Metering mode for sports?

What do you folks find the best metering mode for sports is? I have been trying to watch some YouTube videos on the subject and seems to get some mixed suggestions.

I like manual. For me, it works both indoors & outdoors
Manual means that you are responsible for the exposure. All of it. And IMO, M + Auto ISO is not really "M", either.
If you're have problems with exposure, try this: Need an exposure crutch?

I use a set aperture and shutter speed, then auto ISO with EC, if the camera supports that. I then use center weighted metering mode for the auto ISO. My sports shooting can run across 3 stops of ISO during a game and choose rather to not worry about ISO.

For me the metering mode is irrelevant. Shooting sports (unless going for fancy blur shots or something) your aperture and shutter speed are set by the need to freeze action. So, unless the lighting is constantly changing, I just meter off a midtone and shoot a test and check the histogram. Tweak if needed to get the right exposure and shoot in manual. That way the meter can't be fooled by light/dark uniforms/banners/walls​. As the afternoon goes on and the light changes I just tweak the ISO.

Rarely is any venue evenly lit, I am fortunate to shoot in a professional stadium, and even in those cases, the lighting along the edges of the court isn't the same as the basket.

Also shooting at astronomical ISO levels means you don't want to underexpose.

Finally, I do all editing in bulk because the exposures are so uniform, saving me time. I will run hundreds of photos through an action, then go to each image to cull it or crop for composition.

There is no perfect recipe, you have to decide what your needs are, what your volume of shots are, and what the photos will be used for.

For example, this last game, I didn't have to tweak levels or exposure on any of these shots, except perhaps for a few from the 7D2. The 5D4 does a better job metering and auto ISO, I feel.

https://gerberphotos.s​mugmug.com …urrent-Season/Jan-7-2019/

I mostly shoot outdoors. Sometimes with T&F, you get a lot of sky in the photo when trying to shoot from a lower angle. Just trying to figure out what I can do to make improvements for this year. Last years was shooting with a used 7D that I had purchased and this year I have moved up to a new 7D MkII

IMAGE LINK: https://troybracker.sm​ugmug.com/2018-Track/i-xrfjnJS/A

Dan Marchant wrote in post #18788341
For me the metering mode is irrelevant. Shooting sports (unless going for fancy blur shots or something) your aperture and shutter speed are set by the need to freeze action. So, unless the lighting is constantly changing, I just meter off a midtone and shoot a test and check the histogram. Tweak if needed to get the right exposure and shoot in manual. That way the meter can't be fooled by light/dark uniforms/banners/walls​. As the afternoon goes on and the light changes I just tweak the ISO.

metering has absoloutly nothign to do with freezing a picture or sharpness of a picture..

as for metering off a midtone.. what use is that to you in an ever changing light situation such as a couldy day ? or a stadium with shadows from the stands covering half the pitch or many other situations?

I would ignore anyone who says they always shoot manual exposure.

I would ignore anyone who says they never shoot manual exposure..

Manual exposure is for constant lighting and is by far the best choice.. however not everyone shoots in such situations so for constantly changing light.. badly lit arenas with patchy lighting.. arenas with stands casting a shadow over half the pitch or any other situation then you need to choose a metering mode

the problem is your asking the wrong question.. your asking what metering mode for sports.. But metering is all about light.. we dont' know if your indoors or out.. day or night.,. sunny or cloudy.. we dont know what your capturing... metering questions are about the light.. not the sport there is also what your pointing at.. in varying light conditions sooting soccer at a player in a black kit against a player in a white kit will need a whole different metering approach to a skier down a snowey slope..

My advice rather than looking for a catch all metering for sport is to google and learn more about metering... the camera manual can be a bit too techie and not helpful for a lot of us.. me for sure

90% of the time, I use manual mode with floating ISO, tweaking the EC as required, based on the last shot(s).

Thanks for the comments. Most of my sports shooting is outdoors. I have just noticed that a couple of times when shooting on a slightly overcast day, some of the photos get a little washed out at times. Just a hobby shooter so trying to learn anything I can to make my photos more consistent.

Photo from duckster's gallery.

KIPAX wrote in post #18791065
metering has absoloutly nothign to do with freezing a picture or sharpness of a picture..

Of course it doesn't, which is why I didn't say anything even close to that. You may want to re-read my post a few times.

Metering mode means spot, evaluative or centre-weighted (or alternatively the Nikon flavour). I usually choose evaluative or centreweighted, but will often measure the exposure using the pitch (grass) to find a mid-tone grey when snapping teams wearing different colour kit.

Dan Marchant wrote in post #18791167
Of course it doesn't, which is why I didn't say anything even close to that. You may want to re-read my post a few times.

No matter how many times i read it.. I still get this

Dan Marchant wrote in post #18788341
For me the metering mode is irrelevant. Shooting sports (unless going for fancy blur shots or something) .

It's the blur.. thats not metering

PhotosGuy wrote in post #18788335
I like manual. For me, it works both indoors & outdoors

Outdoors, I would shoot as Photosguy suggests : in Manual Mode...and use f/16 Sunny Rule, with one and unique working exposure as natural sunny light is so even.
In RAW, it would be f:8 & 1/500 s at 100 ISO + 1IL1/3 for optimization on the field of the acquisition of the RAW files : in other words, f:8 & 1/200 s at 100 ISO (or equivalent exposure parameters).
Clouds passing by and interposing between the sun and the very main subject (in special case there is one sport main subject and not many ones) is not an issue
as I do train myself to very careffully notice such eventuality and adjust the exposure accordingly by refering to the density of cast shadows on the ground.

Thanks. Have a outdoor track meet tomorrow and it is supposed to be sunny.