What's my problem?

I am struggling with getting good BIF shots with my Canon 7D mkiii and new Tamron 150-600 G2 and I don't think it's an equipment issue. There might be a slight MFA issue as I have done the MFA with this lens/dock on my 5D mkiii and I have not had the time to confirm all is good on this body. The still images I have taken with the 7D mkii seem not to have an MFA issue but I haven't really dug in.

I am using the following for my BIF shots:
AI Servo with all 3 zones and center point as initial (I have tried from other points with no changes)
Case 2 - Tracking -1 / Accel 1 / AF pt switching 0


I feel like my images are sharper and cleaner with the same set up in my 5D mkiii at all focal lengths and I am not factoring in crop. If the frame is filled equally the 5d mkiii seems to be less noisy and better focused. Big disadvantage for the 5D mkiii however is birds that are farther away, I want to use the 7D mkii's extra reach not to mention the frame rate when I need it.


I want to share a couple examples. One is a hawk from today which is straight from the camera with no edits at 100% and one is the moon last night with some edits again at 100%. I get these are two completely different subjects with different exposure methods. While the moon may not be spectacular, it is far better than the hawk and I know there is much more to deliver for BIF.

I think I might also be over exposing a bit with BIF which I am working on.
What else do you see?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

!. If you think it might need MFA, just do it and eliminate that from the equation. I use the Dot-tune method and it is fast and simple. Since the lens does fine on your other body, I'd lean towards this being something you should fix

2. On my 7d2 I use mode 5 for tracking birds in flight and if they are big birds, just the center focus point. Smaller birds I go to the five point (center and north, south, east and west points). I actually set that up as C3 custom. Tv mode.

Hope that helps.

Shaun Liddy wrote in post #18629146
I want to share a couple examples. One is a hawk from today which is straight from the camera with no edits at 100% and one is the moon last night with some edits again at 100%. I get these are two completely different subjects with different exposure methods. While the moon may not be spectacular, it is far better than the hawk and I know there is much more to deliver for BIF.

What else do you see?

Hosted photo: posted by Shaun Liddy in
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forum: Birds

Hosted photo: posted by Shaun Liddy in
./showthread.php?p=186​29146&i=i110221317
forum: Birds

What do I see?

I see that you shot a hawk that is in its own shadow, and that you shot a moon that has sunlight shining directly on it.

A big bright sky and then a completely shaded-out hawk in the middle of it. . All of the sunlight is shining on the topside of the hawk - the side you can't see. . The side you do see is a shadow. . Nothing good is going to come from that.

The moon is enjoying full sunlight upon it - no wonder it looks good in your photo! . See how the lower right part of the moon looks so nice, while the rest of the moon is not even visible because it is in its own shadow? . Well, you were trying to shoot the part of the hawk that is also in its own shadow. . It's ironic that you posted a moon image because the moon serves as a great object lesson that demonstrates what is wrong with the hawk attempt.

Trying to make a good photo from a poor opportunity when the light is all wrong is rather pointless.

.

Shaun Liddy wrote in post #18629146
I am struggling with getting good BIF shots with my Canon 7D mkiii and new Tamron 150-600 G2 and I don't think it's an equipment issue.

With birds in flight, it is almost never an equipment issue. . And it is rarely a settings issue. . It is almost always a light issue because people are trying to take photos when the light isn't right.

Getting good bird in flight photos usually involves a well-thought-out strategy. . If one goes out where birds are and just hopes that one flies close, so that they can get a picture, then they are setting themselves up to fail.

It is best to have a game plan. . Learn the birds' habits. . Figure out where they are coming from and where they are going. . Many birds have routines and often fly the same route over and over during the course of their daily lives.

Once you figure out their flight routine, then think about the sun as it moves across the sky, and how it will illuminate the bird at different times of the day. . There will be times during the first hour or two of sunlight in the morning when the sun will cast favorable light on the bird at different parts of its flight routine. . Then again for an hour or two in the evening the sun will again cast favorable light upon your bird.

The key is to figure out where your bird is taking off from and where it is landing during those couple hours of good light at the very beginning and at the very end of each day.

Remember that birds take off into the wind and land into the wind. . Use this to your advantage and make sure to be out there shooting at those rare, special times when the sunlight and the wind are coming from the same direction!

Also remember that photography is all about light. . That's what photography is - it is light. . The primary thing going through your brain at all times should be, "how is the light falling upon my subject?" . Everything else is secondary.

.

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18630431
Also remember that photography is all about light. . That's what photography is - it is light. . The primary thing going through your brain at all times should be, "how is the light falling upon my subject?" . Everything else is secondary.

.

Well said, Tom.

Thanks Tom,

Doing more thinking on this over the last couple days, I felt some of my issues were light related; IE shooting mostly when the sun is high. I know I was shooting a super high contrast shot but I wasn't really thinking about it with regards to just how deep the shadows are (birds themselves). It has also been very overcast where I live (Coastal California), June gloom has stepped in a bit early so sunrises and sets have not provided much goodness regarding light as it is very diffused and dull. Last night we had a nice break under the coastal layer for about 20 min and the trees across the valley in front of me we all well lit up, they are slightly higher than I am. I thought to myself, I need to be somewhere over there 200-300 yards away from my front porch. I plan on reaching out to my neighbor about parking my tractor there on a more regular basis.

This time of year we get some shift in wind direction throughout the day, morning it is normally still or coming from the east as the fog rolls out, then around 3-4pm it shifts and comes in from the west as the fog comes back in.

Westward facing morning shots from home would be hard as there are rolling hills in the east and they are covered with 150' eucalyptus trees. But east facing afternoon shots can allow for a lot of nice light. I will see what I can come up with when the next non-overcast day comes about. I am very time limited right now or I would change location.

If only I could get the birds to fly in the valley below my house at my request

When in doubt I would do this:

1. Tack a road map on the wall.

2. Remove all filters.

3. Place the camera on a tripod and make sure it is level so that the camera is parallel to the floor.

4. Back the camera/tripod up to make sure you are beyond the minimum focus distance.

5. Autofocus and expose for the road map.

6. Lock the mirror up.

7. Set the self-timer and let the camera take a photo without you touching it.

8. Process the image and see how good the camera and lens combination really are.

I have managed to get better shots with better lighting, but again, all have been with the 5D mkiii.


1-2 hours before sunset: POST 18602851

Late morning: POST 18604125

Again 5D mkiii but the lens is solid: POST 18596165


The 7D mkii also performs very well, I would have to find some examples I have with this lens on it. I am just struggling with BIF with the 7D mkii + Tamron 150-600 G2. Again I think it is me and not the equipment.

Some 7D mkii non-BIF (well 1 is)

Again a moon shot but 7D mkii: POST 18579020

Some other wildlife including a BIF: POST 18569961 (This was before MFA)

Lizard:POST 18569480

If the rig gets sharp focus with stationary objects, then MFA is not the issue.

I often have the same problem as Shaun with overhead shots like this. Here is an example shot yesterday, also shown at 100%.

Shaun Liddy wrote in post #18629146
I am struggling with getting good BIF shots ...

I am using the following for my BIF shots:
AI Servo with all 3 zones and center point as initial (I have tried from other points with no changes)
Case 2 - Tracking -1 / Accel 1 / AF pt switching 0
...

Tom makes a great point about light. Heed his advice. My advice is to turn off all but the tiny center AF point. Force yourself to put that bead on the bird's eye or as close as possible. Don't allow the camera to select the focus point. That's our job as photographers. Also, don't pull the trigger until the bird is in focus. I set my camera so the shutter won't trip if the the image is out of focus.

I shoot case 2 also. Tracking sensitivity -1; access/decel tracking at 1; AF point switching at 0. it works for me.

Regarding exposure, don't be afraid to push the ISO so you can jack the shutter speed to 1/3200 or higher. Shoot in manual exposure.

Keep shooting.