I really prefer 1/8000 as an option on my camera..i need it to make what i do easier ,, otherwise i need to carry nd's
Sep 15, 2017 10:12 | #16 I really prefer 1/8000 as an option on my camera..i need it to make what i do easier ,, otherwise i need to carry nd's
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Sep 15, 2017 11:05 | #17 Talley wrote in post #18452920 Anytime you want to shoot F1.4 in the full sun. You need 1/8000 thanks everybody for the replies. That pretty much sums it up. Thanks!
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Sep 15, 2017 11:13 | #18 James Crockett wrote in post #18452956 thanks everybody for the replies. That pretty much sums it up. Thanks! No problem. You "can" get away with ISO 50 in full sun at 1.4 with 1/4000 but it'll still be too bright sometimes and you'll have to work on the highlights bring them down. even with 1/8000 you can get bright highlights at 1.4. My buddy shoots the 85 1.2 at 1/8000 and still will get blown skies and such. A7rIII | A7III | 12-24 F4 | 16-35 GM | 28-75 2.8 | 100-400 GM | 12mm 2.8 Fisheye | 35mm 2.8 | 85mm 1.8 | 35A | 85A | 200mm L F2 IS | MC-11
LOG IN TO REPLY |
LeftHandedBrisket Combating camera shame since 1977... More info | Sep 15, 2017 11:20 | #19 Talley wrote in post #18452920 Anytime you want to shoot F1.4 in the full sun. You need 1/8000 Hosted photo: posted by Talley in ./showthread.php?p=18452920&i=i126462418 forum: General Photography Talk And if this had been shot at 2.0? PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20
LOG IN TO REPLY |
EverydayGetaway Cream of the Crop More info | Sep 15, 2017 11:30 | #20 Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18452969 And if this had been shot at 2.0? Pretty much the same result. I am not saying it is never needed, btw. This is exactly why I said "No." in my first post. Fuji X-T3 // Fuji X-Pro2 (Full Spectrum) // Fuji X-H1 // Fuji X-T1
LOG IN TO REPLY |
TeamSpeed 01010100 01010011 More info Post edited over 6 years ago by TeamSpeed. | Interestingly, not everyone shoots the same things the same way in the same light with the same equipment for the same purpose with the same desired end result. This means a single person cannot answer this as fact for everyone else. Past Equipment | My Personal Gallery
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Phoenixkh a mere speck More info | Sep 15, 2017 11:57 | #22 TeamSpeed wrote in post #18452982 Interestingly, not everyone shoots the same things the same way in the same light with the same equipment for the same purpose with the same desired end result. This means a single person cannot answer this as fact for everyone else. ![]() I'm often over 1/4000 with m 1D IV when out birding. Florida sun is bright. This is at f/7.1 or even f/8. I don't use auto ISO and set the ISO up to shoot in the varied conditions at a given location. I know I could lower the ISO if I had to and would accomplish the same thing. I want my shutter speed at 1/2000 or so for birds in flight. Set it and forget it. Kim (the male variety) Canon 1DX2 | 1D IV | 16-35 f/4 IS | 24-105 f/4 IS | 100L IS macro | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II | 100-400Lii | 50 f/1.8 STM | Canon 1.4X III
LOG IN TO REPLY |
EverydayGetaway Cream of the Crop More info Post edited over 6 years ago by EverydayGetaway. | Sep 15, 2017 12:11 | #23 TeamSpeed wrote in post #18452982 Interestingly, not everyone shoots the same things the same way in the same light with the same equipment for the same purpose with the same desired end result. This means a single person cannot answer this as fact for everyone else. ![]() My point is, for the vast majority of uses the difference between 1 stop of DOF is barely even noticeable. I used to obsess over shallow DOF, but I think this is the easiest trap for people to fall into with photography. Also, if you're needing more than 1/4000s at f1.4 it's pretty likely that the light is really harsh, not going to be flattering to your subject in most scenarios... so of course you could make the argument of "sometimes you have no choice", but my counter to that would be "cool, so in those times just stop the lens down..." Fuji X-T3 // Fuji X-Pro2 (Full Spectrum) // Fuji X-H1 // Fuji X-T1
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Sep 15, 2017 12:33 | #24 Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18452969 And if this had been shot at 2.0? Pretty much the same result. I am not saying it is never needed, btw. All I said was: anytime you "want" to shoot 1.4 in daytime you need 1/8000. A7rIII | A7III | 12-24 F4 | 16-35 GM | 28-75 2.8 | 100-400 GM | 12mm 2.8 Fisheye | 35mm 2.8 | 85mm 1.8 | 35A | 85A | 200mm L F2 IS | MC-11
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Bassat "I am still in my underwear." 8,075 posts Likes: 2742 Joined Oct 2015 More info | Sep 15, 2017 13:01 | #25 Permanent banTalley wrote in post #18453009 All I said was: anytime you "want" to shoot 1.4 in daytime you need 1/8000. I stated fact. Facts tend to be true. The statement above is not. What it is - is (Thanks, Bill!) an oft-repeated internet piece of incorrect wisdom. Much like, "Tomato juice kills skunk spray." Both belong on the list of 101 thing you 'know' that are not true.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Sep 15, 2017 13:10 | #26 Bassat wrote in post #18453030 Facts tend to be true. The statement above is not. What it is - is (Thanks, Bill!) an oft-repeated internet piece of incorrect wisdom. Much like, "Tomato juice kills skunk spray." Both belong on the list of 101 thing you 'know' that are not true. It would be a bit more true to say, "Often, in bright, harsh sunlight you will need a faster than 1/4000 shutter speed, or an ND filter to shoot at f/1.4." I'm not sure about Houston; never been there. But in Indiana, I can pretty much shoot 1/4000 at f/2-2.5, even in the harshest bright sun. I'm not spending big money for a 5D3 just for the 3 shots a year I can't get wide open. F/2.5 is not killing me. That's the thing I look at, the 6d has 4000 shutter speed but better low light performance then the 5d3. 5d3 costs 1k+ but with 8000 shutter speed.. both big upgrade from 5d2 of course. just seeing if 4000 shutter speed is a big deal or not. Thanks everybody!
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Sep 15, 2017 13:15 | #27 James Crockett wrote in post #18453038 That's the thing I look at, the 6d has 4000 shutter speed but better low light performance then the 5d3. 5d3 costs 1k+ but with 8000 shutter speed.. both big upgrade from 5d2 of course. just seeing if 4000 shutter speed is a big deal or not. Thanks everybody! Not for me. 400 images at 1/8000 but over 1500 above 4000.... this is out of 87,000 photos. Do the math. A7rIII | A7III | 12-24 F4 | 16-35 GM | 28-75 2.8 | 100-400 GM | 12mm 2.8 Fisheye | 35mm 2.8 | 85mm 1.8 | 35A | 85A | 200mm L F2 IS | MC-11
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Bassat "I am still in my underwear." 8,075 posts Likes: 2742 Joined Oct 2015 More info | Sep 15, 2017 13:18 | #28 Permanent banJames Crockett wrote in post #18453038 That's the thing I look at, the 6d has 4000 shutter speed but better low light performance then the 5d3. 5d3 costs 1k+ but with 8000 shutter speed.. both big upgrade from 5d2 of course. just seeing if 4000 shutter speed is a big deal or not. Thanks everybody! If I need 1/8000, I can always use my 80D. But that defeats the idea of shooting wide open for DOF control. Just because 1/4000 does not bother me, does not mean it won't bother you, at least once in a while. Choose... wisely. You don't want to be disappointed in such a large purchase.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Sep 15, 2017 13:24 | #29 Bassat wrote in post #18453042 If I need 1/8000, I can always use my 80D. But that defeats the idea of shooting wide open for DOF control. Just because 1/4000 does not bother me, does not mean it won't bother you, at least once in a while. Choose... wisely. You don't want to be disappointed in such a large purchase. Or you could just keep the 5D2 for those 1/8000 days. Even the 5D2 can focus in bright light. ![]() true. I just hate the low light performance isn't that great but it's an older camera though. thanks!
LOG IN TO REPLY |
LeftHandedBrisket Combating camera shame since 1977... More info Post edited over 6 years ago by Left Handed Brisket. | Sep 15, 2017 13:51 | #30 Talley wrote in post #18453009 All I said was: anytime you "want" to shoot 1.4 in daytime you need 1/8000. I stated fact. don't make me bust out my CPL and shoot at 1/4000 1.4!!! James Crockett wrote in post #18453038 That's the thing I look at, the 6d has 4000 shutter speed but better low light performance then the 5d3. 5d3 costs 1k+ but with 8000 shutter speed.. both big upgrade from 5d2 of course. just seeing if 4000 shutter speed is a big deal or not. Thanks everybody! So lets look at your original question James Crockett wrote in post #18452313 Do you really need 8000 shutter speed? Thanks and take care. some are answering whether they themselves NEED it. Some are answering in more broad terms as if it is EVER needed. PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20
LOG IN TO REPLY |
![]() | x 1600 |
| y 1600 |
| Log in Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!
|
| ||
| Latest registered member is semonsters 1484 guests, 129 members online Simultaneous users record so far is 15,144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018 | |||