since you are concerned about consistency from image to image, and are feeling that these two images seem so different, lets start with an area that should be close color.
I put the eyedropper sample spots out there just to mark areas so I can hit the same spot time after time. I have the eye dropper sample set on 11x11 pixels.
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© Left Handed Brisket [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. Here is the hue and saturation for each of the spots.
1=25/24
2=26/20
3=22/29
4=29/22
for this kind of work, the first two are essentially exact matches, IMO
the second two do show what seems to be a pretty big shift but in the grand scheme is really not that much. If you watch the arrow circled in red you can see that between 1 and 2 it doesn't move at all, and between 3 and 4 it barely moves.
Here is#3 on top and #4 on bottom but darkened with the same hue/sat values. To me, that's close enough to be considered the same color for this kind of work, if just barely.
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© Left Handed Brisket [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. IMO this shows that your processing IS actually the same, and that the difference you see is with the individual's complexion. There is also the potential of the guy's face being lit away from the window with a different temperature light, but I would guess that is minimal. If you have an area like this in your photos you can compare the numbers to achieve consistent results ... just as you would do with a color checker ... for instance if you went back to this spot later in the day, or if the exposure changed due to clouds rolling in or out.
So glad football is back, and that I moved my workstation to the living room.

OU is crushing UCLA early. I'm going to get a beer and grab that other image to compare it to these.
PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20