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Thread started 14 Sep 2019 (Saturday) 06:26
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Which shot is through the window

 
bob_r
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Sep 16, 2019 09:40 |  #16

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #18927410 (external link)
I do find that at certain times of the day when everything is backlit I have to be careful of reflections of the camera on the window, I try different covers.

Having suffered a stroke and being on blood thinners I really feel the cold and working outside below freezing is not in the cards for me. It is either through the window or hang up the gear until April

There are other options. In my area (and at my age), I'm more concerned with heat than cold (it's supposed to hit 97° today), but have found a way to still shoot when the heat indices exceed 110°. I set up a feeder, put my camera on a tripod (and flashes on stands, when needed), and attach a wireless remote and a flash trigger to the camera. I focus somewhere close to or on the feeder using a narrow aperture (often requiring a flash), then I go inside and wait for a bird to come near my focus area and take the shot. Here are a couple of images I took using this method and thought it might work for you too. (The first image taken with flash and the second without)

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Sep 16, 2019 15:17 |  #17

I do that with hummingbirds, set up two cameras aimed at different points but in the winter I like to get shots of birds in snowstorms, also unless you run electric out there and an electric adapter for the camera battery life can be in the minutes, cold kills batteries and it will be Zero to 10 above (F) many days.

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Sep 16, 2019 20:16 |  #18

Regarding the first examples being posted, you said they were 100% crops. They look too good to be 100% crops to me.
Are you saying the crops were only this much of the original images? (examples for either 80D or 6D2)

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Sep 16, 2019 20:25 |  #19

Choderboy wrote in post #18928113 (external link)
Regarding the first examples being posted, you said they were 100% crops. They look too good to be 100% crops to me.
Are you saying the crops were only this much of the original images? (examples for either 80D or 6D2)
Hosted photo: posted by Choderboy in
./showthread.php?p=189​28113&i=i27379418
forum: General Photography Talk

Hosted photo: posted by Choderboy in
./showthread.php?p=189​28113&i=i267623717
forum: General Photography Talk


SORRY, I confused 100% with 100% full size image! Blame my age, my stroke and not paying attention (ask my wife)


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Sep 16, 2019 20:34 |  #20

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #18928114 (external link)
SORRY, I confused 100% with 100% full size image! Blame my age, my stroke and not paying attention (ask my wife)

No harm done.
A good shot will look better than the following examples at 100% crop but this original is good enough to still crop a lot and resize to 1280 and look good.
Full image then a 100% crop with some sharpening.

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Sep 16, 2019 22:39 |  #21

For winter shooting, if you have windows that slide up/down (ie. not casement windows), you can build an insulated panel that sits between the window and the bottom sash, custom sized to the window tracks and the window itself. Just cut out a circle for the lens to pop through. It should keep most of the cold or heat on the proper side of that panel and removes the glass out of the equation.


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Sep 17, 2019 05:26 |  #22

I am going to try several different approaches. Last year I bought a two way mirror to shoot through, since any movement inside is seen by the birds, but found it lost at least 4 stops, way too much.

one thing I need is a wide range of movement in the camera, some of the best shots have been on the snow on the ground, others on the feeder and new branch and others high in the bushes in the back.


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Sep 17, 2019 07:24 |  #23

What kind of window do you have?

Casement? Single or double hung?

Can you get a storm window to replace the screen? A single pane of glass will effect your images differently than a dual or triple pane, while helping to keep some of the cold out.


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Sep 17, 2019 11:25 |  #24

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #18927958 (external link)
I like to get shots of birds in snowstorms

Me too!

Birds and wildlife in the snow and ice are some of the most beautiful nature photos one can get! . Each year, when the snow and ice melt away, and spring moves in, is a sad time for me because I will have to wait so long for a chance to get snow and ice shots again.

.

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #18927958 (external link)
..... unless you run electric out there and an electric adapter for the camera battery life can be in the minutes, cold kills batteries and it will be Zero to 10 above (F) many days.

Something seems off about this. What camera are you using?

I spend a lot of time with my camera in blinds, out in winter temperatures that are down in the single digits. . Hours on end. . None of my cameras have had battery life "in the minutes", as you suggest. . Even little prosumer cameras with their pathetic little batteries last for three to five hours, unless I'm shooting hundreds of shots per hour. . But it doesn't seem like you are shooting all that much, as you have said that sometimes you have to wait hours for a bird to come in and present a favorable opportunity.

If your battery life is really as bad as you say, then I suspect that the battery you are using is near the end of its life. . Getting a new battery should give you two to four hours of shooting in zero degree fahrenheit. . In such temperatures, with a good battery, battery life is in the hours, not in the minutes. . This is based on lots and lots of personal experience out in sub-freezing temperatures with lots of different camera models.

.

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #18928264 (external link)
I am going to try several different approaches. Last year I bought a two way mirror to shoot through, since any movement inside is seen by the birds, but found it lost at least 4 stops, way too much.

If your window is double-hung, then just a piece of 1 1/2 inch thick foam insulation with a hole in it should work quite well. . Make the hole a couple inches bigger around than you need to fit the lens through; the extra space will provide room to move the lens around at different angles and also give you space to see through, so that you can see where the birds are. . Fitting the panel to the window dimensions and installing it in the window opening is similar to putting an air conditioner in the window; it's easy and only takes a minute or three to get everything set just right.

I've done this many times (shoot through a panel of insulation with a hole in it), although I have not done it through a window yet. . When I've shot through the insulation panel, it has been part of a blind, not in a window, but it will work the same way.

.

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #18928264 (external link)
one thing I need is a wide range of movement in the camera, some of the best shots have been on the snow on the ground, others on the feeder and new branch and others high in the bushes in the back.

"High in the bushes in the back" sounds less than ideal for high quality bird photos. . You could set things up in a way that gets the birds to land in more predictable spots. . In fact, you can make it so that you actually "tell" the bird which branch to land on, and they will land just where you direct them to.

The basic trick is to figure out where, ideally, you would like the birds to land. . What place will be close enough to you for frame-filling closeups? . What place would align the birds with the most pleasing background? . Which spot has the light falling on it from the most favorable angle? . Once you identify this place, put a nice, attractive perch branch there. . You can go out in the woods and search for the "perfect" branch, one that has character, is relatively thin (small diameter), and one that is complementary in color to the birds you want to photograph.

The perch can be held up in place with rebar stakes or affixed to a cheap tripod that you leave out there ...... anything, really. . Just take measures that ensure that the birds land on the perch itself instead of on thing that is holding the perch up - that looks ugly.

Once you have the perfect perch in place, in the perfect location, then set your bird feed about 18" below the branch, and two to three feet in front of it. . By "in front of it", I mean toward the camera. . Most birds will land on the perch prior to feeding. . They will alight on the perch, look this way and that for a moment or three, then hop down to the feed.

The few moments when they are on the perch, before they feed, is when you can effectively photograph them. . They may hop back on the perch after they grab some food, but in these instances they usually have a piece of bird seed in their bill, which does not make for a very pleasing or natural looking photograph. . So try to get them on their approach, not on their departure.

You can gather a variety of perches and then switch them out on a daily, or hourly, basis. . This will ensure that your photos look fresh and new and that you don't end up with a bunch of photos of the birds on the same stick, day after day. Friends of mine that do this type of set-up shooting have a wonderful array of perches that they have gathered over the course of years. .. You can even cut fresh perches in season, for added interest, such as a Bluebird on blooming Eastern Redbud, or a Song Sparrow on newly blooming moss, or an Oriole perched amongst peach blossoms.

Likewise with the birds landing on the ground in the snow; don't let them land just anywhere - "tell" them what area of the ground to land on by the way you arrange your feeding station. . You can make a shallow trench in the surface of the snow, about an inch deep and no more than an inch across. . Make the trenches perpendicular to the camera/subject axis. . Then put bird seed in the bottom of the shallow trench. . Make sure that your footprints are not near the trench - when making the trench, reach over away from your body so that your footprints are at least two feet away. . When done correctly, neither the trench nor the seed will be seen by the camera.

Typically, once the birds discover the seed in the trench, they will land on the snow a few feet behind the trench, then walk or hop atop the snow toward the trench to feed. . This gives you an opportunity to get pics of the birds before they have a seed in their bill (which is unsightly).

You will probably find that shooting from the window at a downward angle toward the ground is not ideal. . So there is something you can do about that. . Before the snow falls, get a folding table from your garage and set it up where you want the birds to land - preferably close enough to the window to give frame-filling photos. . After the snow falls, and covers the table top, go out and make a trench in the snow on the table top, in the way I suggested earlier. . Now you will be able to get the birds in the snow up at a height nearer that of the window, so that you don't have that nasty downward angle to deal with. . Eye level to the birds is usually most preferable, so if the table isn't high enough you can just add two by fours as leg extensions to get that table top up as high as the window.

This is the great thing about backyard feeding stations - you can pretty much control everything, including where the birds land, perch material, backgrounds, light, etc. . YOU, the photographer, are in control of everything!

.


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Sep 17, 2019 13:36 |  #25

TeamSpeed wrote in post #18928314 (external link)
What kind of window do you have?

Casement? Single or double hung?

Can you get a storm window to replace the screen? A single pane of glass will effect your images differently than a dual or triple pane, while helping to keep some of the cold out.

Double hung insulated with air gap, Anderson.

I get results that so far I am happy with, no storm or screen and keep the window open unless it is really cold and even on many days when it is 25 or 30 degrees out I open the window.


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Sep 17, 2019 13:40 as a reply to  @ Tom Reichner's post |  #26

Thanks for all the great advice. I had never considered a table in the side yard to let it get covered with snow to raise the birds more to eye level. I will try that!

oh one problem with the table SQUIRRELS I have a ton of them and while my wife loves them I hate to feed them all my seed. I will see what I can do about the table being far enough away and low enough that they cannot launch themselves to the feeders


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Sep 17, 2019 14:54 |  #27

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18928437 (external link)
. You could set things up in a way that gets the birds to land in more predictable spots. . In fact, you can make it so that you actually "tell" the bird which branch to land on, and they will land just where you direct them to.

The basic trick is to ..............

.

That is a great tutorial Tom.....bw!


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Sep 17, 2019 15:21 |  #28

Gregsiem wrote in post #18928555 (external link)
.
That is a great tutorial Tom.....bw!
.

.
Thank you, Greg!
.
Thing is ..... it all really works!

Most of us could probably get higher quality bird photos in our backyards than we could anywhere else on earth, because nowhere else will we have the ability to control so many of the factors. . It can be a lot of fun and very rewarding for those who like to stay home during the brutally cold winter months, but who still want to photograph wild birds.

The image-making possibilities are practically limitless - whatever you can think up, there's probably a way to make it happen in your backyard.

Take this shot, for example. . Was it taken in a boreal forest, high atop a stand of Canadian White Birch?

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Heck no!

It was taken from my chair blind, down at ground level. . A piece of blue cloth bought at Walmart, some fallen limbs with holes drilled into them and stuffed with suet, affixed to metal fence posts with Zip-ties ..... off to the side there are seed platforms with a tripod holding a freshly cut Redbud branch, for other shots .....

My view from within the blind (which could just as well be your kitchen window). . If you can think it up, you can probably create it in your yard. . It's fun!

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"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Sep 17, 2019 15:33 |  #29

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18928562 (external link)
.
Thank you, Greg!
.
Thing is ..... it all really works!

@Moderators...Lester, Jake...anyone listening?
Can’t you make Tom’s post a sticky tutorial on how to shoot birds at home?


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Sep 17, 2019 16:01 |  #30

Tom what a GREAT setup


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