Is the canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM good enough for indoor wallet size portraits or do I need a L lens? Which L lens should I purchase? Thanks
I have the 20D with 18-55 kit
o2happpy Member 72 posts Joined Mar 2006 Location: Philly More info | Mar 18, 2006 20:05 | #1 Is the canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM good enough for indoor wallet size portraits or do I need a L lens? Which L lens should I purchase? Thanks Canon 60D
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cdifoto Don't get pissy with me 34,090 posts Likes: 44 Joined Dec 2005 More info | Mar 18, 2006 20:09 | #2 The only issue you'd have with that lens for portraits would be obtaining creamy background blur. It has a relatively slow maximum aperture (f/5.6) at the long end (85mm) where you'd want to shoot portraits. As for inherent quality, it'd be more than enough for wallet size prints. Did you lose Digital Photo Professional (DPP)? Get it here
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ScottE Goldmember 3,179 posts Likes: 3 Joined Oct 2004 Location: Kelowna, Canada More info | Mar 18, 2006 21:53 | #3 The only other thing you need is a background that won't distract from the photos.
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Mar 19, 2006 00:54 | #4 actually the background will need to stand out. The background will be lighted and will glow which makes the pictures very nice. Canon 60D
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KevC Goldmember 3,154 posts Joined Jan 2005 Location: to More info | Mar 19, 2006 01:29 | #5 For wallet sized portraits, anything should be ok. As long as it's long and fast enough (85 at 5.6 SHOULD be okay, as long as the subject is sufficiently far away from the background) Too much gear...
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DragosJianu Goldmember 1,768 posts Likes: 15 Joined Sep 2005 More info | That EFS is possibly the worst choice for portraits. Very sharp but basically blind at f/5.6. Not to mention the huge DoF. 50 1.8 or, better still 85 1.8. Once you've shot f/2 you will never want to go back to a horribly slow zoom with enough DoF to be mistaken for a P&S.
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cdifoto Don't get pissy with me 34,090 posts Likes: 44 Joined Dec 2005 More info | Dragos Jianu wrote: That EFS is possibly the worst choice for portraits. Very sharp but basically blind at f/5.6. Not to mention the huge DoF. 50 1.8 or, better still 85 1.8. Once you've shot f/2 you will never want to go back to a horribly slow zoom with enough DoF to be mistaken for a P&S. Unless those portraits are outdoors, f/5.6 would be fine. Most people stop down for studio shots anyway since that's pretty much the only way to control exposure other than actually adjusting the lights themselves. Keep in mind these are wallet size prints and the OP has already stated they want the background in focus... Did you lose Digital Photo Professional (DPP)? Get it here
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Mar 19, 2006 03:21 | #8 what is a focal lenth of the 50 1.8 on a 20D say from 10-15 ft away? Anyone has any example pictures of that? also the 85 1.8 example too if anyone has them. thanks Canon 60D
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ScottE Goldmember 3,179 posts Likes: 3 Joined Oct 2004 Location: Kelowna, Canada More info | Dragos Jianu wrote: That EFS is possibly the worst choice for portraits. Very sharp but basically blind at f/5.6. Not to mention the huge DoF. 50 1.8 or, better still 85 1.8. Once you've shot f/2 you will never want to go back to a horribly slow zoom with enough DoF to be mistaken for a P&S. Could someone please explain to me how a lens can be very sharp but basically blind? The two terms seem to be contradictory.
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DragosJianu Goldmember 1,768 posts Likes: 15 Joined Sep 2005 More info | Could someone please explain to me how a lens can be very sharp but basically blind? At f/5.6 a lens is "blind". At least for my standards. The amount of light it swallows has nothing to do with sharpness. What didn't you understand ? whiy is huge DoF such a horrible disadvantage? Because we don't always have "a decent backdrop place a suitable distance behind the model". Are we trying to get a photo where the eye is sharp but the nose and ears are soft? As long as we are not hired to do mug shots for the police why not? The freedom of the "Artist" can be fun. Just try it.
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Sugarh1gh Member 107 posts Joined Dec 2005 Location: Boston, MA More info |
DragosJianu Goldmember 1,768 posts Likes: 15 Joined Sep 2005 More info | Here are pics I took with each for comparison... #1: 17-85 at 85mm f/5.6 #2 50 at f/1.4 No offence but some proper portraits would have been more useful. Your examples are not well suited to real life portrait work. It depends on the setting and the light, it can sometimes be done with a zoom at 50 f/5.6 (i should know
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Sugarh1gh Member 107 posts Joined Dec 2005 Location: Boston, MA More info | I was just giving a point for comparison... didn't say it was perfect.
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cdi-ink.com wrote: Unless those portraits are outdoors, f/5.6 would be fine. Most people stop down for studio shots anyway since that's pretty much the only way to control exposure other than actually adjusting the lights themselves. Keep in mind these are wallet size prints and the OP has already stated they want the background in focus... Here is an example of a studio picture I want to take. This picture was taken by a nikon 35mm camera at f/11 90 with a main light and a fill light and background light with a blue filter. The ef 50 1.4 lens should be sufficient using the 20D, correct? And what lighting equipment is good for the use with digital cameras? And if I want a soft look should I use a soft filter or use photoshop? hope you can help thanks. Canon 60D
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SkipD Cream of the Crop 20,476 posts Likes: 165 Joined Dec 2002 Location: Southeastern WI, USA More info | Dragos Jianu wrote: At f/5.6 a lens is "blind". At least for my standards. The amount of light it swallows has nothing to do with sharpness. What didn't you understand ? I don't understand this statement at all. Would you please elaborate as to what you are talking about? The "blind" term doesn't make sense to me at all. Skip Douglas
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