Light room and exporting eos files

There is an option when exporting that is checked by default, sharpen for glossy print or sharpen for screen. If I like the way they look after I process them, am I unchecking this box altogether? It's kind of confusing. Also, I've read that people adjust exposure. I find if I adjust exposure up at all with indoor photos and no flash they become noisy.

Frodge wrote in post #18483270
Also, I've read that people adjust exposure. I find if I adjust exposure up at all with indoor photos and no flash they become noisy.

Can't offer much help on the LR issue but what ISO are you using for "indoor photos and no flash they become noisy." One thing I have found is you have to have a reasonably well exposed image to begin with. "Pulling" light out of shadows and poorly lit available light creates noise. Plain and simple, if "light" isn't in areas to begin with, you likely can't create a good situation.

Frodge wrote in post #18483270
There is an option when exporting that is checked by default, sharpen for glossy print or sharpen for screen. If I like the way they look after I process them, am I unchecking this box altogether?

I would say, try it and see.

Frodge wrote in post #18483270
There is an option when exporting that is checked by default, sharpen for glossy print or sharpen for screen. If I like the way they look after I process them, am I unchecking this box altogether?

How sharp an image appears to be will alter depending on the medium. A full size image on the computer won't be the same a one resized down to 1024 pixels wide for posting on the internet, or one upsized for printing on a giant piece of fine art paper.

LR's export sharpening is designed to take these differences into account and will sharpen differently depending on the output format (print or screen) and the image file size.

That is because your indoor images are underexposed.

While indoor lighting may be fine for the human eye it seldom provides enough light for photography. As a result you usually have to shoot at high ISO (if you want to maintain a reasonable shutter speed) and that creates noise. This noise will become more obvious if you raise the exposure or shadows in post. It can be mitigated slightly by applying noise reduction but if overdone this will adversely affect the sharpness/detail of the image.

If you want to avoid the issue your only alternative is to add more light - by using a fast lens with an aperture of 2.8 or wider, a slower shutter speed, or a flash.

For the most part, ISO does not cause noise. Underexposure causes way more noise when being lifted than any ISO setting. I've been using ISO 6400 with no fear since the 60D. I can shoot JPG with my 6D 12800 and get files I can clean up sufficiently in LR. Most shots I take above ISO 800 are +EC and/or +FEC. Raw helps a lot, too.

With Canon cameras, even the latest sensors, you should always increase the ISO, without using the expanded values, so that you do not underexpose in the camera with your chosen shutter speed and aperture combination. Pushing the exposure by one stop in post is generally always worse than increasing the cameras analogue gain by one stop. In the older bodies I have I would actually say that using ISO 3200 correctly exposed produces better results than ISO 100 pushed one stop in post. I actually go further than that in that I Expose To The Right. When using ETTR you attempt to maximise the exposure for any ISO value so that you expose for the brightest highlight that you want to keep. You then bring the exposure down in post. This will minimise the noise in the image, without the need for any noise control. Of course although you have the best possible starting point for noise when using ETTR you may still need to use some NR.

Dan's explanation of Lr Export Sharpening is spot on. one thing that you should be aware of is that when using the Print sharpening options you should set the DPI/PPI value in the export dialogue to match the intended output resolution of the printer, as well as the paper type and strength. The algorithm that calculates the exact amount of sharpening to apply takes the DPI/PPI setting into account for printing. So although it normally doesn't matter what value you use once the file has been created, Lr does use it.

This only affects the level of sharpening for Print, if you select Screen the DPI/PPI value makes no difference, you just have to set some value. Personally I usually set it to 100, since it is close to the PPI value for the average monitor. Also if I see a JPEG floating around on my system I will know that it was sharpened for screen with that value. The lowest PPI that I can think of that would be passed to a printing device is 150 PPI for canvas prints.

Alan