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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Digital Cameras 
Thread started 09 Jul 2020 (Thursday) 08:06
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Canon EOS R5 Unite and Discuss!

 
LoneRider
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Post edited over 2 years ago by LoneRider. (2 edits in all)
     
Nov 21, 2020 10:33 |  #1861

goalerjones wrote in post #19154109 (external link)
I am getting $100 off thru a CPW deal which basically pays for the adapter, so it's okay to wait


I figured I would be waiting anyway, so also went with CPW. If I’m gonna wait, might as well save a little money.

Had mine for a bit now, my July order was filled by the third shipment.


Wayne...
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Canon EOS R5, R6, R7, and a bunch of glass...

  
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Indpho
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Nov 21, 2020 11:29 |  #1862

When both cards are inserted and the camera is turned on , are both cards powered up
even though it is writing to only one card ?
If writing to only the SD card , would it be advantageous to remove the CFE card
to improve battery life and reduce heat assuming both cards are powered up ?




  
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Windsun33
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Nov 21, 2020 11:31 |  #1863

LoneRider wrote in post #19155192 (external link)
I sold/traded some gear to MPB in exchange for a used EF 8-15mm f/4L lens.rice.

I would liked to have got more for the stuff I sent them but wasn’t getting any interest trying to sell myself and they gotta make a profit so there comes a point when less than what you want is better than nothing and spending time listing and dealing with low ballers.

I feel your pain. I have a couple of cameras and lenses to get rid of also, like 70D and 6D. I could probably get more selling them online via eBay or something, but the more I think about it not worth the effort and the hassle.


My first real camera was a Canon F1. That was a long time ago.

  
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Methodical
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Nov 21, 2020 13:11 |  #1864

Indpho wrote in post #19155039 (external link)
Currently have R6 , looking to add R5 sometime next year.
Just one question. Does the R5 need both cards inserted to operate or
will it work with just the SD card inserted ?


I suggest you get the V90 (SDII) cards for faster speeds and just in case you decide you want to flip that video switch. Catch them on sale of course Adorama sells the The Prograde 64gb for $65. I would not waste time using the SD I cards as they are too slow. A sports photographer used the SD I card and couldn't understand why he was hitting the buffer, but we schooled him real quick.

https://www.adorama.co​m/pgrd64gbckna.html (external link)


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Methodical
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Nov 21, 2020 13:13 |  #1865

mccamli wrote in post #19155089 (external link)
That's crazy. These new mirrorless bodies are certainly interesting!

It is. Prior to getting the R5, I rarely ever used the 2x. But, it works pretty good with the 600.


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Post edited over 2 years ago by Methodical. (3 edits in all)
     
Nov 21, 2020 13:15 |  #1866

venghous1 wrote in post #19155137 (external link)
For those who use Eye AF.. Human and animal... do you leave it turned on all the time, or just when you need it.. I am a landscape shooter 95% of the time, but also do wildlife when it presents itself.. Do you just leave it on and if it senses an eye it engages? or do i have to enable it for each use

Since you do mostly landscape, I would program it to another AF button and use it when needed or use those customs settings. I think most use it when needed and have it program to one of the AF back buttons. I use C1-C3 for various main AF settings along with the back buttons


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Post edited over 2 years ago by Methodical. (4 edits in all)
     
Nov 21, 2020 13:22 |  #1867

LoneRider wrote in post #19155192 (external link)
...I would liked to have got more for the stuff I sent them but wasn’t getting any interest trying to sell myself and they gotta make a profit so there comes a point when less than what you want is better than nothing and spending time listing and dealing with low ballers.

I totally agree. They actually quoted right in the ball park for my gear and surprisingly higher for one camera body compared to the selling prices around here and on FM, but I know that could change once they inspect the gear, however, I don't fear that because all my gear is in mint condition. I a willing to take a small hit to avoid all the hassles, now days, of selling gear.

How long did it take to the exchange and/or get payment?

Thanks...


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Nov 21, 2020 13:25 |  #1868

Windsun33 wrote in post #19155218 (external link)
I feel your pain. I have a couple of cameras and lenses to get rid of also, like 70D and 6D. I could probably get more selling them online via eBay or something, but the more I think about it not worth the effort and the hassle.

Remember, time is money.


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Nov 21, 2020 15:29 |  #1869

Methodical wrote in post #19155292 (external link)
I totally agree. They actually quoted right in the ball park for my gear and surprisingly higher for one camera body compared to the selling prices around here and on FM, but I know that could change once they inspect the gear, however, I don't fear that because all my gear is in mint condition. I a willing to take a small hit to avoid all the hassles, now days, of selling gear.

How long did it take to the exchange and/or get payment?

Thanks...


Online quote, give them bank info (they direct deposit payment to your acct)

Print off a label for FedEx (need to supply own box, the FedEx service they use doesn’t get you a free box)

Drop it off at FedEx, once they received it (took about 3 days, I am west coast they are east) it took them a business day to check my gear. Email confirmed condition and they sent me the lens and deposited the difference in my bank account the following day.

Took the lens I got from them 3 business days to get to me, so start to finish payment to my account was about 7 calendar days and 10 calendar days for the lens with a weekend in the middle.


Wayne...
~I don't suffer from gear ADD, I embrace and enjoy it...~
Canon EOS R5, R6, R7, and a bunch of glass...

  
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Nov 21, 2020 16:26 |  #1870

LoneRider wrote in post #19155337 (external link)
Online quote, give them bank info (they direct deposit payment to your acct)

Print off a label for FedEx (need to supply own box, the FedEx service they use doesn’t get you a free box)

Drop it off at FedEx, once they received it (took about 3 days, I am west coast they are east) it took them a business day to check my gear. Email confirmed condition and they sent me the lens and deposited the difference in my bank account the following day.

Took the lens I got from them 3 business days to get to me, so start to finish payment to my account was about 7 calendar days and 10 calendar days for the lens with a weekend in the middle.

Sounds good. Thanks


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Nov 21, 2020 20:18 |  #1871

RDKirk wrote in post #19153338 (external link)
I jumped on this as soon as I read your post. As I'm re-opening my residential studio operations, I've started making much more client contact through Zoom meetings. However, I've found the lack of eye contact a real problem. I want to be making eye contact and seeing their facial reactions as I'm speaking.

I was considering a teleprompter anyway to make informational videos, but that suggestion put me over the bar to make the decision.

I've watched a lot of Caleb's videos over the years (starting back when he had a full head of hair). He provides some good info. After watching that one, I immediately went to Amazon and purchased that teleprompter along with an inexpensive tiny computer monitor to attach to my studio laptop. This idea works well, and I think it will solve my problem.

Thanks.

I'm really happy with that teleprompter setup and it works great. I do wish my teleprompter and screen were a bit larger at times when I'm using it for other people, but I have it usually within about arms-length which works fine for me at my desk.


EOS R3 | EOS R5 | EOS R | 5D Mk4
RF 70-200 f/2.8L IS | RF 28-70 f/2L | RF 24-70 f/2.8L IS | RF 15-35 f/2.8L IS
RF 135mm f/1.8L IS |RF 85mm f/1.2L | RF 85mm f/2 macro IS | RF 50mm f/1.2L | RF 50mm f/1.8 | RF 35mm f/1.8 macro IS | RF 24mm f/1.8 macro IS | RF 16mm f/2.8
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Nov 21, 2020 22:54 |  #1872

venghous1 wrote in post #19155137 (external link)
For those who use Eye AF.. Human and animal... do you leave it turned on all the time, or just when you need it.. I am a landscape shooter 95% of the time, but also do wildlife when it presents itself.. Do you just leave it on and if it senses an eye it engages? or do i have to enable it for each use


EYE AUTOFOCUS

I'm still working on the details of this topic. I have eye autofocus turned on at all times but there is a slight occasional drawback.
If the camera decides to jump from one eye to another when you're working with a shallow depth of field you might notice the focus shift. Probably a bigger deal for video than stills but something to keep in mind. When shooting stills you can easily tell the camera which eye to jump to but



SIDE NOTE -

When shooting vertically (portrait orientation) the orientation of the screen layout changes (unless you disable it), which is a very welcome new feature.

What does not change (yet) is the orientation for eye/face detect when shooting vertically (portrait orientation).

Normally for face detect, if you have two or more people the camera will lock onto one of them (only one at a time, not multiple faces at once like a cell phone would). If you're shooting horizontally (landscape orientation or 'horizontical' as Jared 'Fro' Polin would say) the camera will give you the option to move the face detect box from one face to another by moving the joystick (or D-pad in the case of the EOS R) to the right or left to jump to the other face(s). The same jumping left or right thing applies to eyes and also works great in 'horizontical' orientation.

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Here's the fun little box with arrows indicating the AF system has detected more than one eye or face.

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This is how it's supposed to work.



Here's the problem I'd like to see fixed:

When shooting vertically the arrows do not change orientation and are now UP and DOWN in the viewfinder instead of LEFT and RIGHT.

This means you need to move the joystick (or D-pad on the EOS R) UP and DOWN to jump from faces that are LEFT and RIGHT in the viewfinder. Not only is it confusing but you need to guess which way the camera assigns the faces.
(OK, you don't really have to guess, I just tested it and learned that UP=RIGHT and DOWN=LEFT, but try remembering that when it matters!)

This happened on the EOS R and I figured it was a mild annoyance that Canon would soon fix in a firmware update. That didn't happen and I was pretty sure they'd get it figured out on the EOS R5/R6, but still not the case (yet).


Feel free to test this out yourself with your own EOS R, EOS RP, EOS R5, EOS R6.
You don't even need people, use your computer screen and just Google an image with two or more people (here's a great example image to use: https://www.nationalge​ographic.com …/photos/000/837​/83704.jpg (external link)) and try the face/eye detect while pointing your camera at your computer screen.

Try it 'horizontical' and then try it vertical. It's a little frustrating and should fixable via firmware update, not sure why this slipped past quality control (more than once) but I feel it needs to be addressed and it's one more item on my ever-growing CANON WISH LIST for features, and I'm going to include this in an upcoming YouTube video.

I mainly shoot people (photograph and video people) and have never used animal eye autofocus but if I found myself going back and forth between animal eye autofocus and human eye autofocus I'd probably create a custom function or button to toggle between the two.

Even though I always leave eye autofocus on there have been times it 'turned itself off' and I don't know why. Maybe it was something I did and I didn't realize it. I'm going to keep an eye on this phenomenon to see if I can figure out why that happened.

EOS R3 | EOS R5 | EOS R | 5D Mk4
RF 70-200 f/2.8L IS | RF 28-70 f/2L | RF 24-70 f/2.8L IS | RF 15-35 f/2.8L IS
RF 135mm f/1.8L IS |RF 85mm f/1.2L | RF 85mm f/2 macro IS | RF 50mm f/1.2L | RF 50mm f/1.8 | RF 35mm f/1.8 macro IS | RF 24mm f/1.8 macro IS | RF 16mm f/2.8
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Jared5
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Nov 21, 2020 23:48 |  #1873

Indpho wrote in post #19155039 (external link)
Currently have R6 , looking to add R5 sometime next year.
Just one question. Does the R5 need both cards inserted to operate or
will it work with just the SD card inserted ?

DUAL CARD SLOTS

The EOS R5 does not require you to use both card slots at the same time. Much like the 5D Mk4 and other Canon bodies with dual card slots you can set them up using the following options:

  • STANDARD - only records to one card (I'll explain the hell out of which card that is by the time you get to the end of this long post)
  • AUTO SWITCH CARD - works like an 'overflow' when the first card gets full it begins writing to the second card.
  • REC. SEPARATELY - allows you to record raw to one and JPEG(or HEIF) to another
  • REC. TO MULTIPLE - records the same thing to both cards (except for video which is annoying and another item on my ever-growing CANON WISH LIST for features - this is the mode I've been using since the 5D Mk3 and it has some interesting limitations which I will expand upon in great detail below...

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There are some interesting bugs, I mean 'features' with the REC. TO MULTIPLE option on Canon bodies and I really can't wait for these to get fixed.

Why does this matter to me?

When I'm shooting portraits and unable to tether to a laptop I'll show the clients their pictures on the back of the camera's screen. When they see one they like I'll use the RATE button and it shows up with one star in Lightroom so I can quickly find it when I'm ready to edit the image.
Now I gotta go off on a tangent about the lack of the RATE button on the EOS R:

Going off on a tangent for a minute - Portrait issues with the EOS R -
Sorry about the click-bait, this has nothing to do with the quality of the images from the EOS R but merely the experience when shooting client portraits based on the way I used the camera (coming from the 5D Mk4).

When I would shoot portraits with the EOS R I was bummed that it didn't have a RATE button so I programmed the arrows of the touch-bar that everyone hates to work as the RATE button. Yes it 'worked' but very sluggishly and no matter how positive I was that I pressed the touchbar to RATE the image it acted like it wasn't sure I really wanted to RATE the image. There was a delay, like asking your kid to take the garbage out and he doesn't seem to understand that you mean "DO IT NOW!" I had to be very deliberate on how I pressed the touchbar in order to be sure the RATE actually took, but even when I did so I had to wait for it to happen before scrolling to the next picture. ...which brings me to my next issue of shooting portraits on the EOS R, the touchscreen.

I remember when I got the 5D Mk4 and would show clients their images on the back of the camera's screen; I'd hold the camera by the lens, show them the screen and demonstrate how they could just 'slide up' (because I'm shooting in portrait orientation) to go back in time through the images. So many of them said "wow, that's so cool that your camera can do that" and I always thought the touchscreen feature of the 5D Mk4 was a gimmick. I quickly got used to the touchscreen of the 5D Mk4 and it was great for my own use and easy for the clients to swipe through and review images.
Not the same with the EOS R, not even close.
Yes the EOS R has a touchscreen and yes you can swipe through and move from image to image, but it was so unresponsive, laggy, and sluggish compared to the 5D Mk4 it was literally embarrassing. I'm not exaggerating, I was embarrassed when I would watch them swipe up/down to go through images and it was hanging up like it wasn't sure if they really wanted to swipe or not.

I'm so glad this has been improved on the EOS R5, the RATE button has returned (and if you never plan to use it you can program it for something else) and the screen is much more responsive when swiping through images.
I need to do a side-by-side comparison with the 5D Mk4 and EOS R5 to see if the touchscreen responsiveness of the EOS R5 is identical to the 5D Mk4 because my brain tells me the EOS R5 is barely slower than the 5D Mk4 but still a dramatic improvement over the sluggish responsiveness of the EOS R.

OK, sorry about that tangent, back to the dual card slots (which the EOS R does not have).


The RATE button not writing to both cards in REC. TO MULTIPLE has been an issue for me ever since the 5D Mk3 and another item on my ever-growing CANON WISH LIST for features has been to have the RATE button apply to both card slots because IT DOES NOT.


Here's what happens with dual card slots the way Canon bodies work right now:

I have my bodies set to shoot raw+JPEG(medium) to both cards for redundancy. You would expect both cards to be treated identically but they are not, in fact there is a priority card setting which is easily overlooked. I found this out the hard way when shooting video because Canon only shoots video to ONE CARD. When I was using the 5D Mk3 and shot video I went to transfer files from the CF card (my card of choice at the time) to my computer and there was no video on the card! I was freaking out and afraid I was going to lose this client because I couldn't just go back and reshoot everything. This was my crash-course in learning about the priority card setting, which was obviously never a thing with the single-card-slot 5D MK2. I found my video files on the SD card instead of the CF card and was able to complete the job. This got me digging into the user manual and I learned how to set the priority card setting so this wouldn't happen again. ...or would it?

It happened again, and I finally figured it out. I would set the CF card to be the priority card record video, get home and pop out the CF card and the video was on the CF card just as I expected. So proud of myself until I encountered this next problem. When I popped the CF card out of the 5D Mk3/4 and closed the memory card door on the camera the SD card was still in its slot as always. Well almost always, because the only time I'd remove the SD card was when I had to shoot bursts, because Canon put a really cheap SD writer in the 5D Mk3 (here's more info on that ugly story: https://petapixel.com …-if-you-care-about-speed/ (external link) ).

By removing the CF card and closing the memory card door with the SD card still in the slot the 5D Mk3 and 5D MK4 would assign the only remaining card (the SD card in this case) as the new priority card. This meant that every time I pulled the CF card out and closed the memory card door with an SD card in the slot my priority card would change to the SD card.

And just so mirrorless users didn't feel left out, the same bug (I mean 'feature') still exists on the EOS R5 with the CFexpress and SD cards. I'd imagine the same is true for the R6 because it's more of a "SLOT 1 vs SLOT 2" thing, not really anything to do with the form factor of the memory cards.


Here's how to get around that:

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If you remove your battery first and then pop the card out of the camera and you're good to go and it won't change the priority card on you. I usually do this when I get home, I'll pull the battery first because it needs to be charged anyway and then pull the card.
A more risky workaround is to pull the memory card out and leave the memory card door open. I don't recommend this at all because if your memory card door gets broken off or damaged you can't shoot with that body anymore. At least a broken/missing battery door has an easier workaround, but not the memory card door. Just don't take the risk.
The final option is to remember to check the priority card setting each time you shoot (if you've removed a card).


For video there's a new menu feature on the EOS R5 where you can set your priority card default and it will stay that way as long as the chosen card is in the body when you start recording video, so you can't mess it up. I've been using that for video and really wish the same was possible for stills because if you use the RATE button your ratings will only go to the priority card not to both cards. This is ridiculous to me because I can't think of a reason not to RATE redundantly to both cards if you're also recording images redundantly to both cards.

But, and that's not all...

Now the the EOS R5 and R6 finally have the ability (like the 1D series) to record a VOICE MEMO with the images I figured this would be another potential problem with the priority card and Canon did not disappoint!
If you record a VOICE MEMO be sure to remember it will only record on the priority card. If you transfer files to your computer and it's not from your priority card you will not have your VOICE MEMO. Thanks for keeping these limitations consistent I guess.

Sorry about the long post but this simple stuff bugs me because it would be easy to fix (like the problems that never got fixed with the 7D Mk2 but I'm not emotionally equipped to talk about that today  :p).

EOS R3 | EOS R5 | EOS R | 5D Mk4
RF 70-200 f/2.8L IS | RF 28-70 f/2L | RF 24-70 f/2.8L IS | RF 15-35 f/2.8L IS
RF 135mm f/1.8L IS |RF 85mm f/1.2L | RF 85mm f/2 macro IS | RF 50mm f/1.2L | RF 50mm f/1.8 | RF 35mm f/1.8 macro IS | RF 24mm f/1.8 macro IS | RF 16mm f/2.8
https://www.youtube.co​m/JaredRibic/videos (external link)

  
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Nov 22, 2020 01:20 |  #1874

CFE card reviews https://camnostic.com/​cfexpress-cards-comparison/ (external link)

also added by the testing individual user name tiggy on FM: "The Transcend 512 card that just came out is pretty great, especially for the price. Testing is showing that it is a sprinter. It can take as many shots before buffer as any of the other cards. It is slower in clearing the cache afterward, but that's after 10.5 seconds of straight shooting at 12 fps, so most of us won't suffer that problem. It costs much less. The Transcend 512 is $0.64/GB versus the Prograde 650 at $1.04/GB versus the Sony 512 at $1.17/GB. To get that Transcend pricing in the US, you need to buy from MemoryC."

https://www.memoryc.co​m …ead-1300mb-sec-write.html (external link)

"Also updated since last discussed here: Lexar card failed and we discovered returning them is difficult due to Treasury Dept sanctions, according to Lexar. They claim this makes it impossible for them to provide replacement. I suspect this doesn't affect Canadians."




  
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Nov 22, 2020 08:30 |  #1875

goalerjones wrote in post #19155537 (external link)
CFE card reviews https://camnostic.com/​cfexpress-cards-comparison/ (external link)

also added by the testing individual user name tiggy on FM: "The Transcend 512 card that just came out is pretty great, especially for the price. Testing is showing that it is a sprinter. It can take as many shots before buffer as any of the other cards. It is slower in clearing the cache afterward, but that's after 10.5 seconds of straight shooting at 12 fps, so most of us won't suffer that problem. It costs much less. The Transcend 512 is $0.64/GB versus the Prograde 650 at $1.04/GB versus the Sony 512 at $1.17/GB. To get that Transcend pricing in the US, you need to buy from MemoryC."

https://www.memoryc.co​m …ead-1300mb-sec-write.html (external link)

"Also updated since last discussed here: Lexar card failed and we discovered returning them is difficult due to Treasury Dept sanctions, according to Lexar. They claim this makes it impossible for them to provide replacement. I suspect this doesn't affect Canadians."

I've been using Transcend cards for years...no problem. May not be the fastest, but no problems with reliability. Definitely an underrated manufacturer.


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