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Thread started 29 Jul 2017 (Saturday) 23:48
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Is it too late to order a Solar Filter for the Eclipse?

 
mtbdudex
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Aug 14, 2017 11:32 |  #16

Thx for posting this thread and the info in it!

We live in SE Michigan and will see approx 86% coverage, will make a pinhole projection method

One safe way of enjoying the Sun during a partial eclipse--or anytime--is a "pinhole camera," which allows you to view a projected image of the Sun. There are fancy pinhole cameras you can make out of cardboard boxes, but a perfectly adequate (and portable) version can be made out of two thin but stiff pieces of white cardboard. Punch a small clean pinhole in one piece of cardboard and let the sunlight fall through that hole onto the second piece of cardboard, which serves as a screen, held below it. An inverted image of the Sun is formed. To make the image larger, move the screen farther from the pinhole. To make the image brighter, move the screen closer to the pinhole. Do not make the pinhole wide or you will only have a shaft of sunlight rather than an image of the crescent Sun. Remember, this instrument is used with your back to the Sun. The sunlight passes over your shoulder, through the pinhole, and forms an image on the cardboard screen beneath it. Do not look through the pinhole at the Sun.


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Aug 14, 2017 14:19 |  #17

mtbdudex wrote in post #18427358 (external link)
Thx for posting this thread and the info in it!

We live in SE Michigan and will see approx 86% coverage, will make a pinhole projection method

You are very welcome NEIGHBOR!!! Where I live (Elkhart) we are at 88% so must be somewhere kinda close!


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Aug 14, 2017 14:24 |  #18

I was in a LOWES builders business over the weekend and surprisingly they had a display of the proper sunglasses ISO Certified .




  
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Aug 14, 2017 22:37 |  #19
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I know filters are needed for DSLRs as the sun can damage the sensor; but, are they needed for film cameras?


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Aug 15, 2017 06:24 as a reply to  @ Alveric's post |  #20

No sensor to hurt but without a filter Picts will ruin . Except during 2 min totality .




  
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Aug 15, 2017 13:35 |  #21
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Celestron wrote in post #18428113 (external link)
No sensor to hurt but without a filter Picts will ruin . Except during 2 min totality .

You mean exposure-wise?

I can see that happening: this camera only goes as fast as 1/250 s. Well, technically, up to 1/1000 s, but the fastest shutter speeds only work sporadically, as it has a sluggish shutter. :(

We won't have totality here. Only ~79% of it. Assuming, also, that it won't be cloudy on that day.


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Aug 15, 2017 14:22 |  #22

Alveric wrote in post #18428462 (external link)
You mean exposure-wise?

I can see that happening: this camera only goes as fast as 1/250 s. Well, technically, up to 1/1000 s, but the fastest shutter speeds only work sporadically, as it has a sluggish shutter. :(

We won't have totality here. Only ~79% of it. Assuming, also, that it won't be cloudy on that day.


Basically i'm meaning the film might ruin since your lens acts like a magnifying glass on a piece of paper . But it only needs a quick second to be exposed to the sun to ruin .




  
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Aug 15, 2017 15:25 |  #23
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Celestron wrote in post #18428507 (external link)
Basically i'm meaning the film might ruin since your lens acts like a magnifying glass on a piece of paper . But it only needs a quick second to be exposed to the sun to ruin .

I'm puzzled by this. I read left and right that the sun will burn sensors and film, yet, I've taken photos with the sun in the frame and no damage has ever occurred. Heck, I've even looked at the sun with bare eyes and haven't gone blind. Now, these exposures to and of the sun, ocular and camera, have been of fleeting fractions of a second. Does the damage happen only when the camera is pointed steadily and for more than a few seconds at the sun?


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Aug 15, 2017 15:43 as a reply to  @ Alveric's post |  #24

During totality your fine with the sun if your in that two minute dark span . But afterwards when the suns full light hits your film it will look overexposed big time . That's what I mean . Since you have a slow shutter that leaves more exposure time than normal . I have an old K1000 Pentax and I believe 1/1000th is high as it goes . Can't remember correctly , haven't looked at it in a long time . But I have an old Olympus OM1 and It has the same shutter speed as the Pentax but it is very fast , no stick to it . Use the highest shutter speed you have and the lowest ISO film you can get like 100 or better yet ISO50 . Be hard to find unless you already have some . And might as well use B&W cause the sun brightness will knock out any color unless you have a proper filter that allows color .




  
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Aug 18, 2017 09:05 |  #25

I have a esddi lc-nd1000... I bought it from Amazon after searching for Eclipse filter. The description did say it was safe for solar eclipses. So I'm hoping this will work.

I also have a B+W 110 ND 3.0 - 10 BL 1000 E filter.

Will either one of these work?


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Aug 18, 2017 09:44 |  #26

CameraMan wrote in post #18430832 (external link)
I have a esddi lc-nd1000... I bought it from Amazon after searching for Eclipse filter. The description did say it was safe for solar eclipses. So I'm hoping this will work.

I also have a B+W 110 ND 3.0 - 10 BL 1000 E filter.

Will either one of these work?

I am not an expert on either of these, or any other filters. Hopefully someone else will see this and respond that does know.


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Aug 18, 2017 09:52 |  #27

CameraMan wrote in post #18430832 (external link)
I have a esddi lc-nd1000... I bought it from Amazon after searching for Eclipse filter. The description did say it was safe for solar eclipses. So I'm hoping this will work.

I also have a B+W 110 ND 3.0 - 10 BL 1000 E filter.

Will either one of these work?

Unless you can prove either filter blocks IR and UV, the answer is no.


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Aug 18, 2017 10:01 |  #28

OK, I also have a standard clear UV filter as well. Could I place that either behind or in front of one of the other ones for the UV protection?


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Aug 18, 2017 10:11 as a reply to  @ CameraMan's post |  #29

Clear won't work period , and a regular UV filter for your lens won't work either cause those filters are for normal imaging . UV rays directly from the sun are different as far as damaging your eyes and camera sensor . You need a solar filter that completely covers any openings from the lens to your sensor or viewer window . During the two minute totality you can take your filter off if your trying to capture the corona .




  
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Aug 18, 2017 10:16 |  #30

Unfortunately, I will be in a 96% totality area so total coverage won't be visible from my area.


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Is it too late to order a Solar Filter for the Eclipse?
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