Spot metering with different lighting on subject's face

Using a 5DM3 in Spot Metering mode and shooting a portrait of a fair skinned person in uneven lighting.

As I use the Spot Meter on different portions of the subject’s face, the meter changes based on the different lighting that hits the subject. I understand that this can be a creative decision, though generally, how do you determine where the meter should be on the subjects face when some portions will be darker and some lighter based on the different lighting? How do you determine which area should be within the midtone area and which should be within the highlight area? shadow? etc.

Thanks.

Whatever you point it at, the meter is going to think it's seeing a midtone RGB 128 gray (more or less). So point it at whatever you want to be a midtone.
Run some test shots until you get used to it.

southwestform wrote in post #18467546
I understand that this can be a creative decision, though generally, how do you determine where the meter should be on the subjects face when some portions will be darker and some lighter based on the different lighting?

It is a creative decision, end of. You need to know what kind of image you want and then meter/set the camera accordingly. We can't tell you which area you should meter off because we have no idea (and neither does you camera) of what style of portrait you are taking and what elements are important to you.

Ultimately if you can't get the shot you want with the light that is available you need to move the subject to a location with better light, shoot at a different time or change the light by using reflectors and artificial lights (flash/strobes).

Evaluative metering is a pretty sophisticated form of metering that takes your AF point and color weighting into account. I bring it up, because I think it can be an easier metering mode (and is pretty good with the 5D3). Though it can be "tricked" into not knowing what subject you want if you have a scene that's overly bright, dark, or back-lit. I used to do more spot metering (back when I had the 5Dc), but these days I do more evaluative (for some scenes I'll switch modes or have specific EC values). If the scene is evenly lit, fair skinned people will be exposed properly. For African Americans, I've found I might need to EC +1.

If you do want to learn spot metering, directly metering fair skin is too bright: usual rule of thumb is to dial down a stop. Though when I'm really analytical with spot metering, I'll take in the whole scene (take in values of bright, mid-tones, and darker tones...and then figure the best compromise). I think it can also initially be challenging to figure out how a real world color scene might look as reflective black and white. Certain colors and saturations might actual be darker then what you'd think.

As pointed out, reflected light metering of the face largely amounts to 'subjective goal of the photographer'. The Caucasian face might be nicely tanned (after Spring skiing or summer surfing) to match the tonality of 18% gray card, or it might be about +1EV brighter than gray card during the deepest dark of Winter. So whether you expose for the shadows, or your expose for the highlights depends upon whether you are shooting color neg, or you are shooting digital or color transparency, or merely trying to make the photo suit a particular mood (or even the lighting falling on the face...contrasty lighting vs. low contrast lighting might entail different approaches.

Read and absorb all the comments above but here is a specific strategy:

1) pick the brightest spot on the face, i.e. the highlight, that you want to be the highlight, and set the exposure meter, while spot metering this spot, to be a highlight - i.e. 'about' +1 1/2 to +2 EV above midtone

2) you can do the same as above, but with the darkest / shadow on the face, that you want to be a shadow, i.e. -1 1/2 to -2 EV below midtone


This is all an artistic choice as mentioned above - but that is how to spot meter

As a wedding photog, as an example, you can spot meter a white dress - and set the exposure with this being your white, with 1/3 to 1/2 stop protection so that it doesn't blow out - at around +2 1/2 EV (basically the strategy mentioned above but picking the wedding dress as white not the face highlight)


Another way to do all of this, and to show you why - it really is an artistic choice, is to put your camera into liveview mode and just set your exposure how you, the photog, want it to look - i.e. you aren't metering anything - you are choosing your final image in its entirety - once you see the image you want, note the settings and turn off liveview and shoot away

In the "old" days, and when something like an 85mm was used for portraiture, we used to meter off the back of the photographer's hand. And generally speaking we didn't have tools like Photoshop to tweak things later.

The 5D models don't have the multi-spot metering from the 1D-series, as far as I know. Otherwise that's handy.

John from PA wrote in post #18467702
In the "old" days, and when something like an 85mm was used for portraiture, we used to meter off the back of the photographer's hand. And generally speaking we didn't have tools like Photoshop to tweak things later.

Just to "pick a nit", did you know that the palm of your hand doesn't tan? Which is why I use it here: Need an exposure crutch?

'Tis been discussed before. See here: https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=18424396

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18467751
Just to "pick a nit", did you know that the palm of your hand doesn't tan? Which is why I use it here: Need an exposure crutch?

That is because the palm actually has a relatively thick layer of dead skin that prevents most UV light from reaching the appropriate cells that produce melanin which causes tanning. For the same reason, you can also use the bottom of your foot but I won't since that is not accomplished gracefully at my age!

Almost anywhere you find discussion of the hand technique, the process involves more or less a calibration process of comparing the hand to a gray card and establishing the difference which is then noted moving forward. All the techniques of years ago are just guidelines but in film days would bail one out when you had a dead meter or a fully manual camera.

One also has to watch out when using a gray card or you could miss by a 1/2 stop...see https://www.adorama.co​m/catalog.tpl?op=artic​le_050503.

John from PA wrote in post #18468901
For the same reason, you can also use the bottom of your foot...

Depends upon how fequently you wash them...

Now that is real chimping because you would have to be one to do that.

Generally speaking, do not add exposure images of African-Americans. The exception would be extremely dark-skinned persons in contrasty lighting when you want shadow detail. Otherwise, expose normally and control contrast through lighting.

John from PA wrote in post #18468901
That is because the palm actually has a relatively thick layer of dead skin that prevents most UV light from reaching the appropriate cells that produce melanin which causes tanning. For the same reason, you can also use the bottom of your foot but I won't since that is not accomplished gracefully at my age!

Yet OTOH, the palm is not pigmented even in dark-skinned races! which is why the palm is the universal reference of +1EV (vs. the 18% gray card)