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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Sony Digital Cameras 
Thread started 09 Jun 2017 (Friday) 10:57
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mystik610
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Post edited over 3 years ago by mystik610. (2 edits in all)
     
Jan 16, 2020 10:07 |  #36511

bobbyz wrote in post #18992945 (external link)
Need some help. I am not getting in focus eyes. I have tried Sony 85mm f1.8, Sigma 105mm f1.4, Tamron 28-75mm. Here are my settings? Do I need to change things? Any tips/suggestions much appreciated.

Focus Mode (C3 button default) - AF-C
Focus Area (C2 button) - Tracking Flexible Spot M
AF with Shutter Button - OFF (use AF-ON instead)
Pre-AF - OFF
Eye Start AF - I thought this is always ON by default, isn't it?
Eye AF by Custom Key - Not Using
Switch Left/Right Eye - Set to AEL
AF Tracking Sensitivity - 3 - Standard
Priority Set in AF-S - Focus
Priority Set in AF-C - Focus
Aperture Drive in AF - Standard
Face/Eye Priority in AF - On

Last shoot, I saw green ||[]|| in the center of the frame. Then small square for the eye, I assume eye AF working fine but eyes not in focus. Focus looks more on the chest than the eye. What settings you use for kids, people shots?

Set eye-AF to a custom button and turn face detect off. Eye-AF via the standard AF button is great in the right circumstances but I do think at times it jumps off the eyes too easily in order for the focus to not outright fail. Dedicated eye-AF will does not revert to other focus modes when it cant find the eye and it will outright fail to focus more frequently if your subjects are moving, but it is more critically accurate.

So I've settled for posed portraiture, I always use the dedicated eye-AF button. For documentary type shooting, I'll use the standard BBF with a live tracking AF point.


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TRhoads
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Jan 16, 2020 10:18 |  #36512

mystik610 wrote in post #18992959 (external link)
Set eye-AF to a custom button and turn face detect off. Eye-AF via the standard AF button is great in the right circumstances but I do think at times it jumps off the eyes too easily in order for the focus to not outright fail. Dedicated eye-AF will does not revert to other focus modes when it cant find the eye and it will outright fail to focus more frequently if your subjects are moving, but it is more critically accurate.

So I've settled for posed portraiture, I always use the dedicated eye-AF button. For documentary type shooting, I'll use the standard BBF with a live tracking AF point.

I am much the same...on the a9 that BBF is Eye-AF and standard face detect and all other types is the shutter button.


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TRhoads
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Jan 16, 2020 10:45 |  #36513

Bill in Texas wrote in post #18992389 (external link)
Apparently I have been. I assume I set it up that way when I got the camera and watched someone's video on setup. How does auto work? Only e shutter when shooting silent or live view?

Not realizing this setting on the a9 is different than the R3 answers a number of questions for me.

try this one...I just did it with files from this week on my r2...
http://tools.science.s​i/ (external link)

came in at 55K+....


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Bianchi
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Post edited over 3 years ago by Bianchi. (2 edits in all)
     
Jan 16, 2020 11:28 |  #36514

TRhoads wrote in post #18992776 (external link)
As many times as I have been out to shoot sunset...and as many times as I have preached the concept of stick around...this one caught me off guard...I had been shooting for 45 minutes...the sky had really mellowed out and looked like it was over...I was shooting looking east catching some really nice pastel blues and pinks but not loving it...turned around to head in and saw this...I nearly dropped the gear in amazement...this was shot at 5:51...26 minutes past sunset...it was incredible...

Hosted photo: posted by TRhoads in
./showthread.php?p=189​92776&i=i55211407
forum: Sony Digital Cameras

I find in my part of the world that sounds about normal, usually 30-45 minutes before Sunrise and about 30-45 minutes after the Sun sets comes the before and after glow. Always much better than shooting the big bright sun coming up or going down, unless you are using filters. My preference is the before and after glow.

The most interesting is when its dark and gloomy, and when just some colors come between the dark clouds and peak through.. Its when you say I'm not going to shoot, as it look likes its going to rain.


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Bill ­ in ­ Texas
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Jan 16, 2020 11:35 |  #36515

TRhoads wrote in post #18992978 (external link)
try this one...I just did it with files from this week on my r2...
http://tools.science.s​i/ (external link)

came in at 55K+....

Thanks, Travis. The other two worked fine once I started using the mechanical shutter. I'll save the link though.


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Jan 16, 2020 13:23 |  #36516

Bill in Texas wrote in post #18992997 (external link)
Thanks, Travis. The other two worked fine once I started using the mechanical shutter. I'll save the link though.

I have not tried it with the a9 that has been primarily used in eshutter... will this weekend.


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bobbyz
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Jan 16, 2020 16:08 |  #36517

TRhoads wrote in post #18992965 (external link)
I am much the same...on the a9 that BBF is Eye-AF and standard face detect and all other types is the shutter button.

So I have BBF (AF-ON), Face/Eye detect ON. My Focus Area is Tracking Flexible Spot M, some suggest I should change to Wide. Shutter button no AF. So I should be nailing eyes all the time but I don't. Of course not A9 but Sony suppose to be much better eye AF than Fuji. My GFX50s nailed more shots so trying to see if my technique or a camera issue.


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bobbyz
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Jan 16, 2020 16:10 |  #36518

mystik610 wrote in post #18992959 (external link)
Set eye-AF to a custom button and turn face detect off. Eye-AF via the standard AF button is great in the right circumstances but I do think at times it jumps off the eyes too easily in order for the focus to not outright fail. Dedicated eye-AF will does not revert to other focus modes when it cant find the eye and it will outright fail to focus more frequently if your subjects are moving, but it is more critically accurate.

So I've settled for posed portraiture, I always use the dedicated eye-AF button. For documentary type shooting, I'll use the standard BBF with a live tracking AF point.

You mean dedicated button for eye AF. So pressing it always engage eye AF. What focus area you use? You mind sharing settings of your camera if and when you have some free time. Thanks in advance.


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Fuji GFX50s, 23mm f4, 32-64mm, 45mm f2.8, 110mm f2, 120mm f4 macro
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Jan 16, 2020 16:36 |  #36519

I do the same ,, dedicated button for eye af..

or as was already said, its like the camera gives up too quickly on eye aF and just goes for face or what ever else.

if you set it to a dedicated button the eye af is a lot more tenacious


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Jan 16, 2020 17:09 |  #36520

I joined a 52 week photography challenge. This week's challenge is Wabi Sabi. Wabi Sabi is a Japanese concept that more or less translates into the art of finding beauty in imperfection. It celebrates wrinkles, rust, liver spots, cracks and frayed edges because they represent the time that has passed and the signs of a lived life. I took this photo today in a run down town ironically named Bliss.


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bobbyz
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Post edited over 3 years ago by bobbyz. (4 edits in all)
     
Jan 16, 2020 17:29 |  #36521

rantercsr wrote in post #18993125 (external link)
I do the same ,, dedicated button for eye af..

or as was already said, its like the camera gives up too quickly on eye aF and just goes for face or what ever else.

if you set it to a dedicated button the eye af is a lot more tenacious

But I though A7rIV has this real time tracking so I shouldn't need to have a dedicated button for eye-AF. I see eye-AF green square showing up perfectly on the eyes. I can switch Left/Right eye with AEL button but the resulting shots are just not as good as Fuji. To me if camera nailed eye AF, I should have very nice focused eyes. It can not be the MPs as I am used to GFX50s giving me super sharp results at f1.6 (FF equivalent) using contrast based face detect.

Edited:- I will test more, just need better weather and some time on the weekend. I can see what you guys saying could be happening. The green ||[]|| is on the chest, then I see small green on the eyes but it seems focus is on the chest not the eyes. So far I have Sony 85mm f1.8, Sigma 105mm f1.4 and now tamron 28-75mm. It can't be the lens. Either me or some setting. I like customization but man Fuji's implementation is much simpler. I only select face/eye detect ON and that's it.


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Jan 16, 2020 17:43 |  #36522

just some randomness..

first one is kind of Nick Carver inspired.. (youtuber/photographer​).. although I certainly didn't take the time to do what he does . it was more of a scouting shot..(taken on the way to work) when the sun comes up, the lighting on that street can be really nice and warm.

I plan to attempt to use his style as inspiratation/ motivation this year

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IMAGE: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49396033693_6f51700c91_h.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2ifX​zTk  (external link) DSC01106-Edit (external link) by Randall Herrera (external link), on Flickr

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Jan 16, 2020 17:52 |  #36523

Whatever falls into my hands goes under my macro lens.

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AlanU
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Jan 16, 2020 18:01 |  #36524

bobbyz wrote in post #18993154 (external link)
But I though A7rIV has this real time tracking so I shouldn't need to have a dedicated button for eye-AF. I see eye-AF green square showing up perfectly on the eyes. I can switch Left/Right eye with AEL button but the resulting shots are just not as good as Fuji. To me if camera nailed eye AF, I should have very nice focused eyes. It can not be the MPs as I am used to GFX50s giving me super sharp results at f1.6 (FF equivalent) using contrast based face detect.

Edited:- I will test more, just need better weather and some time on the weekend. I can see what you guys saying could be happening. The green ||[]|| is on the chest, then I see small green on the eyes but it seems focus is on the chest not the eyes. So far I have Sony 85mm f1.8, Sigma 105mm f1.4 and now tamron 28-75mm. It can't be the lens. Either me or some setting. I like customization but man Fuji's implementation is much simpler. I only select face/eye detect ON and that's it.

With my A73 I turn the face detect off. I use the dedicated eye AF button. This method locks on the eyes very well.

Other times I use the same focus with flexible spot - medium and use focus hold. I find it's like almost using the focus / recompose technique I typically use with my Canon mirrored bodies.

The GFX probably is more ideal for your style of photography. I would assume you're mind is jumping between your love of Fuji and struggles in adapting to Sony.

I'll say I'm not having any issues with my Sony system after struggling for a year +. Currently I am much accustomed to Sony AF system and eye AF for what I shoot. I get no issues with my Sigma 105 f/1.4. I will assure you if I did ....you'd hear me complain with no hesitation!! I love the IQ from that lens and NO AF issues whatsoever. I also have ZERO issue shooting with the Sigma 35 f/1.2. I dont love the 35mm focal length but I love that lens too!!!!!

I know I'll get a Fuji again one day but definitely not the aps-c system. I'd be interested in the Fuji large format system. If that doesn't happen I'll be jumping into an additional Canon FF mirrorless system when they make better bodies.

Since I have zero interest in Video my life is extremely simple jumping onto any system.


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rantercsr
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Jan 16, 2020 18:20 |  #36525

I will say I still do get some misses with people wearing hats or women with bangs..

though a lot better with the r4/73 as comparted to the r3


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