Just ordered my first light meter

That's how I'm hoping it works and I just plan on firing the test button on the transmitter myself.

Talley wrote in post #18422589
That's how I'm hoping it works and I just plan on firing the test button on the transmitter myself.

The HSS metering of the 858 is analogous to the ordinary cordless flash metering...you put the meter into the flash metering mode and you have 90 seconds to fire the flash, and it will meter the HSS with the assumptions about ISO and shutter speed that you put into the meter just before pressing the button to initiate the 90 sec. threshhold detection of light output. Ordinarily you press the camera shutter, which initiates the request for HSS output due to too-fast a shutter speed (exceeding X-sync).

What is not so clearcut is trigger of the flash in HSS mode...the flash itself somehow 'knows' that the shutter speed is at X-sync (or slower), and if the shutter speed is faster than X-sync, and HSS-enabled flash outputs the rapid-pulsed long duration light. Firing the flash with its radio trigger I do not know if the necessary signals are sent to the flash to 'know' the shutter speed and that the HSS output is needed for the shot

...I believe ordinarily the camera communicates to the connected eTTL/HSS flash that the long-duration HSS output is requested, and that eTTL flash metering has determined at what power level the HSS emission has to have...and a simple push of the button on the radio trigger (when not driven by the camera) would perhaps not accomplish that signal about A) pre-flash request followed by B) power-level HSS output request finally triggered by the trigger circuit.

It will be interesting to learn of the outcome of testing.

I just picked up a lightly used L308S for $140. I will set everything up and get comfortable with it, then it will sit in my case until Christmas!

For as much as I would use it, I couldn't rationalize spending more than $150.

I have the Sekonic 758, similar to yours but previous generation. I think you will be very happy with the new meter.

Once you have basic calibration with your camera (usually out of the box it will be fine), as long as you meter correctly (not hard, follow the directions, hold the meter at subject positions and don't be between the dome and your flash), you will get a correctly exposed face every time .

One issue which causes religious wars: dome aimed at camera position or at key light . I know how I do it, and 95% of the time, it makes no significant difference. It's a choice. Smart people have gone either way.

The spot option is a significant advantage in certain uses which I value. Otherwise, I would have stuck with my ancient Gossen Luna Star.

If you want to really go to town, you can also use the color passport (at least it is supported with my meter) with Sekonic software to create a profile for your camera. You can also spend another $100+ if you want an even more accurate profile by buying a special purpose card (not worth it to me). A profile gives you practical dynamic range for your camera (you can set your own cut-offs), which then can be displayed on the meter. Not necessary but it can be useful.

arthurbikemad wrote in post #18422892
Oh go on then, I'll go first.. I shoot dome to camera lens haha

Fine.

My answer is a bit nuanced. If you are not a lighting geek, it is better ignored. I'm mostly in the "towards the camera" camp, but if it is a less traditional key light position, I switch sides. And "which is the key light," at that point, becomes a matter of interpretation. As an example, in a Joel Grimes style sports image, a photographer could consider the rear lights as rim lights, in which case, the front light is the key. But if you want them to be the key and the front to be fill....

Which kinda sounds like "towards the light" would be a more consistent position...

It isn't unusual, if there is more than one light, that I use key to set exposure, measure other lights on their own, then put everything on and double-check the exposure. This is more efficient than it sounds. Toward the camera has the advantage of including fill impact, if any.

If I am doing high key, I use the spot meter to check the background. I'm not a big high key fan, but if I'm going to do it, I want it right without much post processing.

I'm hoping I don't regret answering this against my better judgement .

My case for individual lights, key, fill, hair what ever, recessed dome facing the light. Then dome out facing camera for overall. Usually difference in this last step facing key with dome out and facing camera with dome out is pretty small.

Great meter choice. I got mine for HSS and love it. Makes things so fast and simple. Of course maybe if Gofox fixes the darn TTL with my Xplor600 and A7Rii camera at wider apertures, I may not need to use it as much at least for fast pace shootings but still, the consistency and ridiculous amount of features cannot be beat.

shaolin95 wrote in post #18423266
Great meter choice. I got mine for HSS and love it. Makes things so fast and simple. Of course maybe if Gofox fixes the darn TTL with my Xplor600 and A7Rii camera at wider apertures, I may not need to use it as much at least for fast pace shootings but still, the consistency and ridiculous amount of features cannot be beat.

Since you have the meter, can you help with my question in #17 post. Thanks.

bobbyz wrote in post #18422574
So quick question, how does one use it? I have regular Sekonic 358. I set ISO, and ss I want, say 1/200 and once my lights are triggered by built in pocket wizard radio, I can read aperture on the L358 screen. Now I want to do same but using Godox strobes in HSS mode. Since Seikonic doesn't have Godox Tx, I can triger Godox two ways, one with connecting a cable from this new Seikonic to Godox Tx or pressing the button on Seikonic and then manually triggering a Godox Tx in my hand which will trigger the Godox strobes. In both these cases, the new Sekonic should now display the correct aperture, I assume. I don't care for reading any timings etc.

Set the meter to HSS, because I am using Godox I need to trigger the camera with the XT1 or XT32 attached to send the HSS pulse, you get a read out of aperture and 100% that flash is contributing to the overall exposure

Mike

I attached a short quick connect cable to my Canon ST-E3 and carried it with me hanging from my belt loop to fire each Canon flash manually. I just used the Auto-reset cordless flash mode in page 16 of the manual. When done I placed the ST-E3 back on the camera.

bobbyz wrote in post #18423292
Since you have the meter, can you help with my question in #17 post. Thanks.

I found out you have to trigger a shot w/ the camera for it to actually pop in HSS. Pressing the test function is a non HSS pop. So trigger must be mounted to camera and you must take a photo.

I'll be ok with that. It'll work. Also for godox it will only meter down to 1/4 power in HSS. which also I'm fine with that since I'll want to be using it mostly during times when I'll need the power.

Talley wrote in post #18423353
I found out you have to trigger a shot w/ the camera for it to actually pop in HSS. Pressing the test function is a non HSS pop. So trigger must be mounted to camera and you must take a photo.

I'll be ok with that. It'll work. Also for godox it will only meter down to 1/4 power in HSS. which also I'm fine with that since I'll want to be using it mostly during times when I'll need the power.

Yes that is what I have been doing, set the meter to read and then take a photo to trigger the strobe. Hoping for a Godox Tx soon since its such a popular system now.

Talley wrote in post #18423353
I found out you have to trigger a shot w/ the camera for it to actually pop in HSS. Pressing the test function is a non HSS pop. So trigger must be mounted to camera and you must take a photo.

I'll be ok with that. It'll work. Also for godox it will only meter down to 1/4 power in HSS. which also I'm fine with that since I'll want to be using it mostly during times when I'll need the power.

What I said I believed to be true in post19

Talley wrote in post #18423353
I found out you have to trigger a shot w/ the camera for it to actually pop in HSS. Pressing the test function is a non HSS pop. So trigger must be mounted to camera and you must take a photo.

I'll be ok with that. It'll work. Also for godox it will only meter down to 1/4 power in HSS. which also I'm fine with that since I'll want to be using it mostly during times when I'll need the power.

This is an excellent opportunity to begin your collection of pictures of yourself or your assistant holding the meter!

You can always use the self timer if you have no help

F2Bthere wrote in post #18423402
This is an excellent opportunity to begin your collection of pictures of yourself or your assistant holding the meter!

You can always use the self timer if you have no help

Figured I'd hold the meter in one hand and camera in other and pop a shot right quick. ground shot is ok. This technique should be ok even w/ the 200 f2