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Thread started 21 Jul 2017 (Friday) 06:28
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New to Photography/Camera Question

 
TeamSpeed
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Jul 21, 2017 12:17 |  #16

bubbygator wrote in post #18407689 (external link)
Hey man, if you've got any camera just start shooting.
You will learn a lot of basics by just trying... and in the non-film world today it's cheap and easy to learn.

Agreed, because....

Ultrashiver wrote in post #18407471 (external link)
Hi All - I am new to the hobby and so far, I've been studying about ISO, aperture, and shutter speed, so I would like to be able to take pictures like the amazing ones on this forum, but I don't know too much about a camera that I should use or how much I should spend.

I know that it's not all about the camera as lightning and other factors come into play to get clear/sharp images, so can someone please recommend a descent camera so I can get started?

I am looking to spend up to $300.00.

Thank you, kindly

this sounds like somebody just want to be able to put the various factors together to capture some moments or scenes with some level of decent quality, and save the mastery of photography for later.

The 530 should be fine for now, but there will be a point you outgrow it, and then a sensible DSLR purchase will be beneficial. :) Probably just in time for the 6D2 to be about 1/2 the price it is now due to poor sales. :D

Good site to use to bounce against your trials with your camera: https://digital-photography-school.com/ (external link)

Some helpful tips:
http://www.shawacademy​.com …t-dslr-photo-point-shoot/ (external link)
https://www.photo.net …shoot-travel-photography/ (external link)


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"Man only has 5 senses, and sometimes not even that, so if they define the world, the universe, the dimensions of existence, and spirituality with just these limited senses, their view of what-is and what-can-be is very myopic indeed and they are doomed, now and forever."

  
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sjones
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Jul 21, 2017 13:21 |  #17

Wilt wrote in post #18407613 (external link)
With the above very general description, I found the Canon Powershot SX540 and looked it up for a description of basic exposure control features

Shooting Modes: M, Av, Tv, P, Live View

...IOW it does nothing different/less for exposure flexibility than you will find in a $2000 (or even $5000) dSLR, and it does more than even a than truly professional grade SLRs of 40 years ago!!

What about metering capability?...

Light Metering Method: Evaluative, Center Weighted Average, Spot

...IOW it does nothing different/less for exposure flexibility than you will find in a $2000 (or even $5000) dSLR, and it does more than even a than truly professional grade SLRs of 40 years ago!!
!

What about shutter speed?...

Shutter Speed : 1-1/2000 sec.; 15-1/2000 sec. (in Tv and M modes)

...IOW it has only a bit less flexibility of shutter speed than you will find in a $2000 dSLR at 1/4000 (or even $5000 dSLR at 1/8000), yet its top shutter speed is faster than truly professional grade SLRs of 40 years ago!

How about zoom range of the lens?...

Focal Length: 4.3 (W) - 215.0 (T) mm (35mm film equivalent: 24-1200mm)

...IOW it gives up nothing vs. a typical dSLR for FL capability, although its lens is fixed to the body rather than interchangeable! Yes, a dSLR can allow the use of lenses with faster max apertures, but not all shooting is done needing the fast aperture lens

What you already own is a fine platform to LEARN the mastery of the fundamentals about technical aspects of the craft
And learning and mastery of compositional skills can be done with a $300 camera or a $3000 camera, both with only a 'normal lens' mounted on it


I suggest getting comfortable with what you have, and AFTER you learn a lot more where its LIMITATIONS are impeding your ability to shoot -- and after you figure out if a dSLR's capabilities are any better in that area,
you are ready to make an informed and wise purchase decision! Any sooner and you are merely throwing money at the issue in an UNINFORMED and UNEDUCATED fit of G.A.S.

And buying a nice USED dSLR -- even one which is 4-6 years old -- will expand the capabilities of the camera past the limitations of what you currently use. But armed with knowledge, you will be less likely to simply be throwing money away on an unwise choice.

At this point you have no idea of needs or desires specific enough for folks to make 'best choice for your NEEDS' recommendations. It is a bit like asking

Q: I need to buy a car, what do I get?
A1: Buy a Fiat
A2: Buy a Chevy Malibu
A3: Buy a Porsche convertible
A4: Buy a Ford F150 pickup
A5: Buy a Hummvee

...all very different vehicles suitable for very different purposes, but which one fits your needs?

Exactly!

My camera tops out at 1/1000th shutter speed, my focal length is, by choice, limited to 50mm, and my ISO is largely set at 400, although I can get wild and shoot up to 3200 if I throw some ND or color filters on my lens.

Now, I’m an extreme example, an anomaly that by no means establishes a standard reference point. Not even close.

Nevertheless, what a photographer actually needs, or for that matter, just wants, is obviously going to vary, and the OP already has a camera that allows for pretty extensive flexibility.

Of course, buying a new camera can simply be fun, if not necessary, especially if the funds allow for it with little compromise, but given that the OP has a very capable camera, he is already set to learn not just the fundamentals but also about what gear is actually applicable to his style and needs (which are themselves something that might also evolve).

When I first got seriously into photography, I certainly thought the 70-200mm would be an essential addition, obviously. However, within months, I realized that I had little desire to shoot anything longer than a normal lens, and I eventually discovered that I simply enjoyed using primes more than zooms. A lot of what I initially expected effectively collapsed.

Again, this is completely anecdotal, but for beginners in general, today’s cameras, including bridge cameras or even smartphones, offer so much quality, that they can often meet the needs of many photographers, amateur to pro, depending on the photographer’s objectives.

Also, as MalVueX stated, do NOT underestimate the value of post processing, even if it just involves a slight tweak to contrast, saturation, and sharpness. A lot of those ‘Shot on iPhone’ photos have received a decent amount of post-shot primping, and that’s completely fine…IT’S NOT CHEATING!


May 2022-January 2023 (external link)

  
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Colorblinded
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Jul 21, 2017 20:20 |  #18

sjones wrote in post #18407730 (external link)
Exactly!

My camera tops out at 1/1000th shutter speed, my focal length is, by choice, limited to 50mm, and my ISO is largely set at 400, although I can get wild and shoot up to 3200 if I throw some ND or color filters on my lens.

Now, I’m an extreme example, an anomaly that by no means establishes a standard reference point. Not even close.

Nevertheless, what a photographer actually needs, or for that matter, just wants, is obviously going to vary, and the OP already has a camera that allows for pretty extensive flexibility.

Of course, buying a new camera can simply be fun, if not necessary, especially if the funds allow for it with little compromise, but given that the OP has a very capable camera, he is already set to learn not just the fundamentals but also about what gear is actually applicable to his style and needs (which are themselves something that might also evolve).

When I first got seriously into photography, I certainly thought the 70-200mm would be an essential addition, obviously. However, within months, I realized that I had little desire to shoot anything longer than a normal lens, and I eventually discovered that I simply enjoyed using primes more than zooms. A lot of what I initially expected effectively collapsed.

Again, this is completely anecdotal, but for beginners in general, today’s cameras, including bridge cameras or even smartphones, offer so much quality, that they can often meet the needs of many photographers, amateur to pro, depending on the photographer’s objectives.

Also, as MalVueX stated, do NOT underestimate the value of post processing, even if it just involves a slight tweak to contrast, saturation, and sharpness. A lot of those ‘Shot on iPhone’ photos have received a decent amount of post-shot primping, and that’s completely fine…IT’S NOT CHEATING!


Wilt wrote in post #18407613 (external link)
With the above very general description, I found the Canon Powershot SX540 and looked it up for a description of basic exposure control features

Shooting Modes: M, Av, Tv, P, Live View

...IOW it does nothing different/less for exposure flexibility than you will find in a $2000 (or even $5000) dSLR, and it does more than even a than truly professional grade SLRs of 40 years ago!!

What about metering capability?...

Light Metering Method: Evaluative, Center Weighted Average, Spot

...IOW it does nothing different/less for exposure flexibility than you will find in a $2000 (or even $5000) dSLR, and it does more than even a than truly professional grade SLRs of 40 years ago!!
!

What about shutter speed?...

Shutter Speed : 1-1/2000 sec.; 15-1/2000 sec. (in Tv and M modes)

...IOW it has only a bit less flexibility of shutter speed than you will find in a $2000 dSLR at 1/4000 (or even $5000 dSLR at 1/8000), yet its top shutter speed is faster than truly professional grade SLRs of 40 years ago!

How about zoom range of the lens?...

Focal Length: 4.3 (W) - 215.0 (T) mm (35mm film equivalent: 24-1200mm)

...IOW it gives up nothing vs. a typical dSLR for FL capability, although its lens is fixed to the body rather than interchangeable! Yes, a dSLR can allow the use of lenses with faster max apertures, but not all shooting is done needing the fast aperture lens

What you already own is a fine platform to LEARN the mastery of the fundamentals about technical aspects of the craft
And learning and mastery of compositional skills can be done with a $300 camera or a $3000 camera, both with only a 'normal lens' mounted on it


I suggest getting comfortable with what you have, and AFTER you learn a lot more where its LIMITATIONS are impeding your ability to shoot -- and after you figure out if a dSLR's capabilities are any better in that area,
you are ready to make an informed and wise purchase decision! Any sooner and you are merely throwing money at the issue in an UNINFORMED and UNEDUCATED fit of G.A.S.

And buying a nice USED dSLR -- even one which is 4-6 years old -- will expand the capabilities of the camera past the limitations of what you currently use. But armed with knowledge, you will be less likely to simply be throwing money away on an unwise choice.

At this point you have no idea of needs or desires specific enough for folks to make 'best choice for your NEEDS' recommendations. It is a bit like asking

Q: I need to buy a car, what do I get?
A1: Buy a Fiat
A2: Buy a Chevy Malibu
A3: Buy a Porsche convertible
A4: Buy a Ford F150 pickup
A5: Buy a Hummvee

...all very different vehicles suitable for very different purposes, but which one fits your needs?

I agree with all of this. Best to learn what you really need and want from experience than get a bunch of uninformed (regarding your circumstances) opinions from some schmoes on the internet.

About the only drawback to working with cameras like that IMO is the limited ability to play with and learn about the effects of depth of field in many circumstances where its impact would be more noticeable with a camera with a larger sensor.

Still, you have what you need to start learning.


http://www.colorblinde​dphoto.com (external link)
http://www.thecolorbli​ndphotographer.com (external link)

  
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Jul 23, 2017 00:39 as a reply to  @ Colorblinded's post |  #19

Lots of great advice here all I have to say is a great beginner DSLR (Or at least to me) is the Nikon D3200. Easy to use and takes great photos once you get the hang of it. Been using mine for over a year now and I love it. I think its been discontinued though so you'd have to search around and find a good used one.




  
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Jul 23, 2017 16:19 |  #20

With zero further input from OP about wants/needs/expecation​s, it is reasonable to say that you could learn just fine with any one of the following:

  • 2007 40D or 450D
  • 2012 60D or 600D
  • 2017 80D or 800D



The differences will be pixel count and signal:nose in high ISO capability, and features (which may or may not matter at all) like video, GPS, wireless
Yes, the 40D is 'dated' by some criteria, yet it set a standard in its time for a high quality camera, with s/n many consider to be better than later cameras like the 50D. A 10MPixel camera is nothing to sneeze at, it is looked down by those who are simply impressed by video capability (absent in the 40D) and super high ISO capability.

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Jul 23, 2017 18:35 as a reply to  @ Wilt's post |  #21

Wildlife/Birding is the main focus, so resolution will help, along with a good AF system.


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Jul 25, 2017 06:22 |  #22

I've already started doing some testing with different settings and getting to know the camera - I'm really excited about this - Thank you all for your input -


-Ultra




  
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Jul 25, 2017 06:37 as a reply to  @ post 18407515 |  #23

From what I understand, the lower the ISO, the less grainy the image will be - I'm guessing if there is a lot of sunlight, I need to have lower ISO - I really don't plan on shooting with limited sunlight -

From experimenting, I've noticed that setting the ISO lower, I got a sharper image and opposed to higher ISO setting -

I am still learning the camera and jotting down notes for optimal settings based on light conditions - I'm having a lot of fun doing so -


Airborne!




  
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Jul 25, 2017 06:53 |  #24

Ultrashiver wrote in post #18410703 (external link)
From what I understand, the lower the ISO, the less grainy the image will be - I'm guessing if there is a lot of sunlight, I need to have lower ISO - I really don't plan on shooting with limited sunlight -

From experimenting, I've noticed that setting the ISO lower, I got a sharper image and opposed to higher ISO setting -

I am still learning the camera and jotting down notes for optimal settings based on light conditions - I'm having a lot of fun doing so -


Airborne!

The higher the ISO, the more the grain, but also the lower the exposure and brightening up the image afterwards will actually bring out noise even worse, more so with some bodies over others. It is usually better to get the exposure right using ISO as a tool for that, vs underexposing and pulling it later.

Grain is not bad, what you see on the screen doesn't always transfer to a print, and there are tools that clean up noise nicely too.


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"Man only has 5 senses, and sometimes not even that, so if they define the world, the universe, the dimensions of existence, and spirituality with just these limited senses, their view of what-is and what-can-be is very myopic indeed and they are doomed, now and forever."

  
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Phoenixkh
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Jul 25, 2017 22:17 |  #25

Wilt wrote in post #18409396 (external link)
With zero further input from OP about wants/needs/expecation​s, it is reasonable to say that you could learn just fine with any one of the following:

  • 2007 40D or 450D
  • 2012 60D or 600D
  • 2017 80D or 800D



The differences will be pixel count and signal:nose in high ISO capability, and features (which may or may not matter at all) like video, GPS, wireless
Yes, the 40D is 'dated' by some criteria, yet it set a standard in its time for a high quality camera, with s/n many consider to be better than later cameras like the 50D. A 10MPixel camera is nothing to sneeze at, it is looked down by those who are simply impressed by video capability (absent in the 40D) and super high ISO capability.

I haven't checked the prices for a 60D lately, but that was my first DSLR and it was a great camera. I bet you can pick up a lightly used one, add a 18-55STM and be set for a while. Pick up a 55-250 STM later.

That would be a pretty nice set up for learning.


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Jul 25, 2017 22:28 |  #26

Ultrashiver wrote in post #18410703 (external link)
From what I understand, the lower the ISO, the less grainy the image will be - I'm guessing if there is a lot of sunlight, I need to have lower ISO - I really don't plan on shooting with limited sunlight -

From experimenting, I've noticed that setting the ISO lower, I got a sharper image and opposed to higher ISO setting -

I am still learning the camera and jotting down notes for optimal settings based on light conditions - I'm having a lot of fun doing so -


Airborne!

While this forum is an excellent source of information, I also recommend getting the book Understanding Exposure as it will answer a lot of questions you have.



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Jul 27, 2017 05:56 |  #27

Hello All - Thank you for your input - This image is no where near the beautiful ones on here, but I was laid out some peanuts on my fence and was able to shoot this little guy at x26 zoom.

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Jul 27, 2017 06:21 |  #28

You're off to a good start, nice shot above. What camera did you end up purchasing? I also second the comment above, the book "Understanding Exposure" helped me a lot when I first started.


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Ultrashiver
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Jul 27, 2017 08:48 as a reply to  @ gregr2's post |  #29

Thank you! I used a G&E x2600 for this shot -

I also have a Canon PowerShot SX530 16MP with X50 zoom that I haven't taken out of the box yet -

I was able to find a PDF for Understanding Exposure and am reviewing -

Thanks again!




  
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