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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos Video and Sound Editing 
Thread started 13 Feb 2018 (Tuesday) 13:02
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New to video on 800d..... advice wanted

 
Anto ­ Modded
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Feb 13, 2018 13:02 |  #1

Hi, i got a 800d and a 10-16mm stm canon lense and 18-55mm stm kit lense. Im shooting some video of mountain biking. Will only ever be used for youtube but id like to do the best i can. I use "M" setting and set the white balance. I shoot 25fps so i put the shutter speed to 1/60. When in the woods i go to the lowest f number and and then adjust the iso till i get the meter bar in the center. And when im in sunlight settungs are the same except at f5.6 its too bright at iso 100 so i find at iso 100 i go upto f21 ti get it right. Ive yet to pick up a microphone. So far am i doing right or is the any suggestions if im doing it wrong. Any opinions would be great


  
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SailingAway
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Feb 13, 2018 15:39 |  #2

If you must have shallowest depth of focus... and do realize that is an artistic choice in how you compose shots, not a requirement, (though many internet commenters seem to think otherwise...)

...Add a neutral density (ND) filter or two, or, a variable ND filter, to the front of your lens. This will allow you to get back to the lowest f numbers (largest apertures) in bright sunlight.

That canon ultrawide is a really fun lens. The real fun starts when you get close to your subjects.

Among your lenses you don’t yet have a medium telephoto or long telephoto. Many people would want one to shoot sports.

25p at 1/60th is good! It’s a standard representation of motion. It’s worth experimenting with some higher shutter speeds, say, 1/120th and1/250th to see what those look like as well.

At some point you’ll probably want to fool around with slow motion - use higher shutter speeds there as well.


From the upper left corner of the U.S.
Photos, Video & Pano r us.
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70D, Sigma 8mm, Tokina f2.8 11-16, Canon EF-S f2.8 17-55, Sigma f2.8 50-150 EX OS, Tamron 150-600VC. Gigapan Epic Pro, Nodal Ninja 5 & R10.

  
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Anto ­ Modded
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Feb 13, 2018 18:37 as a reply to  @ SailingAway's post |  #3

From reading i thought higher shutter speeds of 1/160 or 1/250 would leave the subject more jaggady not that id know as i havent tried it. I alsi have a 55 - 250mm but thats still in the box. I ordered a 70 - 200 f2.8 is II fir photos as ill use it for action shots. Ill look into nd filters but the high f number doesnt bother me really. Just thought i might be doing something wrong as im used to photos but not video with dslr. Thanks for your advice.


  
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BigAl007
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Feb 14, 2018 11:08 |  #4

Actually the traditional 180° shutter speed for 25 FPS is 1/50 not 1/60. Having a 180° degree shutter simply means having the shutter open for half the time of the frame advance rate. In old cine cameras they literally had a circular disk with a slot cut in in that rotated at the same revolutions per second as the frame rate. The standard slot would be open for 180°, giving a shutter time of half. This allows just the right amount of blurring of moving subjects for it to look natural when played back at the same fps.

If you shoot at faster than 180° then what happens is the moving parts of the image look sharper than they really ought to. The classic example of this effect was first famously used when filming the opening half hour or so of Saving Private Ryan, but is also used in the series Band of Brothers, and Pacific, to give that very sharp look that we tend to get with the release of lots of adrenaline to the system. In those circumstances our vision becomes heightened, and we can see and react events that would otherwise be beyond our ability to see. So actually the video isn't "jaggedy" it is simply sharper. The effect can be quite good, as long as it's not over used. They often use it in shows like Top Gear when cars are throwing up lots of loose gravel etc, in either slow mo, or normal speed.

When it comes to shooting in bright light using such slow shutter speeds, ISO 100 is actually too fast. This is when a digital camera with native ISO 25 and/or 50 would be very helpful. Personally for what I shoot most lowering the ISO range by two stops would be of great benefit, but preferably not just by building a two stop ND into the body. Ideally with most lenses you want to be shooting one or two stops down for best performance, although for fast primes I guess you really want to be shooting around ƒ/5.6 to ƒ/8. I would not routinely want to be shooting at apertures smaller than ƒ/11. So I would also suggest that investing in some ND filters, or a variable ND which will allow you to control the light entering the camera when you cannot reduced the ISO any more.

I shoot aviation and a lot of the time I need to be able to shoot at 1/160s and slower so that I can get a decent amount of propblur. Some helicopters need shutter speeds of 1/60 to show any significant amount of rotor blur, and again at ISO 100 this can mean shooting at ƒ/22 even on days that are a bit overcast. The one thing that shooting at such small apertures will show you is the amount of sensor dust and other stuff you have on your sensor. It can be pretty horrific, and almost none of it will show if you shoot at ƒ/8 or wider.

Alan


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Spacemunkie
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Feb 14, 2018 20:46 |  #5

I'd be shooting this stuff at 50fps to have the option of slowing the action down to half speed if it was me.

2x fps for your shutter as stated above - so 1/100 @ 50fps.

Neutral density filters are a must have for video. A decent variable ND is well worth investing in.


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Anto ­ Modded
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Feb 15, 2018 18:38 as a reply to  @ Spacemunkie's post |  #6

Yes i will shoot 50fps next time and 169 euro for a tiffan variable nd fulter from 2 - 8 nd....


  
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New to video on 800d..... advice wanted
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