5D Mark IV.....just wondering

How many use this for bird photography?.. would use with a 100-400 mk ii and 1.4. Finding myself shooting in more low light situations. I.e on wooded trails during spring/fall migration, more cloudy days than sunny. Have never been thrilled with high iso shots 3200-6400 with 7D Mkii. I know about crop factor diff, shutter speed, etc etc. would just like to hear from user and their results with 5D Mark IV. This is option and will probably wait till mid year to see what canon has new in R series befor I decided on final direction.

The AF system is newer and improved over the 7D2, but I shoot both and would say for birds that it's not a lot different. Better, but I've always been happy with my 7D2.

It definitely works better with t-Cons than the 7D2.

Thanks, that’s the info I was looking for......will wait and see what Canon has coming up over the next few months

I've been shooting birds with 5D IV and Sigma 150-600C with a great satisfaction. I had 5D III, which I was very happy with, but I decided to upgrade it to 5D IV for better crop tolerance. It was worth the upgrade just based on that reason alone. I'm now interested in looking at the soon to be released R5 and see what it has in store for bird photography.

Thanks......with new Canon R5 and possible R6 coming out along with new Fuji X-4T putting things on hold for now. Used a bigma in past, like the lens just to heavy for me to carry anymore. That extra pound adds up on long hikes and not getting any younger

Pauhana wrote in post #19015728
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How many use this for bird photography?
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I got a 5D4 recently, and it will be my main bird & wildlife camera for the foreseeable future. . Coming from a 1D4 with 16 megapixels and a 6D with 20 megapixels, I am really looking forward to the higher resolution of the 5D4. . I expect to see more feather detail resolved than I saw with my previous bodies. . The whole reason to photograph birds is to capture all of that intricate detail in the individual filaments of each feather, so the 5D4 should make a difference that really matters.

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Pauhana wrote in post #19015728
..... would use with a 100-400 mk ii and 1.4.
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I will be using it with my 100-400mm quite a bit. . But personally, I don't care for the results when I use a 1.4 extender on my 100-400mm. . The extender worked great with my 400mm f2.8 prime lens, but with zoom lenses I do notice a bit of softness in hair and feather detail when printing very large or viewing beyone 100% (which I do a lot). . If I can't get close enough with the naked lens, then I just don't bother taking any pictures. . It's better to have no pictures at all than to have pictures where you weren't really close enough to fill the frame the way you wanted to.

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Pauhana wrote in post #19015728
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Finding myself shooting in more low light situations. I.e on wooded trails during spring/fall migration, more cloudy days than sunny. Have never been thrilled with high iso shots 3200-6400 with 7D Mkii.
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I can certainly understand not being satisfied with 7D2 photos taken at 3200 ISO. . Many of the serious, successful wildlife photographers I know who use a 7D2 claim that it is only good up to 1600, for their purposes. . All indications show that the 5D4 will provide suitable image quality up to 3200, but professionals who have it are not happy beyond that ..... again based on their purposes, which is to submit the photos to publishers who are very picky about image quality and who do not allow you to use any noise reduction in the images that you submit. . Guys on forums often have much less demanding standards, and consider extremely high ISOs to be acceptable.

I contend that one never really needs anything higher than 3200 ISO. . I mean, if the light is that low then just don't take pictures. . It's better to have no picture at all than to have pictures with technical issues.

But with the great stabilization on the 100-400mm v2, when handholding at 400mm, you can get away with shutter speeds as slow as 1/25th of a second when your subject is stationary. . So you can still take real high quality photos when it's quite dark out, even if you limit yourself to 3200 ISO.

Many people who shoot birds and wildlife think that they need much faster shutter speed than they really do. . That's a myth. . If your subject is stationary, then you can shoot at speeds that are far slower than what most people realize. . By slowing your shutter speed way down, you can keep the ISO low, and get much more beautiful photographs that don't have unsightly noise grain. . If you have a lens with modern IS, or if you are on a tripod, then the only time you need shutter speeds faster than 1/60th of a second is when your subject is in motion.


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