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Thread started 10 Aug 2018 (Friday) 19:31
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mode for portraits

 
James ­ Crockett
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Aug 10, 2018 19:31 |  #1

Which mode do you personally use for shooting portraits? Aperture Priorty or Manual mode? thanks and hope all is well.




  
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TeamSpeed
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Aug 10, 2018 20:22 |  #2

Manual mode with auto ISO for me. This way I can adjust the aperture as needed for different group depths, and keep my shutter speed consistent, and let ISO float around under that.


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davesrose
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Aug 10, 2018 21:40 |  #3

Full manual, because I'm also lighting with flash and large softboxes.


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EverydayGetaway
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Aug 11, 2018 00:10 |  #4

Like everything else, it depends on the situation.

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PhotosGuy
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Aug 11, 2018 00:16 |  #5

Full manual. Spend the time to get it right now, or spend it in editing later.


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TeamSpeed
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Post edited over 5 years ago by TeamSpeed. (2 edits in all)
     
Aug 11, 2018 07:34 |  #6

You are always going to edit later. If you are lucky to have a camera with auto ISO and EC in manual, it truly is better in speed and ease IMO. Manual shutter and aperture for sure. If using strobes/flash, then lock in ISO 400. A light meter does help too, I finally picked one up last year, should have done it sooner.


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Aug 11, 2018 13:22 |  #7

If I'm using the camera's light metering system then I tend to shoot Av mode, because none of my cameras have a useable auto ISO mode with "manual". If I'm using flash, either ETTL or fully manual studio strobes, then the camera will be in manual mode. I'm also with TeamSpeed in thinking that external incident lightmeters are also still very useful and relevant bits of kit. I use incident readings a lot for my aviation shots, although for that I favour a meter with an analogue interface. If I did more portraiture I would get a digital flash meter in a heartbeat. Most of my studio flash work is product photography, so the subject does not get bored while I balance the lights by taking test shots.

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digital ­ paradise
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Aug 12, 2018 17:06 |  #8

Manual for studio, indoors and when there is time. Av or manual for outdoors. Depends on my mood. Sometimes I find Av quicker outside because it is easier to expose for the ambient and then adjust FEC for the subject. A flash meter is the cat's meow if using the flash on manual.


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MalVeauX
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Post edited over 5 years ago by MalVeauX. (3 edits in all)
     
Aug 12, 2018 17:49 |  #9

Depends on the camera system and lighting system combination and the purposeful results you're wanting to make.

Sometimes, I'm totally manual such as with indoor studio type portraits where everything is 100% controlled and consistent (ambient is consistent and lighting is consistent). Then I just shoot at sync speed, focal-ratio for DOF and to kill off ambient, and lighting does the rest. My indoor studio stuff is 100% lighting though (camera settings always set to kill ambient completely). So everything is sync speed, low ISO, and stop down aperture to control zero-ambient and give me enough DOF for a group. This is silly simple to do. It's very consistent (that's the point of controlled space) and doesn't matter what system I'm shooting, Canon, Fuji, etc.

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For outdoor portrait in the sun with shallow DOF with my Fuji kit, I'm often shooting aperture priority as I set aperture for depth of field only. I set an ISO specifically based on whether or not I need base ISO (to allow greatest dynamic range recovery in RAW); sometimes I use higher ISO if the ambient light levels are super low (even at F1.2 sometimes I need more ISO in really low light situations). Shutter speed isn't as important to me here, as I can control exposure with exposure compensation (I tend to use -2/3rds EC on my Fujis) and my lighting syncs with any shutter speed, as I use HSS TLL compatible lights with my kit. For my light(s), I set them to normal exposure, or I use +/- FEC to adjust the TTL exposure which sometimes needs adjustment with strong back lighting.

Do that so that it's as simple as possible with me being able to adjust EC and FEC instead of actual camera settings and let the camera work for me.

I do that because my lenses are fully manual and I use focus peaking & manual focus for everything with my Fuji kit for this.

Makes life more simple. I can then just pay attention to focus, composition and issue commands to the subject(s).

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mckownphoto
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Aug 29, 2018 23:21 |  #10

my camera's are always on manual.


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tdlavigne
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Aug 30, 2018 04:25 |  #11

TeamSpeed wrote in post #18681767 (external link)
Manual mode with auto ISO for me. This way I can adjust the aperture as needed for different group depths, and keep my shutter speed consistent, and let ISO float around under that.

Same here. Auto ISO is one of the best new features to come out the past decade.




  
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digital ­ paradise
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Aug 30, 2018 05:44 |  #12

I couldn't use Auto ISO until last week which was of my own doing. I have LR's Default Develop settings set so NR automatically applies based on ISO at import. I fine tune later if necessary but most file are OK with the base settings. This also automatically applies if I open a file on ACR.

To set this up using 1/ 3 ISO stops would have been nightmare to manage so I had my cams set to 1/1. I had a set of master files at each ISO where I made any changes. A set for each cam.

I found this which allows you to set a range of ISO's and NR adjustments that are logarithmic. I got rid of the master set of files an only per cam need one now. Colour profiles and Lens corrections apply at import. Then I run this for NR. Big change to my workflow. I love it.

http://regex.info …room-goodies/bulk-develop (external link)

Actually before I run the above plug-in I run this to fine tune Auto Tone to my preferences. The last tool - Personalized Auto Tone.

http://regex.info …oom-goodies/bag-o-goodies (external link)


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airfrogusmc
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Aug 30, 2018 06:24 |  #13

All manual for me.




  
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digital ­ paradise
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Aug 30, 2018 06:55 |  #14

airfrogusmc wrote in post #18696386 (external link)
All manual for me.

For for structured portraits all manual for me too.


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