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Thread started 01 Aug 2017 (Tuesday) 19:08
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Old Flash and Film camera.. where the ttl switch?

 
rantercsr
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Post edited over 6 years ago by rantercsr.
     
Aug 01, 2017 19:08 |  #1

ok so I know theres no ttl... right?

so I just got this pentax k1000 and it came with this old flash.

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put in a roll of film .. want to try out the flash a bit ,, but not too sure what i'm doing here
behind the flash theres a chart , i'm assuming to guide settings .
to make sure i'm reading this right..
so I have 400 film , at 3.5 feet i'd need to be F32?.. at the cameras sync speed? (which in this case is 60)

apologies if this is a silly question ,,, but this is film for heavens sake I cant chimp!! :p

Thanks in advance for any input

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Alveric
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Post edited over 6 years ago by Alveric.
     
Aug 01, 2017 20:01 |  #2
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Welcome to the happy world of manual flash!

At 3.5 ft you'll get an illumination value of f/32, if you use ISO 400, yes.

I'd run a test roll on that camera, recording in a notepad different settings. I have an old Pentax (MX) film camera, and the synch speed is sketchy. I get a black bar from the second curtain at the camera's synch speed of 1/60 s, when using off camera flash: thus, I have to actually shoot at 1/30, which doubles the amount of (ambient) light.


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Aug 01, 2017 20:20 |  #3

Seeing as you have only a single power setting, and it looks like it has a pretty good GN for a smaller unit. I would suggest making sure you are closer to 15 feet from your subject, since it will allow you to have a little depth in the subject, without the exposure dropping off dramatically and f/8 should offer better image quality.

You won't be able to work at 3.5 feet, IIRC that lens only goes down to f/22. Remember that every time you double the flash to subject distance you reduce the exposure by two stops, or conversely, if you get something in shot at half the subject distance it will be over exposed by two stops!

I would suggest taking it out of the hot shoe, and using the PC cord so that you can at least bounce the flash. Remember that in that situation you need to use the total path length from the flash, to the bounce point (center of the beam) and then to the subject when calculating the exposure. Remember it is the Flash to subject distance that really matters, not the camera.

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Aug 01, 2017 20:28 |  #4
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You can also use the flash gun in the camera sitting behind the Pentax in that photo, you know? Which will allow you to bounce and use StoFens, and all the other nifty things flashguns do... except TTL that is.

I use my Canon EX-430II with my Pentax without problems. I did have to, however, compile an aperture table (external link) with the flash in different configurations that I can use as a guide. I printed it out and carry it in my flashgun's case.


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Post edited over 6 years ago by Wilt.
     
Aug 01, 2017 22:37 |  #5

Manual flash, zero automation. GN56 at ISO 100...but probably with a flash coverage angle suitable for 35mm FL on FF camera.
In comparison, the Canon 430EX has GN102 at ISO 100 and 35mm FL coverage angle...the Canon is 2EV more powerful, or it reaches twice as far at the same aperture.

Vivitar 1900: 56 / 2 = 28' max distance at f/2
Canon 430EX (at 35mm FL): 102 / 2 = 56' max distance at f/2


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rantercsr
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Aug 02, 2017 04:56 |  #6

Thanks all for the responses.


Last time i shot a film camera was sept 2001, ..i was always into taking pictures but these were all auto cameras and i had no idea , i remember thinking the number on film indicated quality , so 100 being very generic and 800 bein much better quality.

Amyways yes , i tried my canon 430exii and it works , going to try my yongnuo triggers today after work.. no reason they shouldnt work.. i suppose


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Aug 02, 2017 13:14 |  #7
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If you just got the camera, try all the shutter speeds several times. My Pentax MX has a sluggish shutter, and can't handle speeds of 1/500 and above. It's a hit or miss with those.


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Aug 02, 2017 14:16 |  #8

rantercsr wrote in post #18417125 (external link)
Thanks all for the responses.


Last time i shot a film camera was sept 2001, ..i was always into taking pictures but these were all auto cameras and i had no idea , i remember thinking the number on film indicated quality , so 100 being very generic and 800 bein much better quality.

The number on the film does not always equate to better quality as the number gets larger. Those film numbers are the ISO sensitivity, pretty much like digital ISO.


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rantercsr
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Aug 02, 2017 14:38 |  #9

Alveric wrote in post #18417469 (external link)
If you just got the camera, try all the shutter speeds several times. My Pentax MX has a sluggish shutter, and can't handle speeds of 1/500 and above. It's a hit or miss with those.

yes i'm going to do all sorts of testing , I've watched some vids already that explained how the shutter may not be true to the numbers set.
also for the sync speed , as well as seing how well settings match if I use another camera to setup the numbers with a speed light and then duplicate with pentax .. for portrait shoots
I have a portrait session this coming sunday.
at the end if theres time going to see if I can try a few shots with the pentax

Tixeon wrote in post #18417535 (external link)
The number on the film does not always equate to better quality as the number gets larger. Those film numbers are the ISO sensitivity, pretty much like digital ISO.

yes thanks .. I know this now , or i made the connection years ago when i learned how to use a camera manually


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Old Flash and Film camera.. where the ttl switch?
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