Godox Xpro-C Trigger Overexposing

A while back I purchased a Good Xpro-C TTL Wireless Flash Trigger for my Canon 5D Mark IV. I hadn’t used it for a while and today I decided to give it a go and for some reason, when in M mode, the power, even at 1/128 is way too much.

If I use TTL mode, the flash fires fine (I can even underexpose with an exposure adjustment), and powers down. But always in M mode it’s just way too much. At 1/1 I just get a white picture, at 1/128, it’s still extremely overblown and overexposed (but less than 1/1 so I know it is powering down somewhat). Why can TTL mode power down properly but 1/128 Manual power is way too much? Could I be missing something?

I tried with 2 different Godox TT685C flashes (set to Slave A CH1) and the same result. Could I be missing something? It's been about 8 months since I used these (tried different batteries in each).

Edit: This is also the case when using these flashes on camera... 1/128 M is too powerful for almost any use unless I set about ISO100 and F2.8 or higher.

Do you have FEC set to something? It would affect TTL and not if you are in manual mode.

drisley wrote in post #18794317
Edit: This is also the case when using these flashes on camera... 1/128 M is too powerful for almost any use unless I set about ISO100 and F2.8 or higher.

From my experience with Canon eTTL speedlites, the flash in ttl mode can go at lease couple stops below 1/128.

I don't think there is any thing wrong with your flash. My flashes do the same with too high of ISO, too close, and lens wild open.

What are you try to shoot beside quick tests with those camera settings?

I was trying to shoot a kitchen shot with some ambient and large aperture.

I've tried on camera with 2 different TT685's and my 1D and 5D... both produce the same effect. Manual 1/128 is way too powerful, but ETTL is fine.

It is very close to your "subject"

Add some diffusion. You would be amazed at how much difference a couple of layers of tissue paper will make

Boring Saturday afternoon, want to find ways to properly expose @ ISO 400, F1.8, and 1/160 with the Godox speedlight at minimum power...

A simple bounce off the ceiling would do, but that's not the POTN way

4 layers of tissue paper is still too bright at close distance.

Thanks guys! Thanks LOTTO! Ok I didn't realize this was just the way the flash were set up. It's weird that after owning many flashes (430EX, some Yongnuos, and now these Godox) I've never notice the flash being too bright in M mode.

Thank you for all your help!

Did you try at ISO 100?

Also, bumping the shutter speed above 1/200th will give you a 1-1/3 stop reduction in flash power as the flash switches to a pulsing mode to work with HSS (High Speed Sync).

The 430's are great flashes, but not nearly as powerful as the ex600's and the yn600's (or any Yongnuos that I am aware of) are at least 1 stop less powerful than the ex600's. The Godox speedlights have a lot of power.

Good point, I could go to high speed sync. I was just a bit surprised that the flash was so powerful. I kind of wanted some ambient in and drag the shutter a bit. I thought the 1/128 would be low enough to put in some some colour/gel flash in places.

drisley wrote in post #18796038
Good point, I could go to high speed sync. I was just a bit surprised that the flash was so powerful. I kind of wanted some ambient in and drag the shutter a bit. I thought the 1/128 would be low enough to put in some some colour/gel flash in places.

HSS High Speed Sync is only available if the working shutter speed is faster than your camera max sync-X shutter speed : in available low light, it is not realistic to carry out HSS flash lighting.
If you want to shoot with your TT685 flash in manual mode, you have to minor by some way the actual manual minimal ouptput of the flash or have to increase the working distance flash-to-subject.
For daily personal photo practise, my old 550EX Canon flash is covered by homemade modyfier so to have GN precisely equal to 5,6m at 1/4P for 100 ISO - with around 1/1200 s flash duration.


We all are subjects to basics :

Pictoraider wrote in post #18810756
HSS High Speed Sync is only available if the working shutter speed is faster than your camera max sync-X shutter speed : in available low light, it is not realistic to carry out HSS flash lighting.
If you want to shoot with your TT685 flash in manual mode, you have to minor by some way the actual manual minimal ouptput of the flash or have to increase the working distance flash-to-subject.
For daily personal photo practise, my old 550EX Canon flash is covered by homemade modyfier so to have GN precisely equal to 5,6m at 1/4P for 100 ISO - with around 1/1200 s flash duration.

We all are subjects to basics :

Hosted photo: posted by Pictoraider in
./showthread.php?p=188​10756&i=i106756078
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

Regards,

Ehh what???? You can carry out HSS in any light you want provided the flash has the power to either light up your subject or overpower the sun AND light up.....
In this case the OP lights from a short distance rendering the Speedlight overpowered in manual mode. The consumption of power by using fast shutterspeeds may take care of some of this problem but moving the flash back (its simply to close) and/or shoot it through some sort of diffusion or ND filter can deffinitely solve the issue.

soeren wrote in post #18810760
Ehh what???? You can carry out HSS in any light you want provided the flash has the power to either light up your subject or overpower the sun AND light up.....

If I understand well, Drisley looks to mix indoor available low ambient light and (manual) flash while using wide aperture such as f:1,8.
The tungsten lamp in my room delivers an ambient light such as I need to set 1600 ISO & 1 second at f:20 (= 100 ISO & 1/8 s at f:1,8) for correct ambient light exposure without flash.
How do you manage to carry out HSS with an 1:1 ambient/flash ratio when your camera max sync-X shutter speed is 1/250 s ?
Same question with an 2:1 ambient/flash ratio ?

Set the Xpro-C and flash to a different channel and group.