tspencer1 wrote in post #18379146
22 sec. ago | #1
Does anyone have experience/advice for using brands other than Canon speedlites? I am looking at this one in particular [YN-685]
A few years ago, Yongnuo was a great choice. Today, Godox is probably better. The first of three main reasons is that Yongnuo's triggering systems (60x/560, 622, -RT) are all more or less incompatible with each other. Mixing TTL and manual-only gear is a pain. And while you can fire everything together, you basically go lowest-common-denominator and turn your TTL/HSS capable lights into manual-only lights to do that. With Godox, you can mix TTL and manual-only gear and it's all in the same triggering system, you retain TTL features on TTL-capable lights, and everything works with HSS.
As an example. If you buy a YN-685, the best trigger you can use it with is probably a YN-622-TX (the screen makes it easier to operate than a 622 transceiver). There is no flash with a built-in transmitter in the 622 system yet, so adding on-camera light requires using a 622's passthrough hotshoe. And if you want to add lights in that system, you either get more YN-685s, or you get Canon eTTL-capable flashes and add YN-622s to the foot. A YN-685 is $100. You can't add a YN-660 or YN-560IV directly to this setup. The receiver in this only works with the RF-60x triggers, or a YN-560-TX, or a YN-560IV/YN-660 as the master. You can set off 622s by putting them into 603 mode, but then they won't have TTL/HSS capabilities. On the Godox side of the fence, you can blow $120 on a TT685, and $50 on an X1T-C. And then add $70 TT600s into your setup. You'll still have HSS over the TT685, and you'll have HSS over the TT600s, and remote power control over everything. And the TT685 has a built in transceiver, so you can also use it directly as a master unit.
That's not to say Godox is fault-free. The UI/UX of the YN 622 system is better--particularly if you shoot with a pre-2012 Canon body, since they fake up Gr mode for you. You also have zoom control over individual groups. But. Weighed against HSS, and control over Godox's bigger lights (AD200, AD360II, AD600), this may not be worth it. The second reason you'll want to consider Godox is that they offer larger lights than speedlights, so there's a clearer upgrade path that still uses the same triggering system and gives you remote manual control and HSS over all lights.
The third reason to go Godox is that they're expanding TTL/HSS support from Canon/Nikon/Sony to micro four-thirds and Fuji X. So if you ever plan to add mirrorless to your gear, you won't have to rebuy the lights; just add new transmitters. (See Flash Havoc overview of the Godox system
).
Any disadvantages to using non-Canon brands?
The main disadvantages come from the fact that cheap Chinese gear is a) made in China (so getting warranty service typically means shipping the unit back to Shenzhen. At which point, you've effectively totaled a lot of the speedlights). Buying from a retailer that offers a warranty or good return policy (e.g., B&H, Adorama, CheetahStand) can help ease the pain if you get a lemon in the copy lottery (see point c).
b) It's usually reverse-engineered, so that certain functions aren't identical in performance with OEM units (TTL consistency, AF assist functions) or aren't available (lever locks, ID codes, etc.) and backwards/forwards compatibility may not be great. Reverse-engineering typically means some bits of the system are still black boxes of I/O, with no idea of how the internals are designed or likely to change in the future. Reverse-engineered gear tends to work great with the system as it stands now. Not so great with how it was 10 years ago or will be in 10 years. Getting a flash with a firmware upgrade capability can ease future-compatibility fears. But as an example, I have a Yongnuo YN-586EX (Canon). It works great on the hotshoe of my 50D. If I put it on the hotshoe of my Powershot G9, it won't fire. And it won't communicate with the camera at all. My 580EXII, otoh, works just fine on my G9 and can even have its power level set through the P&S's menus. It clearly has a variant of the EOS hotshoe. Just my personal opinion, but for heavy on-camera event run'n'gun usage, a used OEM may be a better purchase than a TTL-capable 3rd-party cheapie. But 3rd-party cheapies are better suited and more able than OEM flashes for off-camera use.
c) The low-low price has to come from somewhere, and that somewhere is most likely going to be in the rigor of QA practices. This doesn't mean you'll get a bad unit. Just that the consistency from copy-to-copy of assembly and components (where they're relying on other cheap Chinese manufacturers who are probably skimping on QA as well) may vary more widely than with OEM units. Some folks have great luck. Some folks have lousy luck. The anecdotes are thick and fast on messageboards. If you're a hobbyist shooter, though, the money you save can be worth it just to get spares or to treat these as disposable items. For professional shooters, where hard wear and reliability count for more, it may not.