kaitanium wrote in post #18483656
I have heard mixed reports of the fuji being good and being bad for events which is why im asking around to see what people have experience in. Canon is rock solid for sure which is why all these years i have not wanted to switch (other than to nikon). Whichever smaller system i switch to it must at least be good as my days of old 5d2. im not expecting it to match my 5d3 performance. Im more concerned about reliability of low light operations than pic quality or anything else. Fuji pics are nice, but that sort of nice is nothing if it cant focus in dim situations with or without beam assist
There is no mirrorless camera that can use IRAF assist, even your Canon DSLR cannot use it in live view. The best you can get is Godox's red AF laser assist. That works OK and I've found the TT685f to be reliable, in the limited time I've used it. I have and do use their bigger AD600 a lot and that is rock solid flash after flash after flash, so I'm hoping for the same in the speedlight.
I dropped my Canon 5D3's when the X-PRO2 came out and with Fuji giving lots of updates via firmware it has only gotten better with time, for me. I was never a manual focuser with my 5D3, outside of video, as the viewfinder has no focus aids. With the Fuji I have loads of help and in reality it is very easy to use. Although I generally find that, in the events that I shoot, there is usually enough light for the camera to lock on fast enough. The right lenses play a big part in that too, any of the Fuji lenses the have a linear motor are very fast, the ones with LM in the name like the XF 16-55mm f/2.8 R LM WR Lens will help you out there.
One point to correct Alan when he said "I will have to say its incredibly difficult to manual focus in low light when you cannot see your subjects clearly in a viewfinder"
There is a setting in the menu to allow you to turn off/on the WB &/or exposure preview, with it on you see the exposure in the EVF live so you can see how dark or bright the image will be, like looking at the image after you shot it. Turn that off and you get a bright view of the subject regardless of the settings of the camera. This is how you need to shoot in the dark with flash, in essence the camera can 'see in the dark' something a DSLR cannot do.
Really you should probably ask your self why you are looking to change to shooting Fuji and see if the strengths are there for your needs. I've shot events in some very challenging light, including inside an ice cave [for Coors/Molson] and the Fuji cameras did a good job. I didn't need a DSLR and still haven't found a time where I said to myself, oh if only I had brought a 5D3 with me, not once.
For me the TTL/HSS flash was the last piece of the puzzle, the Nissin flash was good but the Godox system is better. See if you can have a play with an X-E3 as that has the latest development in AF, the other cameras are getting the same AF over the next couple of months via Fuji wonderful commitment to continually improving their cameras through updates.