M43 to EOS RP?

Currently considering this charge and wanting to see some thoughts on it. My biggest reason for wanting to change is I need better autofocus and low light ability. I primarily shoot portraits and shots of my two year old twins playing so good tracking is important. Our portrait work is typically outside but we have been asked to shoot indoor events and lets just say I haven't been pleased with my keeper rate.

My budget for the body is max $1500 and currently my most used lens in m43 is my sigma 56 f1.4 so I was leaning towards starting with a canon 135L. I'm also considering the canon 6D II with 135L and Nikon D750 with sigma 85 F1.4.

My current m43 kit consist of,
Gx85
Gx8
Olympus 12-40 F2.8
Panasonic 35-100 F2.8
Sigma 56 F1.4
Godox tt350o
Godox tt685o
Godox XproO
Godox ad200 (keeping this)

Obviously I'm giving up alot to make this change but if it gets me better results and a higher keeper rate I'm fine with that and will slowly build up a new kit with which ever brand I choose.

As of right now I am leaning heavily towards the d750 and sigma 85.

BB70Chevelle wrote in post #18814297
As of right now I am leaning heavily towards the d750 and sigma 85.

I'll check back tomorrow to see if you lean the other way toward a good used Hasselblad.

You can't go wrong with the Nikon kit. It is very very good. But I also see the RP offering a platform for the future. The new Canon glass is simply amazing. And you have access to a whole portfolio of used Canon glass that will become very cheap soon on the used market.

I guess my bigger question is what is it that your current kit isn't doing for you. You mention keeper rate. Is it focus? Is it wrong focus point selection? Is other factors? Is it noise? (given your lighting setup, doubt its that). Is it color rendition? Dynamic range?

Jared Polin (who I think is s bit of a joke) put out a video with RAW files from the R, RP, and 6D II. In it, it showed that the RP and the 6D II are pretty much sisters. They have about the same dynamic range abilities, and the noise levels are about the same as the difference between the 6D and 5D. Properly exposed, they are both really good. R has better noise control though.

So I don't know. I am going through my archives right now and with the new lightroom I am surprised of how much control I have over older 20D and 1DmkII N files. Even JPSs. If that old stuff can hang in there... be sure you are upgrading for the right reason. There might be something about your technique that is holding you back. I know I am still evolving as a shooter. It might save you a bunch of money....

The keeper rate may have been more of a lens issue, it kept back focusing but it caused me to miss some key shots during the event. It was a last minute "hey if your not busy" type thing and they really didnt want me setting up my strobes so I was using my tt350o on camera. I also have two year old twins who very rarely sit still and I've noticed my m43 kit just has a very hard time keep up with them so its been more then one occasion that something with the auto focus system has let me down so I'm ready to find something that won't.

I did some looking and talking to the wife and we could stretch our budget a hair more so Sony is a possibility. Right now I think its between,

D750 with 85 1.4G with godox v860II and xproN trigger.

Vs

A7III with 85 1.8 with godox v860II and xproS trigger.

Next year I would add a 70-200 F2.8 to either system

So my biggest question is which auto focus system will work better for me? Would there be any noticable difference in IQ between these two?

I think part of the problem is the Panny bodies. For some reason Panny is dead set on using only contrast AF, even the DFD is contrast only. On top of that it only really works well with Panny lenses. If you have a chance try a body like the e-m1, the PDAF really works pretty good.

Honestly there is a lot to consider. If price point is your concern I'd suggest Fuji. Please note I have a love/hate relationship with my Fuji system as I find my other gear "better" and my preference.

If you love taking portraits I'll strongly suggest a Fuji with 56mm f/1.2 for the FF equiv 85mm f/1.8. Or if you have a love for the 135mm range you can buy the Fuji 90 f/2 which gives you f/3 dof equiv with creamy bokeh. I DO NOT suggests using the Fuji 50-140mm f/2.8 if you cannot help it. It's going to give you f/4 FF equiv dof but it has similar nervous bokeh just like many 70-200 f/2.8 FF telephoto lenses.

The Fuji raw files have been engineered well many Fuji followers use Capture one (somewhat forced too really) to reduce the worms created by sharpening in Adobe LR. Adobe just added a new features "Enhanced Details" that helps sharpen without the worms but it's a slow process. Fuji raws have great pixie dust added to the portait that almost seems cooked in the RAW file. In other words post process a Sony, Nikon and Canon I still feel hammering a batch process with Fuji still produces very "easy on the eyes" calm looking eye candy that Fuji has engineered well to appeal to many.

Fuji in my gear is the most ridiculously easiest post processing files to play with. I love fuji colours and render in good light. This is where I appreciate my 5dmk4 and A73 for more headroom in RAW files that do NOT fall apart easily in low light. I was a M43 shooter at a point in time (omd em5 and gh3) but those camera's were difficult to keep intact RAW files past iso 3200 for my tolerance.

If dual cards is NOT an issue the appeal to the EOS RP for your case is that it'll be ridiculously sharp. You can use the RF to EF adapter and buy a tonne of native glass and have native performance on a NEW Canon mirrorless FF. Canon has relatively easy RAWs to play with and skin tones are very good in most cases. I still find my Sony skin tones to requires a lot more work to meet my taste. Please note this is even with a calibrated monitor using a spyder 5 pro and Xrite passport colour checker.

At the end of the day you can own a really nice Fuji kit. All of the lenses is around the 1 grand mark for primes. Sony is SUBSTANTIALLY more expensive when it comes to lenses. Canon is a viable choice if you ok with single memory card.

AF wise Fuji, Canon mirrorless will have your phase detect and contrast detect. Much more keeper rates IMO.

If you cannot rent / borrow gear I'd suggest looking at google and look at the portrait images from all of these systems. There is a difference in render from Sony, Canon and Fuji.