What camera for infrared conversion in 2018?

I've searched previous threads here but discussions are 6 years old and there are a lot newer options today. I'm a Canon shooter but not opposed to picking up a second system. Read through a lot of Life Pixel's website and they say mirrorless is ideal for on-sensor focusing. I like the idea of a Fuji moreso than a Sony. Primary use will be landscapes shot midday, and I'm thinking of the super color conversion since its supposedly the most versatile without use of filters. But most mirrorless Fuji's are about 16mpx and $1,000 with no lens. I could grab a Canon M5, but then I'd need to drop $200 just on an EF lens converter if I want to use the likes of my 24-70 f/4L IS or 16-35 F/4L IS. Both great lenses that I think would be great to use. So that kinda brings me back to Canon. Since I could get a 77D for say $700 I think that's the most cost effective way to go, but then I'd have to use live view. For what its worth I prefer bigger body cameras and never really liked the idea of the smallish buttons on a camera. Comments?

Thanks!

Silver-Halide wrote in post #18536827
Since I could get a 77D for say $700 I think that's the most cost effective way to go, but then I'd have to use live view.

If the camera is properly converted, it should focus just fine so I'm not sure what you mean "have to use liveview" ?

Not sure myself. AFAIK they can calibrate the camera to a lens, but only to one specific focal length(?). IIRC it has to do with the fact that infrared and visible light don't focus at the same wavelengths or something.

To be honest, I don't think this would be a problem for landscape photography - I didn't do any sort of calibration or adjustment at all when I converted my 1D2, and so long as I have a decent depth of field aperture (f/8 etc) , all looks good. Probably cameras that do microadjust would be useful if you're needing to shoot very thin dof, but not sure if this is really needed for what you're wanting?

I do know that my 1D2 camera isn't terribly accurate when focusing, but I haven't been bothered with the results enough to pull the camera apart and change the sensor plane to get it any closer to where it should be. I modified a 10D previously, and that was fairly similar.

If I see a 1D3 cheap enough, I might upgrade...

(10D at f/8 example below)

joeseph wrote in post #18539900
To be honest, I don't think this would be a problem for landscape photography - I didn't do any sort of calibration or adjustment at all when I converted my 1D2, and so long as I have a decent depth of field aperture (f/8 etc) , all looks good. Probably cameras that do microadjust would be useful if you're needing to shoot very thin dof, but not sure if this is really needed for what you're wanting?

I do know that my 1D2 camera isn't terribly accurate when focusing, but I haven't been bothered with the results enough to pull the camera apart and change the sensor plane to get it any closer to where it should be. I modified a 10D previously, and that was fairly similar.

If I see a 1D3 cheap enough, I might upgrade...

(10D at f/8 example below)

Hosted photo: posted by joeseph in
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forum: Still Life, B/W & Experimental

Thanks. Nope, lots of DOF is fine, as It will be a landscape camera.

I have had a canon 50D converted, and this is from last weekend with a 10‑18mm f4.5‑5.6 EFs IS STM attached

Cool thanks. Have you had any problems with IR hot spots on that lens?

You don't need to worry about hotspots on lenses with a converted camera. When people talk about the hotspots, they're talking about using filters that filter out everything else but IR and since unconverted cameras have the IR blocking filter on the sensor, they have to go to pretty high shutter speeds which may cause issues with hotspots being focused onto the sensor.

::Edit::
Let me clarify - IR hotspots are still a concern but less so when you can operate the camera without needing minutes per exposure on a tripod like you would if you used filters on an unconverted camera. You would be able to see the hot spot pretty fast (on liveview or review) and adjust your aperture or framing to remove it. I treat hotspots on IR much like sunspots / flaring in normal photography - move the angle or change the aperture or shade the lens as needed.

No problem at all with hotspots with my converted 50D, and have used Canon 18-200, 24mm pancake and 10-18 EFS.

Just sent my old 7D to Spencers Camera to have it converted. Looking forward to getting out and playing with it in about another week when it returns.

fwiw, I've heard that the SL1 (or 2) is at the top of the currently "favored" Canon bodies for IR conversion.