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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 04 May 2018 (Friday) 09:44
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Outdoor HSS with Speedlite ... 7", 10", or 16"

 
Wilt
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Post edited 3 months ago by Wilt. (5 edits in all)
     
May 11, 2018 23:49 |  #31

Wilt wrote in post #18624207 (external link)
Simple geek test is to use no models. but put a pole a couple of feet in front of a wall, offset slightly from camera lens axis. Look at the characteristic of the shadow and its edge, both with and without reflector. It will prove if it does anything at all to apparent size (I think you will not see a noticeable difference).

The next level of test is to stand a spouse or child as your model, and move the light a bit more off lens axis and higher, and see how the shadow of their nose on their face looks same/different.

From the above, you can decide if you wasted your money.


Here is a proof I did a long time ago, showing that a 5" x 7" softbox on a speedlight did little good to 'soften' shadow edges and modest good in decreasing shadow contrast, for a flash used as fill.

IMAGE: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i63/wiltonw/NoDiffWithDiffarr.jpg

Left, no fill; center, native speedlight with no modifier; right, 5" x 7" softbox. Shadow edge (at red arrow) not visibly different!

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Canon dSLR system, Olympus OM 35mm system, Bronica ETRSi 645 system, Horseman LS 4x5 system, Metz flashes, Dynalite studio lighting, and too many accessories to mention

  
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tsukroffn
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May 12, 2018 06:36 |  #32

A speedlite is not powerful enough for run-n-gun photography with HSS. Remember - HSS loses power quickly at higher shutter speeds. That makes a speedlite almost useless in bright sunlight at speeds of 1/1000 or so, for more than headshots or half-length.

Use the speedlight directly without diffuser on a regular lightstand that extends up to 8-9 feet. You need the height to throw shadows correctly with using OCF as your main or "key" light.

A small softbox is nice for tight shots, but once again, you lose so much power at high shutter speeds that the softbox is self-defeating with the 1-stop light loss.

Best bet is a high-power strobe, such as the Q-Flash T series or the Godox ripoff of same. These strobes are two to three times the power of a speedlite. I've used Q-Flash for more than 25 years.

Your best bet is on-camera (bracket preferred) flash and OCF in combination. That gives you TWO flash units to overpower the sun. Now you have enough light for proper fill with HSS.

However, I do not use HSS for just this reason on group portraits. For large wedding groups, I run normal shutter speed and normal flash to allow my on-camera and OCF to fill shadows.

How do I know this works? After 600 weddings with this dual-flash combination, I can safely say it works!

OCF is up high about 8 feet, 5" reflector direct, with or without front diffuser, depending on how much extra power is needed.

In diffused sun or overcast or shade/open shade, a speedlight is adequate in HSS mode.

The takeway from this is - GET A MORE POWERFUL FLASH, rather than a speedlite for HSS in bright sunlight.




  
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kmilo
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May 12, 2018 07:17 |  #33

tsukroffn wrote in post #18624324 (external link)
A speedlite is not powerful enough for run-n-gun photography with HSS.

kmilo wrote in post #18619334 (external link)
I'm NOT trying to overpower the sun. I do not believe I need more power and do not plan on buying any other flash.

I've already posted 5 examples of run and gun speedlite, HSS photographs that I'm happy with ... all with the lowly canon 430EXIII-RT. Are the photos I've posted underexposed? Is the lighting way too harsh? I think you're answering a question that I didn't ask. I'm not trying to beat the sun.


Kris
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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May 12, 2018 07:34 |  #34

kmilo wrote in post #18624342 (external link)
Insulting critiques always welcomed.

Well, you asked for it. ;)

One difference here is the individual's definition of run and gun. I think of fast paced event photography where a hundred shots are necessary, not posed shots.

But as you said, you're happy with the results, so that should be enough.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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kmilo
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May 12, 2018 11:08 |  #35

histogram comparison with and without the 7" reflector ... flash zoomed to max (105mm). The reflector does increase the power, but probably not enough to make a strong argument in favor of it. Given what others have already said regarding needing a lot of power in sunlight ... using the reflector is better than not using it. I'm sure someone will point out that more of the chandelier is shown in one image which is throwing off the histagram :)

IMAGE: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/951/41160682865_cdce806520_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/25He​fZX  (external link) 7inchreflector (external link) by Kris Milo (external link), on Flickr

Kris
Insulting critiques always welcomed. flickr (external link)

  
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MalVeauX
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May 12, 2018 15:57 |  #36

Saw your latest series on Flickr, Kris, light looks great, soft, filled, can't tell it's "flash." Excellent. Nice mobile setup. Totally works for HSS run & gun with the fam.

Very best,


My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
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Outdoor HSS with Speedlite ... 7", 10", or 16"
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