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Thread started 16 Jul 2018 (Monday) 01:41
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Volleyball. First time ever with a dslr.

 
braban11
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Jul 16, 2018 01:41 |  #1

My first time ever using a dslr. Nikon d3400 with kit lenses. Tried shooting without settings at first, but ended up shooting in sports mode.

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Ah-keong
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Jul 16, 2018 03:00 |  #2

I would shoot Manual mode with auto ISO.  :p


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Zivnuska
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Jul 16, 2018 05:04 |  #3

Welcome! You're in the right place. You've done a good job for your first time with a dslr. Your timing is excellent and you've captured good action. Well done.

As you continue to shoot volleyball, there are some things you will want to know. I've compiled my list of those ideas at this site:

http://zivnuska.zenfol​io.com/blog (external link)

Give it a try. I believe that you will find some good techniques there.

Phil Zivnuska


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PhotosGuy
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Jul 16, 2018 07:39 |  #4

Ah-keong wrote in post #18663777 (external link)
I would shoot Manual mode with auto ISO.  :p

That's just another auto mode. It's not as if the light at the net is changing, is it? But white shirts vs dark shirts will result in different exposures.
Manual by itself gives the best results & makes post production much easier. My experience & some links: Some Volley Ball Tournament Tests **56K Warning!**


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
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Ah-keong
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Jul 16, 2018 21:58 |  #5

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18663841 (external link)
That's just another auto mode. It's not as if the light at the net is changing, is it? But white shirts vs dark shirts will result in different exposures.
Manual by itself gives the best results & makes post production much easier. My experience & some links: Some Volley Ball Tournament Tests **56K Warning!**

true also. for me, depending on the ambient exposure and the lights positioning. different frames would expose differently, I would then adjust the exposure compensation accordingly based on the exposure of the different frames.  :p


Canon R3 | RP | 7D2+grip | EF 70-200mm f/2,8L IS II | EF 135mm f/2L | EF 50mm f/1,2L | RF 100mm f/2,8L | Tamron 24-70mm f/2,8 VC G2 | Tamron 17-35mm f/2,8-4 Di OSD | ZE 2/100mm | ZF 2/35mm | ZF 1,4/85mm | ZF 2/135mm | CV 1,4/58mm Nokton | Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2,8D | DC-Nikkor 105mm f/2D | Micro-Nikkor 200mm f/4D |
Speedlite 430EX III-RT | 600EX-RT |
Manfrotto BeFree Travel | MT055XPRO3 |

  
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Noitca
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Jul 17, 2018 10:29 |  #6

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18663841 (external link)
That's just another auto mode. It's not as if the light at the net is changing, is it?

I know you said it in jest.. but in some of the gyms my son has played basketball in... YES! :)


T1i with 18-55, 55-250, 50 1.8

  
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CheleA
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Jul 17, 2018 16:59 |  #7

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18663841 (external link)
That's just another auto mode. It's not as if the light at the net is changing, is it? But white shirts vs dark shirts will result in different exposures.
Manual by itself gives the best results & makes post production much easier. My experience & some links: Some Volley Ball Tournament Tests **56K Warning!**

What he said, almost:) I am very partial to ETTR(Expose To The Right) in manual mode. Just expose for the bright colors(white) and everything else will fall into place. Manual mode and RAW make post-processing a breeze.




  
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PhotosGuy
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Jul 17, 2018 21:13 |  #8

CheleA wrote in post #18664842 (external link)
What he said, almost:) I am very partial to ETTR(Expose To The Right) in manual mode. Just expose for the bright colors(white) and everything else will fall into place. Manual mode and RAW make post-processing a breeze.

The Ref's white shirt works well for that! ; )


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
New Image Size Limits: Image must not exceed 1600 pixels on any side.

  
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mike_d
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Jul 17, 2018 23:26 |  #9

Noitca wrote in post #18664609 (external link)
I know you said it in jest.. but in some of the gyms my son has played basketball in... YES! :)

I've experienced that. Crappy old lights cycling in intensity, color temp, and tint make for some post processing work to even things out.




  
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Noitca
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Jul 18, 2018 06:30 as a reply to  @ mike_d's post |  #10

Yep, sometimes post is the only way to fix it.

One gym my son plays in, there are lights out around in some areas. Lights on in others. Windows up high on the walls so day games there is a bright sunny spot on the court. So following across the 1/2 court you can easily go from close to properly exposed, to a stop or more under to just completely blown out.


T1i with 18-55, 55-250, 50 1.8

  
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Zivnuska
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Jul 18, 2018 08:47 |  #11

My first tip is one that is applicable to all of sports photography: Shoot tight, crop tighter. Players not involved in the action are merely observers. Crop them out to the extent possible. In this case, the people at and behind the scorer's table don't add anything to the image. Consider shooting in the portrait orientation for this shot of the setter.

Phil


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braban11
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Jul 19, 2018 00:15 as a reply to  @ Zivnuska's post |  #12

so crop out the hitter and blur the scores and misc people behind her? These are just as they were taken off the camera. What editing software is the easiest to use?




  
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braban11
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Jul 19, 2018 00:17 as a reply to  @ Zivnuska's post |  #13

I will check it out. High school season is coming so ill be able to get a higher perspective in most gyms.




  
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braban11
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Jul 19, 2018 00:18 as a reply to  @ PhotosGuy's post |  #14

It just seemed when i was in manual the shots were way to dark and too blurry. Im sure that alot of that has to do with the kit lens not being fast tenough




  
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mike_d
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Jul 19, 2018 00:24 |  #15

braban11 wrote in post #18665725 (external link)
It just seemed when i was in manual the shots were way to dark and too blurry. Im sure that alot of that has to do with the kit lens not being fast tenough

Yeah kit lenses will usually kill you for indoor sports. I use a 70-200 f2.8 and wouldn't want anything slower. You images don't show exif data. What aperture, speed, ISO were these shot at?

In manual mode, the camera does just what you tell it to. If they were dark and blurry, its because you underexposed and chose too slow of a shutter speed. I've never shot volleyball, but I have shot little kids basketball and soccer indoors. I don't go below 1/500' and even that doesn't 100% freeze action. You'll probably want to be closer to 1/1000' with high schoolers unless you want to show motion blur on the extremities.




  
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