Using loctite on camera plate?

I have an L bracket almost permanently on my 5D. Then I also attached my peak design capture clip to the L bracket (proprietary) for using with my backpack strap. Although the peak design plate has a bit of rubber on it, I find it hard and more slippery than grippy, plus the L bracket has a more hollow design so there isn't too much actually holding/locking the peak design to the L bracket apart from the screw itself.

I was thinking of adding loctite to the screw - would it make enough of a difference? I have never used it and don't know how much twisting force it would hold? I think blue is the least permanent solution, but is it still a good hold over nothing? Should I try something else?

From what you seem to be describing, it isn't the fact that the screw is coming loose, but that there isn't friction between the two pieces of metal. Thread locker would do no good.

You might take a flat file or even a piece of coarse sandpaper to the point where the plate and L bracket meet. I suspect just hitting one would do it, but you might need to hit both, gently.

I have a Cotton Carrier camera vest. It uses a metal hub that screws to the tripod mount on the bottom of the camera.

To prevent the hub from coming loose, I use a drop or two of Loctite 242 on the screw threads. It is blue color and removable. Works great and never had a problem with it.

Just be sure it says removable. Here's what I use:
https://www.homedepot.​com …Blue-242-209728/100371826

It isn't clear in my my mind what you are describing but if the screw is what imposes the clamping force that creates the friction (as someone has mentioned) then the clamping force needs to be increased or the surface roughened (also as someone mentioned). If you feel that tightening the screw helps, then initially just try some clear nail polish on the threads to "lock" them. If the desired effect is obtained, then go to the blue Loctite (#242) but use it sparingly. On small thread sizes it is quite strong. You can get it at places like Home Depot, Lowes and most hardware stores. It's around $5 to $6 so do the nail polish test first.

WRT thread locker I'm absolutely with John above. Use use clear nail polish first, then blue Loctite, then red Loctite if you must. The red normally requires heat to loosen. I've never used red but I use bSi 102 Insta-Cure for an absolutely permanent lock until the end of time. It's very thin and I'm extremely careful and wear gloves when I'm using it. I've had a tiny bottle for years and it still works great. I'm scared of it though to be honest.

With all of these thread lockers you just need a dab. Drop the dab onto a thread very near to the top end of the bolt you're screwing into the socket. The little dab is worked into the threads below it when you turn the bolt. Be conservative about allowing it to set. Blue Loctite can be broken with a sudden impulsive anti-clockwise wrench of one of the connected parts.

peter_n wrote in post #18830186
WRT thread locker I'm absolutely with John above. Use use clear nail polish first, then blue Loctite, then red Loctite if you must. The red normally requires heat to loosen. I've never used red but I use bSi 102 Insta-Cure for an absolutely permanent lock until the end of time. It's very thin and I'm extremely careful and wear gloves when I'm using it. I've had a tiny bottle for years and it still works great. I'm scared of it though to be honest.

NO!
Don't use red loctite that requires heat to remove. You never used red but advise the OP to use it? Bad idea.

We use the red type at work and it can be very difficult to remove screws that has it.
Use the 242 type as in the link I provided. Nail polish is for nails, loctite is for threaded fasteners.

I think I'll give the blue loctite a try, figring worst case it simply doesn't work...

Assuming it does NOT work, could it actually CAUSE problems i.e. prevent screw from even going in properly after removal?

kaitlyn2004 wrote in post #18830263
I think I'll give the blue loctite a try, figring worst case it simply doesn't work...

Assuming it does NOT work, could it actually CAUSE problems i.e. prevent screw from even going in properly after removal?

The issue is it might just work too well! The product is designed to lock threads to an extent that tools are required to loosen them. Blue is relatively small hand type tools, somewhat dependent on thread size. Red is near permanent often requiring (as someone mentioned) heat. There can be some removal issues with blue hence the reason why I suggested nail polish as a test. That will give you the absolute least potential issues and if it works and you are happy then move to the blue Loctite. This what the manufacturer says about Loctite 242. Note they specifically say it is for fasterers larger than 1/4 inch and do not use on most plastics.


Recommended For
Use on metal fasteners 1/4” (6 mm) to 3/4” (19 mm) in diameter such as bolts on small engines, swing sets and furniture

Not Recommended For
Use on plastic parts, particularly thermoplastic materials where stress cracking of the plastic could result

Perfectly Frank wrote in post #18830248
NO!
Don't use red loctite that requires heat to remove. You never used red but advise the OP to use it? Bad idea.

I did not advise the OP to use red Loctite. I wrote: Use use clear nail polish first, then blue Loctite, then red Loctite if you must.

The meaning of "if you must" is when you think that you probably can't stop a person doing something that you think is wrong.

peter_n wrote in post #18830472
I did not advise the OP to use red Loctite. I wrote: Use use clear nail polish first, then blue Loctite, then red Loctite if you must.

The meaning of "if you must" is when you think that you probably can't stop a person doing something that you think is wrong.

No problem.

I use blue loctite242 on the screw that goes into the tripod thread on the bottom of my camera (1D4 & 80D). Never had a problem removing the screw.

Why not use red? It's 2 pieces of metal and a 'rubber pad'. The rubber pad is on the cheapest part, the plate and that's the only part at risk of damage from heat.
Almost everyone has a stove. If you need to remove, throw the bracket with plate attached in some boiling water for 2 minutes.
Even a hair dryer will provide enough heat.

Using red on the tripod socket of a camera body would obviously be risky as need for heat could damage the camera.

Choderboy wrote in post #18830638
Why not use red? It's 2 pieces of metal and a 'rubber pad'. The rubber pad is on the cheapest part, the plate and that's the only part at risk of damage from heat.
Almost everyone has a stove. If you need to remove, throw the bracket with plate attached in some boiling water for 2 minutes.
Even a hair dryer will provide enough heat.

Using red on the tripod socket of a camera body would obviously be risky as need for heat could damage the camera.

From the manufacturer Henkels/Loctite:

Now, I'll say, as a mechanical engineer with 45 years of experience, that a "formidable" bond is obtained when the threads are clean and properly torqued; i. e., ideal conditions. So, if we positively know the threads have sunscreen, peanut butter or whatever on them go ahead and use red. But if we also have a person using the product that reads and follows the directions, the likelihood is high that significant damage can occur.

I will say that you have no dog in the fight, nor do I, so if the OP uses 242 "blue" or 222 "red" and screws up the tripod for whatever reason, he/she can't come back to either of us. However, should he/she "sneak" up on things, using what camera technicians used 50 years ago (nail polish), they can always do it over if it doesn't hold.

I don't know of a 550 degree hair dryer.