
You can turn the LED AF light off.

I turn mine off and leave it off with every Fuji I buy when I first unbox it
EverydayGetaway Cream of the Crop ![]() More info | Aug 25, 2017 00:37 | #46 Osa713 wrote in post #18436403 ![]() You can turn the LED AF light off. ![]() I turn mine off and leave it off with every Fuji I buy when I first unbox it Fuji X-T3 // Fuji X-Pro2 (Full Spectrum) // Fuji X-H1 // Fuji X-T1
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AlanU Cream of the Crop More info | Aug 25, 2017 01:11 | #47 EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18436408 ![]() I'm baffled because I haven't had nearly as many issues as you seem to have had, nor have I heard of anyone else having issues like you describe. I haven't had consistent AF issues with a Fuji body since my X-E1. Now, there are certain settings which work better than others for sure. In my experience using single point AF in dark environments is not only less reliable but far slower than using selective area AF. I recognize that my faster lenses definitely contribute to a better AF experience in general in low light, but I haven't even had issues like you're describing when using my 18-55mm, so it makes me wonder if it's a matter of how your camera i set up or how you're using it. It's the camera....not the user 5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 85 mkII L | | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
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Aug 25, 2017 05:30 | #48 EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18435617 ![]() You don't need to use both the trigger and an on camera flash, you can just use the flash on the camera to control the other flashes (as was pointed out earlier in this thread). I use my TT350 to control my TT685 and it works perfectly, whether the TT350 is set to fire or not. TTL can be adjusted via the flash or the camera body.
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EverydayGetaway Cream of the Crop ![]() More info | Aug 25, 2017 07:28 | #49 AlanU wrote in post #18436420 ![]() It's the camera....not the user ![]() The mirrored bodies I've ever used have never experienced this type of behavior. I do assume the fuji will max out the aperture during AF. I know Canon will open max aperture during AF focusing. I've now met up with enough semi pro's/pro's and hardcore enthusiast to compile enough info to say the fuji is a different beast compared to a mirrored body in AF behavior in low light. No doubt we all shoot differently but so far everyone I've spoken to LOVE fuji but they are equally as vocal as I am about pros/cons of the system. AF is still a hot topic. I honestly do not know many events photographers using selective area AF for this type of photography. I would never ever use selective area AF for majority of my events photography. I use that for spray and pray capturing moving subjects only . I would not allow the camera to decide where I focus during run/gun documentation even if the zone selected area is small. If I aim for the eyes....I target the eyes. If Fuji's eye detection was more reliable I'd use that for posed portraits when I have alot of time on my hands. I just did an awards session (2-3 people at a time) during the winners at the largest VW show in Canada. I pulled out my 16mm with X-T2 with battery pack. I tried the face detect and eye detect and killed that feature and shot it with selected single point with much more accuracy. For what type of photography? Shooting with a UWA? Shooting with a UWA the DOF is so wide that you could use hyper-focal focusing for most subjects, so I'm not sure what you mean by saying it wouldn't be precise enough. Fuji X-T3 // Fuji X-Pro2 (Full Spectrum) // Fuji X-H1 // Fuji X-T1
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Two Hot Shoes Goldmember ![]() More info | The 16mm at f/1.4 on a Fuji APS-C will give you a depth of field of 86cm, 2 meters [6.6 feet] from your subjuct, at 3 meter distance it's 2.1 meters in depth. Fujifilm cameras and lenses.
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EverydayGetaway Cream of the Crop ![]() More info | Aug 25, 2017 11:09 | #51 Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #18436630 ![]() The 16mm at f/1.4 on a Fuji APS-C will give you a depth of field of 86cm, 2 meters [6.6 feet] from your subjuct, at 3 meter distance it's 2.1 meters in depth. Open the aperture up to a f/2.8 and you get a DoF of 2 meters at a distance of 2 meters with 16mm. Exactly my point, you shouldn't need the focus point to be precisely on the eye with a 16mm at any reasonable distance. Fuji X-T3 // Fuji X-Pro2 (Full Spectrum) // Fuji X-H1 // Fuji X-T1
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Two Hot Shoes Goldmember ![]() More info Post edited over 5 years ago by Two Hot Shoes. (2 edits in all) | Yep, just learning those things about your lenses can be very helpful, especially in manual focusing, as I know you know. Fujifilm cameras and lenses.
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AlanU Cream of the Crop More info | Aug 25, 2017 11:34 | #53 EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18436638 ![]() Exactly my point, you shouldn't need the focus point to be precisely on the eye with a 16mm at any reasonable distance. I've never struck this type of conversation with working professionals about using selective area AF. I don't know many photographers that allow their camera's to randomly select focus points during events photography. There are reasons why people micro adjust and do battery tests to assure proper AF with mirrored bodies. 5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 85 mkII L | | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
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AlanU Cream of the Crop More info | Aug 25, 2017 11:35 | #54 Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #18436650 ![]() Yep, just learning those things about your lenses can be very helpful, especially in manual focusing, as I know you know. Just for fun the XF10-24 at 10mm and f/4 at a range of 2 meters has everything in focus from 0.8 meters out.
5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 85 mkII L | | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
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AlanU Cream of the Crop More info | Aug 25, 2017 12:29 | #55 EverydayGetaway wrote in post #18436638 ![]() Exactly my point, you shouldn't need the focus point to be precisely on the eye with a 16mm at any reasonable distance.
5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 85 mkII L | | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
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CyberDyneSystems Admin (type T-2000) ![]() More info Post edited over 5 years ago by CyberDyneSystems. | Aug 25, 2017 12:38 | #56 Alan, the SONY shooters with it's absolutely amazing eye detection will shoot zone all day and the Camera does the work for you, and faster and better. GEAR LIST
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AlanU Cream of the Crop More info Post edited over 5 years ago by AlanU. | Aug 25, 2017 12:53 | #57 CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #18436696 ![]() Alan, the SONY shooters with it's absolutely amazing eye detection will shoot zone all day and the Camera does the work for you, and faster and better. https://www.dpreview.com …8044/sony-an-eye-on-focus ![]() https://www.slrlounge.com …redator-see-it-in-action/ ![]() Eye detection in DSLRs is still in it's infancy compared to what the SONY mirrorless are doing with it. The times they are a changen... I agree Jake. 5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 85 mkII L | | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
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Two Hot Shoes Goldmember ![]() More info | Aug 25, 2017 13:07 | #58 Generally I'll only use zone if I feel I won't be able to keep the AF point on the subject, like kids running about at a wedding. I keep it tight though. Otherwise it's single point for me. I rarely use face detect although it has gotten a lot better but until I can zone + face I'll not use it if there are more than one person looking. Go try sonys new face tracking its great and shows what can be done. Fujifilm cameras and lenses.
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Two Hot Shoes Goldmember ![]() More info | Aug 25, 2017 14:13 | #59 AlanU wrote in post #18436710 ![]() I'll make a poll on POTN Why don't you just try it and see if it works for you? If it does great, if not, no loss. Then you don't have the worry about what or how others are doing things. Fujifilm cameras and lenses.
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Zone works very well for me at events where people are moving. LIGHT>LENS>BODY
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