Studio Light on a Mic Scissor Bomm?

I have a couple of scissor type desk lamps which I use for desktop photography.

While the arms are fine, the sockets are dubious for the 300w equivalent CFLs that I use.

Standard studio sockets would be much better, but far less flexible on conventional light stands.

There are numerous affordable scissor type mic stands which clamp to a tabletop. Can a lamp socket be substituted for the mic holder? If so, how?

Hi, Assuming we are talking about this sort of 'Scissor Boom';
https://www.amazon.co.​uk …or-Included/dp/B00DY1F2CS

" .. Can a lamp socket be substituted for the mic holder? If so, how?"

Yes, probably; you'd just need an adaptor to fit the bright pin at the top of the Boom, converting that to match a 5/8th in receiver on nearly all light fittings.

But those table mounted Scissor Booms are designed with a very specific 'payload' in mind. Most light setups are going to be heavier than a microphone.

A GripHead and 20 or 40 in Extension arm (Kupo's 'Hex' variety) supported by a lightstand (or multiples of that) would still be my preference.

There are specialty products designed specifically for studio lighting

https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com …o_Studio_Rail_S​ystem.html

https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com …1BhQjFEAQYBCABE​gKGVvD_BwE

Wilt wrote in post #18551077
There are specialty products designed specifically for studio lighting

https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com …o_Studio_Rail_S​ystem.html

https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com …1BhQjFEAQYBCABE​gKGVvD_BwE

Those are neat, but I rent. Those are never going to be installed in my apartment.

OceanRipple* wrote in post #18550859
Hi, Assuming we are talking about this sort of 'Scissor Boom';
https://www.amazon.co.​uk …or-Included/dp/B00DY1F2CS

" .. Can a lamp socket be substituted for the mic holder? If so, how?"

Yes, probably; you'd just need an adaptor to fit the bright pin at the top of the Boom, converting that to match a 5/8th in receiver on nearly all light fittings.

But those table mounted Scissor Booms are designed with a very specific 'payload' in mind. Most light setups are going to be heavier than a microphone.

A GripHead and 20 or 40 in Extension arm (Kupo's 'Hex' variety) supported by a lightstand (or multiples of that) would still be my preference.

I already use similar "architect lamps".

The arms aren't a problem with the 300w equivalent CFLs that I use.

The problem is that they aren't made for bulbs the size of the 300w equivalent CFLs. I had to use a socket extender in one of them and it sometimes shorts out.

The photographic lamp sockets don't have the metal housing forward of the switch mechanism, which gets in the way of the CFLs.

I actually bought a couple of small light stands, but I doubt they'll fit on the table top and there isn't room for floor stands. I'm working in my living room and just don't have the space for a lot of big equipment.

Hi, Maybe a photo of the lamp holder issues would help us.

" .. I doubt they'll fit on the table top and there isn't room for floor stands .. ". I see.

Then maybe your solution could be made to work.
Or:
Depending on the total weight of the light fixture .. You could start with a Superclamp on the table edge and attach eg Kupo's Max Arm. That offers a position flexible 5/8th in Stud for the light fitting. If you needed more height, add a solid 5/8th in Alu rod (vertically)(drops into the Hex socket nicely) topped with a Grip-head or radially grooved swivel adaptor (as shown) between the Superclamp and the Max Arm.

Here I have over complicated things to illustrate some of your options. There are alternatives available to use at A,B,C & D - you could, for instance, simply use another length of Alu 16 mm rod between B and D:

OceanRipple* wrote in post #18551543
Hi, Maybe a photo of the lamp holder issues would help us.

" .. I doubt they'll fit on the table top and there isn't room for floor stands .. ". I see.

Then maybe your solution could be made to work.
Or:
Depending on the total weight of the light fixture .. You could start with a Superclamp on the table edge and attach eg Kupo's Max Arm. That offers a position flexible 5/8th in Stud for the light fitting. If you needed more height, add a solid 5/8th in Alu rod (vertically)(drops into the Hex socket nicely) topped with a Grip-head or radially grooved swivel adaptor (as shown) between the Superclamp and the Max Arm.

Here I have over complicated things to illustrate some of your options. There are alternatives available to use at A,B,C & D - you could, for instance, simply use another length of Alu 16 mm rod between B and D:

Hosted photo: posted by OceanRipple* in
./showthread.php?p=185​51543&i=i251374304
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

I have magic arms mounted on T-track on my macro rig to hold flashes. I have my doubts how well sockets with 300w CFLs would do on them.

The architect's lamps do fairly well apart from the actual bulb sockets. This is especially the case with regard to getting distance between the subject and the lamps.

Temma wrote in post #18551868
The architect's lamps do fairly well apart from the actual bulb sockets. This is especially the case with regard to getting distance between the subject and the lamps.

Hi, Photos to illustrate your precise difficulty, might help. Tx

I got my scissor booms, light stands and sockets today.

The adapters didn't come, but I found that a 3/8" coupler nut works just fine as an adapter. They'll need some blue Loctite, but so too would the regular adapters, I imagine.

Looking at the Neewer arms, they don't look any less well made than the lamps I was using.

Here's a picture of the existing CFL lighting. The camera mount is two versions old and long gone. The reflectors are cheap plastic flower pots lined with metallic tape:

That sounds as if you have things up and running - if so, great.

I got the mic booms set up tonight and took my first images with them.

I'll post a picture of the booms later.

Photo from Temma's gallery.
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