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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 02 Jan 2018 (Tuesday) 08:00
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First monolight. Godox. But which one?

 
soeren
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Jan 28, 2018 02:33 as a reply to  @ post 18550519 |  #106

Yes the bigger the source relative to the subject the softer the light.
The closer the bigger and the further away the smaller.
But. There is a limit to how big a box(area) speedlights can iluminate evenly so when you reach that limit it will make no difference to the softness that you choose an even bigger box.
What eats your power is mainly diffusion material and wide zoom of the speedlight, though some of the latter will still be reflected by the sides of the box.




  
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Phil ­ V
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Jan 28, 2018 02:33 |  #107

Levina de Ruijter wrote in post #18550519 (external link)
Right. That makes sense. I'm looking at softboxes now but not sure what to get. Is it the bigger the thing, the more the light is spread and softened? And what do the different shapes do? I mean I kinda understand how a round one would be good for portraits and a long rectangular for full body shots, but what would be good for tabletop photography? Square maybe? I'm looking into this now and bookmarked a few articles for further reading, like this one: https://www.adorama.co​m …nding-How-Soft-Boxes-Work (external link)

I do wonder how much a softbox is going to affect the power of a speedlight. I mean it's not too powerful a light and boxing it in like that? Is that a consideration when buying? What kind of softbox would be a nice first purchase for tabletop photography (still lifes, me goofing around having fun)?

That must be it! :lol:

The general rule is the bigger the better, but you’re working within space confines.

The rounder the box, the more natural the catchlights. Softboxes effectively mimic windowlight, so large square ones are great for still life. Narrow strip boxes were invented for lighting bottles, and they’re great for rimlighting but theres other uses too.

The issue with speedlights and softboxes is that the speedlight already has a focus system built in, it’s designed to directly light something, pointing it at the front of a softbox creates a hot spot, softboxes are designed for bare bulb flashes, this can be mitigated, but it’s good to understand how light works.


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soeren
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Jan 28, 2018 02:49 |  #108

It's probably been recommended already and then Ill second that. If not I highly recommend the book light science and magic.

https://www.amazon.co.​uk …hotographic/dp/​0240812255 (external link)




  
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Levina ­ de ­ Ruijter
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Jan 28, 2018 10:41 |  #109

Thanks very much for all the information, Jark, soeren and Phil. Very helpful!

And, soeren, the book, I have it. Bought it a few years ago. Forgot all about it. Time to do some reading!


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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Jan 28, 2018 10:54 |  #110

Jark89 wrote in post #18550636 (external link)
various weird small DIY stuff that'll you'll probably need to make on the fly.

Yup.

Black and white foam core, and even cardboard covered in aluminum foil.

24" to 36" (1m = 39") softboxes work well with speedlights, especially if they have an inner diffusion layer. Flags easily manipulate size and shape.


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soeren
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Jan 30, 2018 12:38 |  #111

Robert Hall just uploaded a video in his YouTube Chanel regarding the different studio strobes series from godox




  
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Levina ­ de ­ Ruijter
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Jan 30, 2018 12:58 as a reply to  @ soeren's post |  #112

Thanks for the heads up, soeren. I just watched it. He sums it up nicely but I don't think he came up for air once. ;-)a


Levina
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jlafferty
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Jan 30, 2018 13:27 as a reply to  @ Levina de Ruijter's post |  #113

Hahaha. I'm a fan of Rob's work. Fair and reasonable reviews from someone actually using the stuff.


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First monolight. Godox. But which one?
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