Overwhelmed - New Computer or upgrade.

So your suggestion is still for the OP not to install the SSD she already bought, and buy more RAM...which normally doesn't address a sluggish system.

"Most people argue over who's right, not about what the truth is."

- Bob Saget, comedian.

davesrose wrote in post #19001783
So your suggestion is still for the OP not to install the SSD she already bought, and buy more RAM...which normally doesn't address a sluggish system.

I did not say that! I said merely to make an easy and not-expensive upgrade!

In post 45 I was merely pointing out the SSD was not a throwaway expense if the old PC is toast...it could be used in an external USB-connect enclosure even with a new PC that has its own SSD built in from the factory.

I sense some rancor to my posts on this thread, Dave. Odd, in view of the fact that we ordinarily don't have that type of pattern in general.
We are both trying to help the OP, aren't we?

I'm sorry if there's some context lost on the nuances of the internet. I did see some of your posts that you edited. I just thought you were a bit dismissive about setting up a SSD as being too hard a task, and that buying and installing more RAM would be a solution to the OP's complaint of a slow system (post 39). I might have also been a guilty of trying to get my point across of making sure what RAM configuration the OP's system can support...but from what I can see, it is 2x8GB. The RAM doesn't have to be paired...the OP could have gotten one 8GB stick for a total 12GB. I have an older Dell Precision mobile workstation that has 12GB of RAM. It's running Windows 10, Adobe CC, and Autodesk Maya. Granted it has a Nvidia Quadro card for video/3D animation....but have never found 12GB to be a bottle neck for its more intensive tasks. It also has 4 cores (though an i7).

Anyway, I think we have gone in a circle in first saying the OP should look at optimizing her computer (it should still be good for her uses), to well it might be futile and just get a new computer. I'm a hard core computer nerd, so I like getting the most out of a system. I have a very underpowered laptop for use at work, and it's not sluggish with system operations and Adobe CC: one main spec it has apart from the OP is a SSD drive. You mention it may not be worth it to spend more money (and that's a main point I'd agree with)....I think it's still worth it to make sure your current system is optimized before giving up and chalking to getting a new computer. I've personally seen how software issues can seriously slow down programs and even systems. While mirroring that same software to a SSD may speed things up a bit, it would still be even faster if you fixed the software issues first.

I have to side with "daverose" on this situation. The OP needs see if there is some inherent reason why the PC is sluggish. It is entirely possible there is a software problem; it is also entirely possible that something is happening in the background and the user is unaware of the activity. Defrag for instance is enabled by default to run automatically in Windows 7 Pro, and when it kicks in on an HDD things noticeably slow down. In addition, allowing defrag to run but not to completion, can actually create a worse situation. Another common situation I see; earlier I asked, or thought I did, about the remaining space on the hard drive. I'm not sure that information has been supplied. Available space, if low, becomes a critical parameter for the paging file.

But once all reasonable approaches are completed to correct software related issues then it is time to install the SSD and get it operating. Addition of further RAM, from the existing 8 to 12 or 16GB of RAM, will not have the effect readily apparent with a swap of HDD to SSD.

We also should look at the OP's original problem statement...

The OP brought up several good points in that statement. She has the hardware to move to an SSD, she should do so after eliminating or minimizing the effects of the easy stuff.

John from PA wrote in post #19001907
I have to side with "daverose" on this situation. The OP needs see if there is some inherent reason why the PC is sluggish. It is entirely possible there is a software problem; it is also entirely possible that something is happening in the background and the user is unaware of the activity. Defrag for instance is enabled by default to run automatically in Windows 7 Pro, and when it kicks in on an HDD things noticeably slow down. In addition, allowing defrag to run but not to completion, can actually create a worse situation. Another common situation I see; earlier I asked, or thought I did, about the remaining space on the hard drive. I'm not sure that information has been supplied. Available space, if low, becomes a critical parameter for the paging file.

But once all reasonable approaches are completed to correct software related issues then it is time to install the SSD and get it operating. Addition of further RAM, from the existing 8 to 12 or 16GB of RAM, will not have the effect readily apparent with a swap of HDD to SSD.

We also should look at the OP's original problem statement...

The OP brought up several good points in that statement. She has the hardware to move to an SSD, she should do so after eliminating or minimizing the effects of the easy stuff.

John makes a good point about the possibility of other software possibly running in the background without your knowledge. This will hog resources and slow things down.

It might be a program that is loading at boot/start-up. You can easily find this out by checking your start-up configuration. Just open Task Manager and click on the Startup tab. You will see what is running (ENABLED) and what is not (DISABLED). It will also show you how much of an impact it's having on your system, ie - how big a hog it is for memory and CPU power.

Lot's of time machines come with AdWare, CrapWare, Bloatware which was preloaded to start running every time you turn the machine on. It's often easy to turn off and even uninstall. This type of s/w can also "sneaks" in with free downloads or trial s/w. You find something on the web you like, you download and install it, and during installation it adds something else because the user didn't click a box that said "NO, DO NOT INSTALL" or some such verbiage. This is quite common - sorry about your pain and frustration though.....been there done that..... - Stu

texkam wrote in post #19001592
https://ubuntu.com …d-software-considerations

Good thorough article I'll leave here. If interestinterested, wait till April. Ubuntu Linux will issue a new Long Term Support (LTS) release in April with support through 2025.

Hopefully CCleaner can straighten some things out.

Hi Texkam,

Reading with interest! THANKS SO MUCH! Much appreciated.

John from PA wrote in post #19001575
I had forgotten that you are doing the drive swap (HDD >> SSD) on a desktop which means you might need a couple of special cables. I suggest you review the thread at https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=18969989 taking special attention that the OP on that thread was swapping a drive in a laptop, not a desktop. Can you provide a link or the exact model of the Crucial drive you have/

I saw a comment earlier about some cloning software and you are correct the Crucial software will work fine and may even eliminate some problems since it is specifically for the Crucial drive.

[Edit added info]See https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=KeUsRtTLeoQ for what might be involved moving forward.

Hi John from PA,

Thinking of doing an add instead of replace as someone suggested. It may come down to my technical abilities. Still considering. Thanks so very much for the thread and youtube link. I appreciate that you have taken the time to consider my situation and offer appropriate advice.

I'll keep you post on my progress.

StarlingGirl

If there is indeed a significant chance that part of the problem is some corrupt or malicious software lurking somewhere, does it make sense to copy EVERYTHING over to the new drive? Would it not be safer to start afresh, re-installing only the programs that are necessary and/or believed to be 'safe'?

At the very least, this is an opportunity to do a spring clean, dispensing with apps, programs and leftovers that are not mission critical.

Yes, I know it's more work, but it could be worth it. That's what I did with my iMac.

Agreed, on all the points

Mozes wrote in post #19001568
If you go for the updates.
And do a win10 install, do also a update for the graphic intel processor.
There is just a update https://www.intel.com …tel-hd-graphics-4600.html

Mozes,

This seems very important. Thank you so much for sharing your insight!!!


As ever, thanks again.

StarlingGirl

BTW, John from PA. I ran the chkdsk as recommended - although I did not run with any suffixes (i.e., /F). Does it make a difference? No issues were found. I presume that's a good thing.

thanks again.


EDIT: I do have a cable that goes from USB to SSD to initially mirror/copy(what ever it is called) the HDD. Also, not so intimidated by HW install. It's the sequence of steps to copy/mirror my OS that concerns me the most.

thank you for everything.

StarlingGirl wrote in post #19002122
BTW, John from PA. I ran the chkdsk as recommended - although I did not run with any suffixes (i.e., /F). Does it make a difference? No issues were found. I presume that's a good thing.

thanks again.


EDIT: I do have a cable that goes from USB to SSD to initially mirror/copy(what ever it is called) the HDD. Also, not so intimidated by HW install. It's the sequence of steps to copy/mirror my OS that concerns me the most.

thank you for everything.

The fact that you ran CHKDSK without the switches and no problem were reported is good. The /F switch in particular is to direct CHKDSK to “fix” if it encounters any issues.

I would use the USB to SSD cable you have to clone the existing drive. Then open your desktop and look around for the space for the drive. Hopefully the SSD came as a kit; if so you should have a 2.5 to 3.5 mounting adapter. Something like https://www.amazon.com …-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A. If not you might have to buy one. The are typically $10 or less online, maybe $15 at BestBuy. Your desktop (as the video shows) may have the connection cable to an SSD drive. If so the connector will resemble the connector on your drive. The key is two sections to the connector; one is relatively large (maybe 1-1/4 inches) as compared to the other section (about a 1/2 inch). I’m guessing at those dimensions as I don’t have the connector in front of me.

Once the HDD is cloned to the SSD and the SSD is installed, all you have to do (usuallu) is make the SSD the boot drive in BIOS. The Crucial software may actually be designed to prompt you about this need.

Before you do all this experiment a bit and determine the key needed to get you into the BIOS settings.

While you have the case open check for any air filter and clean it and is you see any huge amounts of dust try to vacuum with a low level of suction. I had a desktop for repair recently that kept shutting down after about 15 minutes. When I opened the case it was full of cat hair. It took about 5 minutes to clean so I didn’t even charge the client1

John from PA wrote in post #19001575
I had forgotten that you are doing the drive swap (HDD >> SSD) on a desktop which means you might need a couple of special cables. I suggest you review the thread at https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=18969989 taking special attention that the OP on that thread was swapping a drive in a laptop, not a desktop. Can you provide a link or the exact model of the Crucial drive you have/

I saw a comment earlier about some cloning software and you are correct the Crucial software will work fine and may even eliminate some problems since it is specifically for the Crucial drive.

[Edit added info]See https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=KeUsRtTLeoQ for what might be involved moving forward.

John from PA wrote in post #19001907
I have to side with "daverose" on this situation. The OP needs see if there is some inherent reason why the PC is sluggish. It is entirely possible there is a software problem; it is also entirely possible that something is happening in the background and the user is unaware of the activity. Defrag for instance is enabled by default to run automatically in Windows 7 Pro, and when it kicks in on an HDD things noticeably slow down. In addition, allowing defrag to run but not to completion, can actually create a worse situation. Another common situation I see; earlier I asked, or thought I did, about the remaining space on the hard drive. I'm not sure that information has been supplied. Available space, if low, becomes a critical parameter for the paging file.

But once all reasonable approaches are completed to correct software related issues then it is time to install the SSD and get it operating. Addition of further RAM, from the existing 8 to 12 or 16GB of RAM, will not have the effect readily apparent with a swap of HDD to SSD.

We also should look at the OP's original problem statement...

The OP brought up several good points in that statement. She has the hardware to move to an SSD, she should do so after eliminating or minimizing the effects of the easy stuff.

Hi Wilt, Davesrose, John from PA, SaPearl,

I read with interest the comments about what should come next and I cannot express my deep gratitude on ALL of your input. Even the banter I found interesting and caught myself smiling. You all are phenomenal tech guys - girls? . I truly appreciate your expertise and the time and interest that's been given. Outstanding.

Two points -
1) Based on what's been said and my wherewithal, here's my plan: Given I have the SSD, I will either add to the HD or replace existing HD - depends on what's required and my skill set. I'd like to keep the existing HD for the added space. The SSD is 1TB BTW. If it improves my experience enough to use photo editing SW, then I'm done. If in the future I need a boost, I'll add the additional RAM with help from all of you! [Lesson Learned - max out RAM on old computer system given it's easy and cheap].

2) John from PA and another brought up the state of existing HD and background programs running. Re: background programs; sometimes I hear/see something running else running in the background and cannot figure out what it is. I do hear the what I suspect is the accessing of the HD and the blue light persistently blinking. It's not often, but frustrating when it does occur. I am aware of the startup programs and try to stay on top of them. I know to minimize the bloatware when downloading something - though I've missed it enough times. Anyway, I do attempt to keep background programs at bay. Regarding my HD space, it's maxed - I think! :/ Is the picture that I provided below the right image or is another needed? let me know. I defrag occasionally. I'm not sure why it's so maxed. Possibly backups but hard to tell. I usually only keep 1 or 2 back ups. I'm just not sure what the problem is.

MY personal files (pictures, videos - not many, documents) aren't very large so I am not sure. By adding the SSD and upgrading to Windows 10, I suspected this will resolve itself. I'll copy my personal files and overwrite everything else. This may not work with both scenarios - upgrade vs replace OS - upgrade Space to include both SSD and HDD or simply replace the HDD with the SSD. It's just my initially thinking.

Anyway, thanks again to all of you.

StarlingGirl

John from PA wrote in post #19002136
The fact that you ran CHKDSK without the switches and no problem were reported is good. The /F witch in particular is to direct CHKDSK to “fix” if it encounters any issues.

I would use the USB to SSD cable you have to clone the existing drive. Then open your desktop and look around for the space for the drive. Hopefully the SSD came as a kit; if so you should have a 2.5 to 3.5 mounting adapter. Something like https://www.amazon.com …-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A. If not you might have to buy one. The are typically $10 or less online, maybe $15 at BestBuy. Your desktop (as the video shows) may have the connection cable to an SSD drive. If so the connector will resemble the connector on your drive. The key is two sections to the connector; one is relatively large (maybe 1-1/4 inches) as compared to the other section (about a 1/2 inch). I’m guessing at those dimensions as I don’t have the connector in front of me.

Once the HDD is cloned to the SSD and the SSD is installed, all you have to do (usuallu) is make the SSD the boot drive in BIOS. The Crucial software may actually be designed to prompt you about this need.

Before you do all this experiment a bit and determine the key needed to get you into the BIOS settings.

While you have the case open check for any air filter and clean it and is you see any huge amounts of dust try to vacuum with a low level of suction. I had a desktop for repair recently that kept shutting down after about 15 minutes. When I opened the case it was full of cat hair. It took about 5 minutes to clean so I didn’t even charge the client1

Hi John from PA:

I have the mounting hardware - 2.5 to 3.5. After watching video you linked, I'll have to confirm there's sufficient space to keep both the HDD and the SSD. Shouldn't be hard to tell. I'll look for the two connectors. I hope I have connectors for both.

Your summary sounds so simple!!! I can get to the BIOS settings - so not a problem. When I read the Crucials/Acronis instructions to do this, that's when I got overwhelmed.

1. create bootable disc (DVD) - verify it can be accessed.
2. create backup of Full PC (?) Isn't the HDD the backup by default?
3. Create clone on SSD using cables
4. Install SSD
5. Set BIOS to recognize SSD to boot [Command: end > select SSD]
6. reformat HDD, use to store back ups and pictures!
7. SSD firmware.

It's when I run into a problem that scares me. LOL. Are these the major steps? Am I missing anything major?

When do I upgrade to Windows 10? On HDD before SSD is written? or after SSD is installed and everything is working okay?

As ever, thank you.