Backdrops - Paper vs Good Fabric vs Bad Fabric

Context: I shoot in a small studio, and the entire usable length is roughly 17'. I typically shoot @ f/7.1 with 85mm.

Two questions:

1) How do paper and fabric compare, as far as light/texture is concerned?

2) How would an $80 Savage backdrop compare to my $10 Walmart sheet? (Or, can you suggest a better one? I want solid gray.) Especially:
a) Resistance to and ease of erasing wrinkles and waves, etc.
b) Would gray likely be much closer to actual gray?
c) Would I likely notice any difference in lighting/texture?


Thanks!

All meaningless without knowing what your goals are.

7.1? Are you trying to get everything in focus?

Are you shooting people?

Adults?

Kids?

Headshots?

Groups?

Product?

Abstract?

...

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18594536
All meaningless without knowing what your goals are.

...

No groups, products or abstract. Yes to all the others.
Never full length, unless they're on the floor (or smaller children.)

I shoot 7.1 because it's sharper, because I want most of the subject in focus, and to eliminate ambient light.

Examples:

https://www.flickr.com​/photos/129721943@N08/

icor1031 wrote in post #18594530
Context: I shoot in a small studio, and the entire usable length is roughly 17'. I typically shoot @ f/7.1 with 85mm.

Two questions:

1) How do paper and fabric compare, as far as light/texture is concerned?

2) How would an $80 Savage backdrop compare to my $10 Walmart sheet? (Or, can you suggest a better one? I want solid gray.) Especially:
a) Resistance to and ease of erasing wrinkles and waves, etc.
b) Would gray likely be much closer to actual gray?
c) Would I likely notice any difference in lighting/texture?


Thanks!

1) paper is my preferred because I have no patience for wrinkles and look for a "flat" surface. I don't think you need to stop down so much, but if you do, fabric is going to be very difficult to deal with.

2) savage fabric? Or paper? Like I said, I'm a fan of paper. It is much more durable than you might think.

a) lately I've been breaking "rules" with my paper and am happy to not have seen any problems with the shorter rolls. Longer/heavier rolls are a different story.

b) you mean neutral? Probably, depending on the color paper bought.

c) yes

For non-full length shots, do you want it flat grey corner to corner for every shot?

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18594551
For non-full length shots, do you want it flat grey corner to corner for every shot?

You said yes to C. In what way? How will the look differ?

Regarding corner to corner:
The backdrop itself, yes. But, I want to add backlighting with my flash - and not equal brightness throughout. Like in most of my pictures.

I am bandwidth limited at this time and haven't checked your Flickr pics.

Backlighting is having the light behind the subject super bright, like the sunset behind the subject. In a studio situation you would b able to control backlighting.

You want to control the background light relative to the subject?

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #18594603
I am bandwidth limited at this time and haven't checked your Flickr pics.

Backlighting is having the light behind the subject super bright, like the sunset behind the subject. In a studio situation you would b able to control backlighting.

You want to control the background light relative to the subject?

Sorry, background light. I've made that mistake before, and it irritates me when I do.

The light I cast directly on the backdrop.

icor1031 wrote in post #18594530
Context: I shoot in a small studio, and the entire usable length is roughly 17'. I typically shoot @ f/7.1 with 85mm.

Two questions:

1) How do paper and fabric compare, as far as light/texture is concerned?

2) How would an $80 Savage backdrop compare to my $10 Walmart sheet? (Or, can you suggest a better one? I want solid gray.) Especially:
a) Resistance to and ease of erasing wrinkles and waves, etc.
b) Would gray likely be much closer to actual gray?
c) Would I likely notice any difference in lighting/texture?


Thanks!

The answer to 1 and 2 entirely depend on how close your subject is to your background.

The difference in texture/quality is more when it comes into focus. if you keep both savage and walmart sheet out of focus.. and it's one color, and both don't have wrinkles.. it's a moot point. but how long it lasts and keeping wrinkles out all depends on any number of factors (stored or left up? carted around folded or can be rolled up? etc)

b gray staying gray is a factor of color calibration - shooting custom white balance with some sort of standard is the way to keep that gray the right color of gray.

Paper shines when you have a solid set up and can make a sweep for no wrinkles - like your sitting pictures would be much cleaner. But it also will have footprints you will have to tear off and reset the paper, and eventually use it up. Paper is a pain to haul around.

the Savage bg would likely wrinkle less and be more portable, and last longer than the walmart sheet or the paper.

The background light is a whole issue onto itself, and independent of the background used.

I’ve had some good experiences with synthetic backgrounds. It’s from katebackdrops. Easy to work with and to me, the textures are pleasing:

https://savageuniversa​l.com …ess-paper-vs-black-vinyl/

This is what I'm referring to with a difference in material in how the background light looks. Vinyl gives a different look than paper; so, how does paper compare to fabric?

icor1031 wrote in post #18595193
https://savageuniversa​l.com …ess-paper-vs-black-vinyl/

This is what I'm referring to with a difference in material in how the background light looks. Vinyl gives a different look than paper; so, how does paper compare to fabric?

Kinda can’t answer this q.

It depends. Exposure, positioning, distances.. Ive got vinyl, paper and cloth whites. Exposing them can make them all the same. White. Underexposing will be shades of grey to black. It really depends on a bunch of variables.

Maybe a better question is how do you want the background to look? What are you going for, and then easier to say what might do that look that you are looking for.
smooth, even, easy to add gels or gradient - paper.

If you don't do full length, it doesn't need to be on the ground or get stepped upon.

Paper is more forgiving than the $10 sheet if you want smooth and featureless. If you can't notice wrinkles and the sheet is out of focus, you will probably be fine. But if it gets swept to the side and has ripples in it like a curtain, they will show up.

All the studio images in my Instagram are taken with the same gray cloth background. It has a texture painted on it (not prominent but not invisible) and I often have folds in it like a curtain, such as here:

https://www.instagram.​com …en-by=storyinpictures_com

And here:

https://www.instagram.​com …en-by=storyinpictures_com

As you will notice, most look like different colors. I have not changed the texture but I have changed the color.

Obviously I am using the texture.

Background Paper is similar to cloth in that it has a fine texture (cloth texture can vary). Paper reflects light in a more consistent way (it isn't "reflective" like plastic, it is more muted). Cloth can reflect light less consistently across its surface due to the weave, the materials used to make it, how the cloth itself is unevenly positioned unless it is stretched taught and how consistently opaque it it. Neutral gray paper is about as neutral of a surface as you will get.

Do you need that level of consistency? I have no idea. It's kind of like asking how important color consistency is in strobes. If you are doing catalog products, it will make your life easier. For my portrait work, the incredible color consistency level my strobes achieve is probably a waste .

F2Bthere wrote in post #18604150
If you don't do full length, it doesn't need to be on the ground or get stepped upon.

Paper is more forgiving than the $10 sheet if you want smooth and featureless. If you can't notice wrinkles and the sheet is out of focus, you will probably be fine. But if it gets swept to the side and has ripples in it like a curtain, they will show up.

All the studio images in my Instagram are taken with the same gray cloth background. It has a texture painted on it (not prominent but not invisible) and I often have folds in it like a curtain, such as here:

https://www.instagram.​com …en-by=storyinpictures_com

And here:

https://www.instagram.​com …en-by=storyinpictures_com

As you will notice, most look like different colors. I have not changed the texture but I have changed the color.

Obviously I am using the texture.

Background Paper is similar to cloth in that it has a fine texture (cloth texture can vary). Paper reflects light in a more consistent way (it isn't "reflective" like plastic, it is more muted). Cloth can reflect light less consistently across its surface due to the weave, the materials used to make it, how the cloth itself is unevenly positioned unless it is stretched taught and how consistently opaque it it. Neutral gray paper is about as neutral of a surface as you will get.

Do you need that level of consistency? I have no idea. It's kind of like asking how important color consistency is in strobes. If you are doing catalog products, it will make your life easier. For my portrait work, the incredible color consistency level my strobes achieve is probably a waste .

Good data! And since making this thread, I had a thought: get a second backdrop stand, and put paper on that one. Nearly all my shots are upright, so this would stay in place most of the time. When I need shots on the floor, just remove the paper and shoot the cloth that's already behind/under it.

And I think I would be very happy with the improved gray consistency.

icor1031 wrote in post #18605018
Good data! And since making this thread, I had a thought: get a second backdrop stand, and put paper on that one. Nearly all my shots are upright, so this would stay in place most of the time. When I need shots on the floor, just remove the paper and shoot the cloth that's already behind/under it.

And I think I would be very happy with the improved gray consistency.

The floor doesn't have to look like the backdrop. It didn't in classical paintings and it doesn't in Vanity Fair (I'm looking at you, Annie).

I have been using a patterned red and gold curtain on the floor which looks like a carpet...