Anyone switched from Canon to Fuji? Question about metering

This might interest you in case you haven't seen it yet:

https://www.fujix-forum.com …-iii-camera-owners.82663/

The forum post summarizes best practices for exposing with X-Trans III sensors.

cug wrote in post #18679048
This might interest you in case you haven't seen it yet:

https://www.fujix-forum.com …-iii-camera-owners.82663/

The forum post summarizes best practices for exposing with X-Trans III sensors.

I think I'm too dumb to understand what he's saying in that post

I get that he's saying use ISO 200 for normal light and ISO 800 for low light, but it seems that if it's very low light, ISO 800 might require a shutter speed so slow that you'll get nothing but motion blur in the resulting photo? What am I missing?

If you shoot raw, you'd underexpose and raise the exposure in post. It often leads to better results than raising in camera.

A lot of this is over complicating things. Just set your aperture for the depth of focus you want, then set your shutter speed for the movement you want and raise your ISO until your image is exposed in the screen either by using the live view EXP/WB preview or the meter or histogram.

Two Hot Shoes wrote in post #18697056
A lot of this is over complicating things. Just set your aperture for the depth of focus you want, then set your shutter speed for the movement you want and raise your ISO until your image is exposed in the screen either by using the live view EXP/WB preview or the meter or histogram.

This is how I usually roll!

deronsizemore wrote in post #18680015
I think I'm too dumb to understand what he's saying in that post

I get that he's saying use ISO 200 for normal light and ISO 800 for low light, but it seems that if it's very low light, ISO 800 might require a shutter speed so slow that you'll get nothing but motion blur in the resulting photo? What am I missing?

Exposure is a trade off between getting the most light falling on the sensor to make a clean image and making stylistic choices like depth of field/zone of acceptable focus (aperture setting) and motion blur or camera shake (shutter speed setting). It may be even more of a compromise if you are not going to add light to the scene you are shooting. You control aperture and shutter speed to determine how much light falls on the sensor - this is exposure. When there is little light you either need to open the aperture to let more light in per unit time and/or keep the shutter open longer to allow whatever light is available to collect on the sensor for optimal exposure. That is it, short of adding light with strobes, or moving the subject closer to a light source (like a window, etc).

ISO is amplification of the signal created by exposure of the sensor to light and affects the brightness of the resulting image; however, ISO does not change how much light falls on the sensor ("exposure").

There is no magic that will permit you to shoot with low light and fast shutter speeds, but a fast lens (large aperture) helps - the trade off is a shallower depth of field/zone of acceptable focus, giving you less wiggle room for focus errors and revealing the limits of a camera's low-light auto-focus system. Even with a fast lens in low light, if you need a fast shutter speed too then the result will often be less than the optimal amount of light collected by the sensor - i.e., an underexposed image. Cranking up ISO to offset underexposure (make your image brighter) will reveal noise in the underexposed data - that is, ISO does nothing to increase the amount of light falling on the sensor (the "signal") - it only amplifies the weak, noisy signal caused by underexposure. X-Trans sensors are, to a certain degree, iso-invariant or "isoless", giving you some flexibility with adjusting ISO in post to suit the shooting conditions and image requirements (this pertains to raw files, not JPEGs).

You cannot have your cake and eat it too, unless you are willing to accept that noise will result. You can test how ISO affects your image quality by shooting an exposure sequence in low light and boosting the exposure in post to assess the noise that results for your particular exposure settings.

Also, exposing for JPEG and exposing for raw file data are usually very different strategies; however, underexposure is usually not optimal for either.

kirk