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Thread started 09 Jul 2020 (Thursday) 08:06
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Canon EOS R5 Unite and Discuss!

 
goalerjones
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Dec 06, 2020 11:46 as a reply to  @ post 19162383 |  #2011

I ordered from CPW Canon Direct item...said it was in stock when I clicked purchase, called yesterday and it's on backorder. I never canceled the CPW deal because I was not expecting the Canon deal to still be active. Then I contacted them and found out the sale terms wouldn't be so wild west in their nature. Plus I get $100 off the camera base price, and no sales tax. So the net savings is over $400




  
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Dec 06, 2020 14:44 |  #2012

CPW = buy with confidence. I too have had nothing but positive experiences.


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Dec 06, 2020 14:56 |  #2013

LJ3Jim wrote in post #19162522 (external link)
My local store (Kenmore Camera) is showing the R5 in stock again as well as the regular R-EF Adapter.
https://kenmorecamera.​com …/169657/canon-eos-r5-body (external link)
https://kenmorecamera.​com …/canon-mount-adapter-ef-r (external link)


Only problem I have with Kenmore camera is they are my local store, so they have to take the Governor’s cut. ;-)a


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Canon EOS R5, R6, R7, and a bunch of glass...

  
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CyberDyneSystems
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Dec 06, 2020 17:31 |  #2014

Jared5 wrote in post #19162338 (external link)
...which brings me to my next point.

-


Canon should allow us to save/load our custom configurations on these highly customizable bodies. This is another thing on my ever-growing CANON WISH LIST for features. It exists on the Canon 1D series but we really need this enabled for the EOS R series.

Imagine borrowing an EOS R/RP/R5/R6 body from a friend and you can't just pick it up and start shooting because your friend has everything configured completely differently.

Do you have the time to clone your settings from your body to your friend's body? It's not as easy as it seems, I've done this with two EOS R bodies side by side and again with two EOS R5 bodies and unless you've got a good 30 minutes of uninterrupted time you're likely to miss something that you'll only find out later when you really need to use it.

Sure, you could do a factory reset on your friend's camera and at least have a common vanilla starting point, but what happens when your friend gets the camera back without their completely different configuration?

ID MkIII had this, and we even had thread here where we were uploading our customized settings files. The file type was .csd No mention of this anywhere on the internet, it was a stealth/ghost feature that so few used. These files made it so easy to share, save and transfer from one body to another. (imagine a fleet of 1D3 for a newspaper etc.)

I had several completely different .csd files for the MkIII that I relied upon for my various shooting shooting. A B.I.F. one of course, but I also at that time spent a ot of time shooting events in my dark theatre. So one .csd would be loaded and that would switch the camera to silent shutter, and even dim the 1D's LCD screens down to a preset level! (and a host of other settings custom for dark theatre work) Thsi was all done in the body with the memory card, no need to tether.


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CyberDyneSystems
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Post edited over 2 years ago by CyberDyneSystems. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 06, 2020 17:47 |  #2015

So I just had my first real play with the R5 down on the beach, doggie pics and some gulls in flight.
I am completely impressed with tracking of birds in flight and keeping up with automated tracking, eye focus etc. Amazing. I feel like decades of honing my skills to capture BIF shots with lesser AF systems is now moot.

Jury's still out, but I am pretty sure the 1DXIII is now irrelevant.

I was shooting 100-400mm II with 1.4x t-con. that alone is amazing and for decades I've kept zooms and t-cons separate. This combo just works perfectly. Now that I am so confident in this bodies ability to work with the 1.4x seamlessly, I also am no longer jonesing for the RF 100-500mm. I feel like I already have it plus 60mm :)

I had some questions; :)

- How do you program the button push on the multicontroller?
Am I missing something? I cant seem to find where I would program the "button push" function of the multicontroller. I did find how to set it to allow AF point selection. But I'd like the "press" button to switch it back to Center AF. Now I need to move my thumb down to the "SET" button to get the AF point centered again.

- Is there a way to set frame rate below max/20fps when in electronic shutter mode?
Part B, is there a setting to let you know when/how many image are being taken? lol. I may have shot 916 images 45 minutes when I really meant to take about 60...

- Is there a way to set the RF dial on my EF-RF adapter to adjust ISO AND initiate AUTO-ISO?
Let me clarify. On my EOS-R I have it set so that turning the dial increases or decreases ISO. When I turn the dial all the way down, it goes down to ISO 100, then to AUTO -ISO. with the RF dial set to adjust ISO on the R5, this is not happening. I can adjust ISO of course, but when it gets to ISO 100 and stops there. Is this not possible to set up that way on the R5, or have I just forgotten how I did it on the EOS-R? (likely)


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Post edited over 2 years ago by Methodical. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 06, 2020 20:41 |  #2016

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19162777 (external link)
So I just had my first real play with the R5 down on the beach, doggie pics and some gulls in flight.
I am completely impressed with tracking of birds in flight and keeping up with automated tracking, eye focus etc. Amazing. I feel like decades of honing my skills to capture BIF shots with lesser AF systems is now moot.

Jury's still out, but I am pretty sure the 1DXIII is now irrelevant.

I was shooting 100-400mm II with 1.4x t-con. that alone is amazing and for decades I've kept zooms and t-cons separate. This combo just works perfectly. Now that I am so confident in this bodies ability to work with the 1.4x seamlessly, I also am no longer jonesing for the RF 100-500mm. I feel like I already have it plus 60mm :)

I had some questions; :)

- How do you program the button push on the multicontroller?
Am I missing something? I cant seem to find where I would program the "button push" function of the multicontroller. I did find how to set it to allow AF point selection. But I'd like the "press" button to switch it back to Center AF. Now I need to move my thumb down to the "SET" button to get the AF point centered again.

- Is there a way to set frame rate below max/20fps when in electronic shutter mode?
Part B, is there a setting to let you know when/how many image are being taken? lol. I may have shot 916 images 45 minutes when I really meant to take about 60...

- Is there a way to set the RF dial on my EF-RF adapter to adjust ISO AND initiate AUTO-ISO?
Let me clarify. On my EOS-R I have it set so that turning the dial increases or decreases ISO. When I turn the dial all the way down, it goes down to ISO 100, then to AUTO -ISO. with the RF dial set to adjust ISO on the R5, this is not happening. I can adjust ISO of course, but when it gets to ISO 100 and stops there. Is this not possible to set up that way on the R5, or have I just forgotten how I did it on the EOS-R? (likely)


Mulitcontroller. Go to the custom functions (customize buttons) and scroll to the last option and you can enable the multicontroller and you will be able to press the button and return to the center AF point.

ES mode. No, you can't alter the 20fps

Number or shots taken. I am not sure about this one.

EF adapter ring. See Canon video below and start at around 2 minute mark. Whatever mode you select, just be sure to select the one with the down arrow that way you can't accidentally make changes via the control ring.

I had the Quick Control dial set to ISO and was able to get Auto ISO. I had that same issue and it seems I was able to get auto ISO, but I just don't recall how I did it.


https://www.youtube.co​m …5gfgrKrWg1&inde​x=8&t=130s (external link)


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Post edited over 2 years ago by LJ3Jim.
     
Dec 06, 2020 21:19 |  #2017

Auto ISO -- You can only get to Auto when the camera is in what I'll call the "passive" state. The opposite of that is the "active" state. Active state on a default-setting camera is entered by a half-press on the shutter button. If you had set ISO 500 before entering active state, then you can change ISO but you can't get to Auto. Once you release the shutter button, the camera will go back to passive state in maybe 10 seconds or so. Once you're back in passive state, you can set ISO to Auto.


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Dec 06, 2020 21:33 |  #2018

LJ3Jim wrote in post #19162865 (external link)
Auto ISO -- You can only get to Auto when the camera is in what I'll call the "passive" state. The opposite of that is the "active" state. Active state on a default-setting camera is entered by a half-press on the shutter button. If you had set ISO 500 before entering active state, then you can change ISO but you can't get to Auto. Once you release the shutter button, it will go back to passive state in maybe 10 seconds or so. Once you're back in passive state, you can set ISO to Auto.

There's a setting in the menu that let's you reduce that active state. I'll find it later when I'm with my camera.


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CyberDyneSystems
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Dec 06, 2020 21:53 |  #2019

Methodical wrote in post #19162853 (external link)
Mulitcontroller. Go to the custom functions (customize buttons) and scroll to the last option and you can enable the multicontroller and you will be able to press the button and return to the center AF point.

..

I had that set up, but for some reason I was convinced it was not going to center with the button push. It is now, so I must have been mistaken. Not sure why.


LJ3Jim wrote in post #19162865 (external link)
Auto ISO -- You can only get to Auto when the camera is in what I'll call the "passive" state. The opposite of that is the "active" state. Active state on a default-setting camera is entered by a half-press on the shutter button. If you had set ISO 500 before entering active state, then you can change ISO but you can't get to Auto. Once you release the shutter button, it will go back to passive state in maybe 10 seconds or so. Once you're back in passive state, you can set ISO to Auto.

This explains a lot, as I was sure I HAD it working on the R5, and I know it's been working that way on the EOS R. Now I understand why it's been hit or miss.

Thank you guys!


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Dec 06, 2020 23:54 |  #2020

You can set up the Multi- function button to have ISO to be first and can enable Auto ISO easy that way as well.
Don




  
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mccamli
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Dec 07, 2020 00:03 |  #2021

mccamli wrote in post #19162867 (external link)
There's a setting in the menu that let's you reduce that active state. I'll find it later when I'm with my camera.


CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19162874 (external link)
This explains a lot, as I was sure I HAD it working on the R5, and I know it's been working that way on the EOS R. Now I understand why it's been hit or miss.

Thank you guys!

If the camera is metering it won't drop down past 100 ISO into Auto ISO.

In the SHOOT7 menu you can reduce the metering timer to 4 seconds which reduces the time it takes for the camera to drop into that inactive state.

It's the same on the R and it drove me nuts until I discovered what was going on.


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Dec 07, 2020 07:30 |  #2022

Has anyone gotten this unit to go below iso 100? Clearly I’m missing something somewhere.....




  
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Post edited over 2 years ago by Methodical. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 07, 2020 07:45 |  #2023

I'm not sure of the inner workings, but the passive vs active makes sense I guess. I have Auto ISO set for all my C1-C3 settings and it changes as I make changes or as the light changes. Because I have Auto ISO set in C1-C3 and don't allow changes to stick, it always reverts back to Auto ISO. I still have the option to change ISO setting with the quick control dial. CyberDyne, if you set Auto ISO as one of the custom function and don't allow changes to stick, then you will always have Auto ISO set because it will revert back to the custom settings. Then, program another button to be able change ISO on the fly. That works for me.


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Dec 07, 2020 08:51 |  #2024

mccamli wrote in post #19162941 (external link)
If the camera is metering it won't drop down past 100 ISO into Auto ISO.

In the SHOOT7 menu you can reduce the metering timer to 4 seconds which reduces the time it takes for the camera to drop into that inactive state.

It's the same on the R and it drove me nuts until I discovered what was going on.

Yea, I already had mine reduced to 4 seconds as a way to save battery life so good that is another result of setting it that way.
Don




  
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Post edited over 2 years ago by CyberDyneSystems.
     
Dec 07, 2020 10:12 |  #2025

venghous1 wrote in post #19163073 (external link)
Has anyone gotten this unit to go below iso 100? Clearly I’m missing something somewhere.....

Isn't the lowest setting is 100?
I don't recall any ISO expansion to 50.. but I'm new :)


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