Yongnuo YN24EX twin flash user experience

I've had the Yongnuo YN24EX twin flash for about a month and a half now. I had the Canon MT24EX since about 2007-8, but it stopped working the other years, and I got it back from the official Canon repair agents saying too uneconomical to repair. In fact the basic service charge I was quoted for the repair without any parts was more expensive than the Yongnuou YN24EX cost new. I've long thought that electronic flashes were grossly overpriced. A flash contains fairly standard electronic components in a cheap plastic body (even the top flashes) and there's little to justify the cost of the expensive flashes. You could buy nearly 7 YN24EX flashes for the price of one MT24EX. From what I've read most longer term users of the MT24EX have had problems with this flash, and it's cheaper to get a YN24EX than get it repaired.

So how does the YN24EX perform? The answer is so far very well. In sheer performance terms the YN24EX has been every bit as good as the MT24EX, and the way I use it, it has been even better (the focusing lights are brighter with two different settings). The only technical mark down is that the YN24EX does not do high speed synch, which I've never really used as the long burn flash duration means you lose the motion freezing virtual high speed shutter effect of flash.

I've found that I have to sometimes use FEC (flash exposure compensation) with the various flash diffusers I've been using, but this is the same with any flash, and aside from that the exposures seem very reliable once you have got the FEC right. That's more than I can say for the MT24EX and 40D, where the E-TTL was anything but reliable. So far I've used the YN24EX on an 80D, 70D, and 600D without any problems. I've also had a Yongnuo YN14EX for over 2 years, which I bought just after my MT24EX was declared too uneconomic to repair and it is still working and the only problems I've had with it are that it only works intermittently on the 70D, and not at all on the 80D. But it works fine on my old 40D and 600D. Obviously the problem is the back-engineered interface, and that the 70D and 80D came out after the flash was designed.

As I mentioned the focusing lights, which are LEDs are good and bright. With my concave diffusers the light was bright enough than when moth trapping I could use the focusing lights like a torch making it very useful for night time macro photography. You can set it so the focusing lights come on with a dab of the shutter button.

The bracket that comes with YN24EX is larger in diameter than the MT24EX bracket. It attaches to the lens with adapter rings identical to Cokin P filter adapters and therefore can be adapted to a wide range of filter threads, greater than the range which come with the flash. The advantage is the YN24EX bracket lifts the flash heads up higher, and the disadvantage is that the adapter protrudes more below, although it is squared off like the MT24EX bracket to increase clearance. The good news is that the flash heads not only fit the MT24EX bracket, but click into place on it just like the MT24EX heads.

I've been using a version of my concave diffusers (inverted plastic domes), which are actually taken from my MT24EX adapters. They attach to the flash heads with a tube made of off embossed mylar reflective sheet, with self-adhesive velcro tape. The diffusers have a disk of diffuser gel stuck on with super glue (which caused the extra frosting on the inside you can see). I've attached a photo of a shiny subject, a Ladybird to give an impression of the light I can get with this set-up. This one was taken with the Canon 100mm f2.8 L IS lens with a Raynox DCR-250 clipped to the MT24EX bracket. I still have the MP-E 65mm, but if I am only carrying one macro lens around I take either the EF-S 60mm with a set of extension tubes or the 100mm L with a DCR-250 and MSN-202 with clip on holders. Which I take depends on what I'm shooting. The 100mm L is best for handholding with natural light, and the EF-S 60mm is lighter, plus with an extension tube bridges the gap where a normal macro lens' magnification ends, and the MP-E's magnification begins. It's useful on a crop body where you are photographing say hoverflies but are also likely to encounter butterflies.

Just for the record I have no association with Yongnuo and bought both their flashes myself.

This just illustrates how the diffusers attach. It also shows the DCR-250 on the Canon 100mm L. You get up to about 2x life-size with this an getting on for 4x life-size with the MSN-202

I've got the YN24Ex as well and am quite happy with it. What type of plastic domes do you use for your diffusors? I'm still looking for ways to improve diffusion on mine.

Michael456 wrote in post #18390555
I've got the YN24Ex as well and am quite happy with it. What type of plastic domes do you use for your diffusors? I'm still looking for ways to improve diffusion on mine.

These were from a roll on fabric stain remover, but they were taken from my old MT24EX diffusers so are old ones. In the past I've found suitable plastic domes from roll on deodorants. What you're looking for is translucent neutral coloured plastic dome. It is just a matter of looking around your local supermarket. However, the design of the packing is always changing.

The simplest way of diffusing light from a twin flash is a curved end of lens light tent made out of diffuser gel, vellum paper, white foam packing paper. Initially I use white plastic cups of the type used for water coolers and vending machines. There's some illustrations on this old thread. The main disadvantage of this type of diffuser which gives excellent lighting is that you have to put it over the top of your subject. It takes a bit of practise to be able to do this with a live insect, but it can be done.
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1324499

Does the Sto-Fen OM-24XSET fit the YN24EX? How well does it work on the Canon flash?

Thanks for the review, worth keeping in mind if my Canon one dies.

Good to know about the Yongnuo twin light. Thanks for the info. Having LED focusing lights should be a big advantage.

Question about the YN24EX - when the heads are mounted on the sides of the dummy flash head, as in the illustration, can they be rotated down to point directly to a subject that is approx 6 inches from the front of the lens?

There aren't many pictures around showing how this flash can be used.

FPP wrote in post #18390896
Does the Sto-Fen OM-24XSET fit the YN24EX? How well does it work on the Canon flash?

The Sto-Fens for the MT24EX don't fit on the YN24EX. I have a set and I just tried them.

I never found the Sto-Fen diffusers particular effective on the Canon MT24EX, and rated them only slightly better than the bare heads. You you do just as well taping a piece of diffuser gel, vellum paper, white foam etc in front of the flash. This is not just speculation but I proved it with tests.

These are test images from 2009. When it says cup diffuser here, it doesn't mean the end of lens type cup diffuser. I made a mini version of John Hallmen's beauty dish type diffuser housing it in a cut off styrafoam cup which fitted over the Canon MT24EX head. Whilst this latter diffuser gave good diffusion, the position of the block was absolutely critical, and just a small movement meant light leaked around it. This is why I came up with the idea of using inverted plastic domes, which are much better.

Archibald wrote in post #18390967
Question about the YN24EX - when the heads are mounted on the sides of the dummy flash head, as in the illustration, can they be rotated down to point directly to a subject that is approx 6 inches from the front of the lens?

There aren't many pictures around showing how this flash can be used.

Hosted photo: posted by Archibald in
./showthread.php?p=183​90967&i=i80746342
forum: Macro

I've never used the flash in this orientation. So I just tried it, and yes the flash heads can be angled down as they rotate. However, for macro photography I'd recommend mounting the flash heads on the end of the lens or getting them as close to the subject as possible. The closer a reflector or diffuser is to the subject, the bigger the relative size of the reflector or diffuser is, and the better the light quality.

One thing I forgot to mention. With the supplied flash bracket on my unit it rotates a bit too easily for my liking. It will hold the heads in position, just, but you only have to very lightly touch it to rotate it. The Canon MT24EX bracket is much firmer, plus it just clips directly onto the grove on the front of Canon macro lenses (the MP-E 65mm, EF-S 60mm f2.8 and Canon 100mm f2.8 USM - but on the Canon 100mm f2.8 L IS you need a separate adapter ring). I don't know if this lose locking is just my unit, but it could probably be solved by putting tape round the Yongnuo adapter rings - I haven't tried it because I am using the Canon MT24EX bracket most of the time (I already had the 72C adapter for my Sigma 150mm, and just got a 72mm-67mm stepping ring to screw it on to my Canon 100mm L).

This is not a big problem because before I got the stepping ring so I could use my 72C adapter and therefore the Canon MT24EX bracket, I was using the supplied Yonguo bracket with the 100mm L. I could use it in the field fine, but a slight nudge and the head would rotate.

SteB wrote in post #18391153
I've never used the flash in this orientation. So I just tried it, and yes the flash heads can be angled down as they rotate. However, for macro photography I'd recommend mounting the flash heads on the end of the lens or getting them as close to the subject as possible. The closer a reflector or diffuser is to the subject, the bigger the relative size of the reflector or diffuser is, and the better the light quality.

I would use the Yongnuo two ways -

1) As you suggest, heads mounted on the lens, with the heads sitting well above the lens actually. The lamps impinge on a diffuser mounted on the lens and between the lights and the subject. This arrangement would mostly be for use with the MP-E 65mm.

2) Lights mounted high and on either side of the flash head as in the illustration, with the lights pointing down, illuminating a diffuser evenly. The diffuser is fan-shaped and mounted on the lens. I would use this with the 100mm L. I currently use this setup, but with the Canon 580EX directed somewhat downwards. It works great, but if I could get light to the diffuser more directly, it might allow me to set the flash to a lower power, and that can have some advantages.

I understand now. This type of diffuser is particularly effective, and I've lit mine with a hotshoe flash. The spread of light helps as it means more of the diffuser is being lit. I hadn't thought of using the YN24EX like that, but it would be very effective as you can direct the flash down (I use a bounce card to deflect the light down when using this sort of diffuser with an ordinary hotshoe flash (either a 270EX or 430EX). You wouldn't need a bounce card with the YN24EX and the heads mounted on the side. Thanks for the idea, as I'll give it a go.

SteB wrote in post #18391251
I understand now. This type of diffuser is particularly effective, and I've lit mine with a hotshoe flash. The spread of light helps as it means more of the diffuser is being lit. I hadn't thought of using the YN24EX like that, but it would be very effective as you can direct the flash down (I use a bounce card to deflect the light down when using this sort of diffuser with an ordinary hotshoe flash (either a 270EX or 430EX). You wouldn't need a bounce card with the YN24EX and the heads mounted on the side. Thanks for the idea, as I'll give it a go.

Yeah, I use a snoot to help direct the light. But direct illumination would probably be better.

SteB wrote in post #18391150
The Sto-Fens for the MT24EX don't fit on the YN24EX. I have a set and I just tried them.

I never found the Sto-Fen diffusers particular effective on the Canon MT24EX, and rated them only slightly better than the bare heads. You you do just as well taping a piece of diffuser gel, vellum paper, white foam etc in front of the flash. This is not just speculation but I proved it with tests.

These are test images from 2009. When it says cup diffuser here, it doesn't mean the end of lens type cup diffuser. I made a mini version of John Hallmen's beauty dish type diffuser housing it in a cut off styrafoam cup which fitted over the Canon MT24EX head. Whilst this latter diffuser gave good diffusion, the position of the block was absolutely critical, and just a small movement meant light leaked around it. This is why I came up with the idea of using inverted plastic domes, which are much better.

Sto-Fen diffusers work for ordinary flash photography by firing the light out everywhere so it bounces off the walls and ceilings. This doesn't work for macro flash as there are no nearby surfaces to reflect this light from. The light is just lost and there is still a bright centre to the light.

Thank you. That is very helpful and exactly what I wanted to know.