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Thread started 18 Mar 2006 (Saturday) 20:05
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Is the canon EF-S 17-85mm good for portraits

 
o2happpy
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Mar 18, 2006 20:05 |  #1

Is the canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM good enough for indoor wallet size portraits or do I need a L lens? Which L lens should I purchase? Thanks

I have the 20D with 18-55 kit


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cdifoto
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Mar 18, 2006 20:09 |  #2

The only issue you'd have with that lens for portraits would be obtaining creamy background blur. It has a relatively slow maximum aperture (f/5.6) at the long end (85mm) where you'd want to shoot portraits. As for inherent quality, it'd be more than enough for wallet size prints.


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ScottE
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Mar 18, 2006 21:53 |  #3

The only other thing you need is a background that won't distract from the photos.




  
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o2happpy
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Mar 19, 2006 00:54 |  #4

actually the background will need to stand out. The background will be lighted and will glow which makes the pictures very nice.


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KevC
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Mar 19, 2006 01:29 |  #5

For wallet sized portraits, anything should be ok. As long as it's long and fast enough (85 at 5.6 SHOULD be okay, as long as the subject is sufficiently far away from the background)

However, if you'll be shooting portraits I'd suggest investing in a fast prime (50/1.8 at the very least)


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Dragos ­ Jianu
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Mar 19, 2006 02:05 as a reply to  @ KevC's post |  #6

That EFS is possibly the worst choice for portraits. Very sharp but basically blind at f/5.6. Not to mention the huge DoF. 50 1.8 or, better still 85 1.8. Once you've shot f/2 you will never want to go back to a horribly slow zoom with enough DoF to be mistaken for a P&S.




  
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cdifoto
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Mar 19, 2006 02:11 as a reply to  @ Dragos Jianu's post |  #7

Dragos Jianu wrote:
That EFS is possibly the worst choice for portraits. Very sharp but basically blind at f/5.6. Not to mention the huge DoF. 50 1.8 or, better still 85 1.8. Once you've shot f/2 you will never want to go back to a horribly slow zoom with enough DoF to be mistaken for a P&S.

Unless those portraits are outdoors, f/5.6 would be fine. Most people stop down for studio shots anyway since that's pretty much the only way to control exposure other than actually adjusting the lights themselves. Keep in mind these are wallet size prints and the OP has already stated they want the background in focus...


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o2happpy
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Mar 19, 2006 03:21 |  #8

what is a focal lenth of the 50 1.8 on a 20D say from 10-15 ft away? Anyone has any example pictures of that? also the 85 1.8 example too if anyone has them. thanks


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ScottE
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Mar 19, 2006 11:44 as a reply to  @ Dragos Jianu's post |  #9

Dragos Jianu wrote:
That EFS is possibly the worst choice for portraits. Very sharp but basically blind at f/5.6. Not to mention the huge DoF. 50 1.8 or, better still 85 1.8. Once you've shot f/2 you will never want to go back to a horribly slow zoom with enough DoF to be mistaken for a P&S.

Could someone please explain to me how a lens can be very sharp but basically blind? The two terms seem to be contradictory.

Also, as long as you have a decent backdrop place a suitable distance behind the model, whiy is huge DoF such a horrible disadvantage? Are we trying to get a photo where the eye is sharp but the nose and ears are soft?




  
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Dragos ­ Jianu
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Mar 19, 2006 13:44 as a reply to  @ ScottE's post |  #10

Could someone please explain to me how a lens can be very sharp but basically blind?

At f/5.6 a lens is "blind". At least for my standards. The amount of light it swallows has nothing to do with sharpness. What didn't you understand ?

whiy is huge DoF such a horrible disadvantage?

Because we don't always have "a decent backdrop place a suitable distance behind the model".

Are we trying to get a photo where the eye is sharp but the nose and ears are soft?

As long as we are not hired to do mug shots for the police why not? The freedom of the "Artist" can be fun. Just try it.

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just f/2.8 because the lighting was not good enough to allow perfect manual focusing. An 85mm 1.2 L whould be even more fun ;)

Show me some of your portraits so I can understand what you are talking about.

http://www.photo.net/p​hotos/Dragos Jianu

Since the OP doesn't yet own the EF-S 17-85 I think it is safe to recommend, for the same $$, a combination of one or two of the following lenses 35 f2 / 50 f1.4 / 85 f1.8. That is if he is really into portraits. Even the 50 f1.4 would be enough, better and much cheaper then that horribly slow EF-S. Oh, wait, who care about f5.6 as long as it has IS. I'm so yesterday...




  
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Sugarh1gh
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Mar 19, 2006 14:00 as a reply to  @ Dragos Jianu's post |  #11

Here are pics I took with each for comparison...
#1: 17-85 at 85mm f/5.6
#2 50 at f/1.4


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Dragos ­ Jianu
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Mar 19, 2006 14:19 as a reply to  @ Sugarh1gh's post |  #12

Here are pics I took with each for comparison...
#1: 17-85 at 85mm f/5.6
#2 50 at f/1.4

No offence but some proper portraits would have been more useful. Your examples are not well suited to real life portrait work. It depends on the setting and the light, it can sometimes be done with a zoom at 50 f/5.6 (i should know :( ), but i would pick a 50 1.4 prime any day. My zooms have become dust magnets lately.




  
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Sugarh1gh
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Mar 19, 2006 14:21 as a reply to  @ Dragos Jianu's post |  #13

I was just giving a point for comparison... didn't say it was perfect.




  
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o2happpy
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Mar 19, 2006 19:13 as a reply to  @ cdifoto's post |  #14

cdi-ink.com wrote:
Unless those portraits are outdoors, f/5.6 would be fine. Most people stop down for studio shots anyway since that's pretty much the only way to control exposure other than actually adjusting the lights themselves. Keep in mind these are wallet size prints and the OP has already stated they want the background in focus...

Here is an example of a studio picture I want to take. This picture was taken by a nikon 35mm camera at f/11 90 with a main light and a fill light and background light with a blue filter. The ef 50 1.4 lens should be sufficient using the 20D, correct? And what lighting equipment is good for the use with digital cameras? And if I want a soft look should I use a soft filter or use photoshop? hope you can help thanks.

The picture is a little blurry, I didn't have a scanner so I use my camera to take the pic.


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Canon 60D
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50mm 1.4
580 EX Flash

  
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SkipD
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Mar 19, 2006 20:41 as a reply to  @ Dragos Jianu's post |  #15

Dragos Jianu wrote:
At f/5.6 a lens is "blind". At least for my standards. The amount of light it swallows has nothing to do with sharpness. What didn't you understand ?

I don't understand this statement at all. Would you please elaborate as to what you are talking about? The "blind" term doesn't make sense to me at all.


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