Puckman wrote in post #18420335
Oh. I see what you mean. Turn off the live effect. I am pretty sure I have that off all the time. So, do you folks have better luck AFing than I have? I'm wondering whether this is normal...
Also, I'm starting to develop some A9 gas...

Well when live view setting is set to "on" the lens will focus at the set aperture. Since you're usually stopping down for dof and setting the iso at 100 for studio shots, this means the AF system isn't getting enough light to see the subject....this is why you're having issues focusing. If you set live view effect to "off" then the aperture will open up to focus and the AF system will have more light to work with.

A9 does focus a lot better in low light, but the a7RII does fine in the studio now after the firmware update.

First time plying the a6500 with the FE90 and some tubes. Super lightweight macro rig.
As always using tubes and the DOF plummets but I can't get this detail in the field without them
and I got bored stacking dead subjects....part of the field work is the hunt (minus the Yellow Jackets
who enjoy a whole can of killing spray once I found out where their burrow was).

yah hunting them and capturing is part of the fun.

for a dead insects though how do you do it? i read before someone saying catch them, place in a jar and freeze them in the freezer. can you share how you do it?

David Arbogast wrote in post #18420304
Thanks Alfredo, I think Charlie was saying the same thing on the B&H return policy. The 9+ used ones come at a $250+ savings over new.

I originally chose the Batis 18mm and 25mm last November specifically to complete some paid projects for VisitKC. They wanted a lot of street captures, so I prioritized the need for autofocus as a helpful tool in capturing the life-on-the-streets images they wanted. AF is hardly necessary for street work, but it can be helpful. And the Batis lenses performed marvelously for me: very very happy with the results.

This year, though, I (grudgingly) made the decision going forward to decline more on-demand contract work offers. I mostly prefer just to do my own thing (which is still somewhat profitable). So, now unencumbered from paid contract work concerns, I just want the lens I've long regarded as the ultimate wide-angle e-mount landscape/cityscape lens.

I still think the Batis lenses are fantastic! Absolutely planning to keep my wonderful 85mm and 135mm, but the Loxias have that extra special sauce of additional microcontrast that makes images extra special.

Its an incredible lens..... you will be amazed

Ummmm and BOOM just like that, with the help of good friends


I am on a trip to Jackson Hole Wyoming....... oh yeah on the 21st.


Now for the guy who said he didnt want to shoot the eclipse ..... I better study up

Vinz, back when I'd kill an insect in preparation for stacking I used ethyl acetate.
I have a killing jar where the chemical is inside a small cup with perforated lid so the fumes
get the insect in the jar but no direct contact.

There is a whole science/practise of 'grooming' insects for super macro photography, down to
even cleaning their hair, hydrating their eyes; and a whole list of chemicals for each step.

The stacking itself I use a StackShot rail.....back in the Canon days....will work with any camera though.
The challenge in super macro stacking is light (of course, isn't light always the challenge). I've not
stacked a dead specimen with the Sony kit---again me enjoying it more to go out in the weeds and do
my best. It just became not a challenge to shoot the dead.