Need help on buying a softbox.....

So, I am wanting to tinker with a larger sofbox instead of just my flash diffuser.
I have no clue what size i need or what is a good place to start but i found this one on B&H... https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com …edlight_modifie​r_kit.html

Its 36" and built to hold dual flashes which i thought might be a good thing down the road. Or, should I get a smaller softbox and practice with one flash and then jump into strobes down the road?

I just dont know anything about this but I want to practice and learn

Getting a 36x36 isn't bad at all.. Many brands have about that size. Even a 24-36 should fit the bill nicely.

Should be a good size to start with. I don't really like smaller softboxes because even though they do technically diffuse the light they're so small that they're more of a point light source than anything, without any wrap thereby negating the benefits of softboxes (at least how I use them)

Had a 16" softbox and a speedlight a while back, gave similar output to a 20" BD with sock (other than the catchlights).

If you want to just practice and mess around with lighting placement with the goal of strobes eventually then I'd opt for the cheaper one (also depends on if you have the 2nd speedlight already for the first softbox), then that way you can at least learn about sync speeds, placement of the light in relation to the subject and how it chances the look, etc.

Are you taking pics of tree frogs?

Dingos?

Plates of spaghetti?

No tree frogs, Dingos or Spaghetti...

I'm interested in portraits. But basically I just want to play around and learn placement like 'tdlavigne' mentioned.
I am a general hobbyist and I take pictures of everything with available light... I would to use strobes or flashes or whatever, to get the perfect lighting. Like I said, I know nothing about strobes or softboxes at all and I have no clue what to start with for a single source to play with using my daughter as a subject

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com/2006/03/lightin​g-101.html?m=1

That ^^^ is a great resource, many pages worth, of info developed for people just like you.

To be honest, I'm not a huge fan of umbrellas but they definitely have their place being easy to transport and set up, and inexpensive. I would suggest a convertible umbrella that has a removable black outer covering so you can use it as either a shoot through or bounce/reflective. With just one light you can take advantage of the spill from the umbrella as fill light when shooting inside.

30 inches is probably a good starting point. When you get too big (softboxes or umbrella) the shadows are not as pronounced and it can be harder to see the result of slight changes in set-up. Kids, generally having great skin, do not require the super soft light from a big modifier.

Thanks for the help and link!

I have a 47" version of this octo box and I like it. It doubles really well as a white backdrop for headshots. Instead of carrying around a background and support w/ an extra light to shine on the backdrop, I just put this up and have the subject stand in front (with or without gel, usually without).

Can you tell me what a grid diffuser is used for?

Also, If I get the dual flash softbox setup... will Two of the 430ex iii be enough light for anything I do with it or would I need more?

Right now I have a 600ex-rt ii and a 430ex iii. (or can I mix these two flashes together?)

reefvilla wrote in post #18687453
Can you tell me what a grid diffuser is used for?

Also, If I get the dual flash softbox setup... will Two of the 430ex iii be enough light for anything I do with it or would I need more?

Right now I have a 600ex-rt ii and a 430ex iii. (or can I mix these two flashes together?)

You can mix flashes. Two should be plenty, unless you want to shoot outdoors and over power the sun, but even then it should work if not "high noon" The grid concentrates the light and control spill over. Go to the link you gave here and look at "customer photos", one gives an example with and without the grid.

Great!!! Thank you

Reef.
A great place to start with portable soft boxes is the Westcott Apollo line. Built on an umbrella frame. No need to waste time with metal rods and possible ripping your boxes during setup. Lightweight as well. I bought my first 28"Medium Apollo in 2012. This 28" Square box is great for waiste up shots or paired with another for Clam Shel lighting. At that time I went all in on the Canon 600 EX-RT Speedlites with the ST-E3 RT Transmitter. Since it is radio based, having the Apollo is not a concern as the Speedlite is contained inside the Apollo box. No need to stick your hand inside and fiddle with power adjustments or Mode Adjustments. All done from the on camera ST-E3 RT Transmitter.
Another "issue" with the Apollo series has is the design. It does not allow much room for tilting. The real issue is Westcott has the solution, they just do not promote in any way. Whether bundling with a kit, or showing as additional option up front. Finally they made a nice video on a solution that works very well.
But still not a bundled option to put the "lack of tilting" excuse to bed.
Since 2012, I have acquired the 43 Orb, Strip and Halo. All of them have there strengths.
The 28" Medium, Orb and Strip have optional Grids as well, which I utilize when needed.

Start with one, either the Medium or Orb, then after learning what just one light can do, add an additional down the line and so forth. It's a building process.

If you want to invest the time into learning how to use flash and understand lighting, I recommend Syl Arena's Speedliter's Handbook Version 2.

https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com …Apollo_Orb_Spee​dlite.html

https://m.youtube.com/​watch?v=b1ESwh9OCMg

Thank you..

I do have an st e3 rt transmitter, just got it a week ago.
I also placed an order for a book on flashes by Scott Kelby, should be here soon.

I appreciate all the help and suggestions, I really want to get deeper into photography than I am now

Just me, but have you bounced with your 600EX-RT on-camera (preferably festooned with a BFT)? If you have, just skip all of this, except maybe the last two paragraphs.

When I got into the Strobist thing, I did so from Ground Zero without any flash experience, and got overwhelmed pretty quickly, especially since I started out with a 580EX and 430EX and tried to do multiple lights right off the bat with an ST-E2 (so, I see parallels in your lighting gear). I found that I needed to start a bit lower and slower and get grounded in flash basics before I could start to effectively do key/fill/rim/backgroun​d setups.

If you haven't learned to do the on-camera, event/social/chasing the kids around the house with TTL bounce flash thing, I would highly recommend starting out there. It really doesn't take long, and it is a very useful skill to have. Yes, this is training wheels lighting. But it has the advantages over off-camera of a) teaching you when you might want to use TTL and when you won't, b) being a lot faster/more convenient, and c) not requiring additional purchases other than the speedlight (and maybe a sheet of craft foam for a buck at Michael's and two hairbands). Off-camera lighting typically means having a lighting bag as well as a camera bag. On-camera lighting typically just means shoving a speedlight in your bag.

While it is more limited than off-camera flash, you can still use on-camera flash to learn how to control the light direction/quality/amou​nt/color, as well as flash/ambient exposure and balance. And it's just simpler to be able to attach a flash and go, than having to set up stands, lights, modifiers and test triggering before you can go. Neil van Niekerk's Tangents website is a great place to learn about on-camera flash, just as David Hobby's Strobist website is great for learning off-camera.

Once you've mastered the run'n'gun TTL/bounce thing, then take one light off camera. Again, simpler situations, easier to debug and learn. Again, won't take long. Once you've mastered one light and one modifier to the point where you can previsualize what it's going to do, then go for multiple lights and multiple modifiers. Just what worked for me.

BTW, if you learn better from videos than you do from reading, and your public library system allows you free access to Lynda.com (I had to go through four library systems before I found one local to me that did), David Hobby also has an off-camera lighting course there.

I do bounce the flash and I also have a Vellow flexframe softbox for the flash...I think it's an 8"x12", but it's still not what I'm wanting.
All thought the softbox is much better than direct flash, I'm just wanting to take the next step to learn how to light a subject correctly and create some art like I've seen on POTN.