Canon EOS R5 Unite and Discuss!

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19164957
Likewise, i am shooting images on my monitor! lol. At least it gives me test subjects.

The real test will come later. I was so impressed with how it worked last outing, so if this messes with that in any way I will go back.


............... if I can remember how?

One way or another, we'll get this thing nailed.

goalerjones wrote in post #19164852
Man, there's so many options for the button mapping. I will hafta think about my current needs and map my own. I get the camera prolly this weekend, but I've been taking notes for a few weeks now on setups and rationales.

Don't be afraid to change it again as you learn more about the camera. The closer you get it configured to how your head really functions, the easier it is for your head to accept each change.

I got some test shots with the R5 and the RF 800 todayl See this thread

https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=19164984

No need to worry about EVF lag.

https://youtu.be/0cQHL​TbIso0

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19164860
Right, I use joystick, so it was redundant and available. (This thing is more complex than a High School principle.)

Hilarious

SYS wrote in post #19164868
At fredmiranda site, this member named "arbitrage" was able to figure it out. This is his instruction:

AF Menu 1:
Select Face/Tracking as your AF mode
Select Eye Detection to ON

AF Menu 5:
1st menu item: Set to AUTO

Customize Buttons Menu:
Shutter button: AF/Metering Start
AF-ON button: AF/Metering Start, then hit INFO and that brings you into sub-menu called Detail Set. Set your AF mode to Zone. You can leave the other options alone and they will just mimic your main settings
AE-L(*) button: AF/Metering Start, then the same process and this time select Spot AF

I followed this set up, and it's working great. In the situation where two or more birds are close together, I now simply nudge the joystick to move the white square with arrows to the eye of the bird I want rather than the camera searching for an eye randomly. Give it a try.

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19164929
Thanks, I actually saw this a few days back on FM. Here are my problems.
On my R5, this all seems ok at first (not sure why it's "ZONE" and not eye,. and I know Arbitridge uses Zone at times, I never do,. seems like this would be setting up AF ON for zone)

BUT the big problems are twofold;
- When I get to the * button, there is no info button available to get to a detail set. So if I do things this way, I can't set up the * button to be single AF point.
- This doesn't work. There's still something the way I am set up that is preventing me from being able to move any white box, there is no white box, just the big pile of blue boxes. Even when shutter button is used to activate AF (which is the only one that can be used with the joystick, because how can you AF ON and move the joystick at the same time?)

SYS wrote in post #19164955
That's funny. I also had a bit of issue with the INFO button not showing up at first, then somehow it showed up. I, too, wish I could tell you how I got that INFO button to show up again.

Although I now have pretty much the set up all configured to my personal preferences, one issue is that while the pre-focus white box is nice to have up and running immediately to "tell" you where the focus is (eye of the bird or the butt, typically), when you have it where you want it, i.e., the bird's eye, and press the AF-ON button (programmed to Eye-AF tracking) to lock in on the focus in that very eye, the Eye-AF too often turns into multiple green boxes rather than the white box in the eye turning into one green box in the same eye. In other words, the pre-white box's focal point doesn't always correlate to the Eye-AF point as it should.

Since this new set up (pre-white box showing up), I haven't had a chance to test it in real birding situation and my observation is actually based on a series of tests on multiple canvas printings of my bird shots on the wall. If you happen to be able to test this in a real birding situation, I'd appreciate knowing whether you encounter the same issue or not.

I think the Auto setting for Eye Detect is best for really static objects, like portraiture work, where you want to switch from one eye to another. It can work for really static birds, but we know they move a lot. I'd rather tell the system where to start with Eye Detect and if necessary use single AF point to change to another subject. Test it out though to see if you like it. It's ok, but I didn't want the system to make too many choices on it's own.

Here's a video where this guy goes through and explains each AF setting in pretty good detail with sample testing. He goes into detail about the "Auto" setting for eye detect. Check it out.

https://www.youtube.co​m …Ag.9F3lmdp0WwM9​H-GQbPVZdB

goalerjones wrote in post #19164852
Man, there's so many options for the button mapping. I will hafta think about my current needs and map my own. I get the camera prolly this weekend, but I've been taking notes for a few weeks now on setups and rationales.

Don't worry, you will change your settings 2-3 times, if not more, before you get it the way you want it.

Update: Just remember to go into the sub menus when setting up BB AF.

edmidlifecrisis wrote in post #19164988
I got some test shots with the R5 and the RF 800 todayl See this thread

https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=19164984

I think it will be one of those sleeper lenses that people dismiss because of the aperture. For those areas with really good light, like Florida, Texas, Africa etc., it should do really well. The long focal length will help make the background more pleasing. Folks dismiss it, like they do f8, but sometimes don't realize they actually use those apertures, similar to like some think 100-500 f7.1 is too slow...people use f7.1 and f8 so often and sometimes forget that they do. I know I stop down to f8 alot.

Jared5 wrote in post #19165064
No need to worry about EVF lag.

https://youtu.be/0cQHL​TbIso0

Hosted photo: posted by Jared5 in
./showthread.php?p=191​65064&i=i62031916
forum: Canon Digital Cameras

Yep. I agree. I just don't see big deal and don't experience what folks keep saying is happening. Perhaps it's just me.

I think things like this get parroted a lot on forums. You get someone mentioning it as a concern and then someone who doesn't own the equipment mention they read or heard about the issue and then someone asking about the lag problem and have concerns about buying and that goes on and on and on and on and on...you've seen it.

I remember having a hard time wrapping my head around a real time EVF. Now I'm watching BIF guys setting up their cameras, and when the EVF subject comes up they're basically saying, "Don't worry about it".

Methodical wrote in post #19165096
I think the Auto setting for Eye Detect is best for really static objects, like portraiture work, where you want to switch from one eye to another. It can work for really static birds, but we know they move a lot. I'd rather tell the system where to start with Eye Detect and if necessary use single AF point to change to another subject. Test it out though to see if you like it. It's ok, but I didn't want the system to make too many choices on it's own.

Here's a video where this guy goes through and explains each AF setting in pretty good detail with sample testing. He goes into detail about the "Auto" setting for eye detect. Check it out.

https://www.youtube.co​m …Ag.9F3lmdp0WwM9​H-GQbPVZdB

Yes, the Auto setting for Eye Detect is great for portraiture, and my C1 mode is set for such. What I'm finding is that the only way that I can have the pre-focus white square to appear on the viewfinder in Servo AF mode is when the Auto is chosen. In One Shot mode, no problem, and that's why the guy in the video has the white square come up although he did not choose the Auto setting. When I choose, as in my prior set up, Initial AF pt set for Eye Detect, then I lose that pre-focus white square because of the Servo AF setting elsewhere in the menu.

A problem with my prior set up (Initial AF pt for Eye Detect) was that, although you can tell the system where to start, once it starts where you ask the system to, it will detect an eye at random and you lose the control and the system takes over. Here's the situation I found myself in often with my prior set up: I see a group of birds all in close proximity to one another. I initiate the AF to be in one particular bird' eye and all's well initially. Then, since they move constantly (or if you move your camera), the system randomly picks another bird's eye next to the initial bird. I then press the * button (set to spot focus) to get back to the initial bird of my choice. It goes on like this, back and forth, back and forth.

With the Auto setting (and from here, since I'm bound at home and unable to go out for actual birding, is based on my tests using my HDTV screen where two or more people are next to one another) I have the pre-focus white square come up immediately as soon as I point my lens in that direction and finds an eye to focus on. Right away. The pre-focus white square goes to the eye that I'm pointing my lens to. If I want another person's eye, I simply point the lens in that person's direction, and the white square finds that person's eye without the apparent randomness. Of course, the subjects are larger than the small birds, but then I believe I can duplicate this in real birding situations since the tiny birds become larger subjects by lens zooming.

The point is that the Auto setting for Eye Detect is so good that I'm willing to give this method a try in real birding situations. If my initial findings are confirmed, then I'll stick to this for good. The guy in the video link is wrong about the Auto setting, namely, that "it does whatever." Without the Eye Detect enabled, yes, he should be correct, but not Auto setting in conjunction with the Eye Detect enabled. In conjunction, it becomes Auto Eye Detect and it detects the eye that your lens is pointing to and it does it immediately and with the added benefit of being able to pick the eye of my choice with the white arrow by a simple nudge of the joystick.

The difference between my prior set up (Initial AF pt for Eye Detect) and now with the Auto appears to be that I can have greater control of the eye among many eyes and at very fast speed. Auto in this case doesn't seem to be synonymous with randomness. Quite to the contrary, I get to be in control more than the camera system.

But, again, these findings aren't from real birding situations, so these need to be confirmed. I'll report on this later.

SYS wrote in post #19165213
Yes, the Auto setting for Eye Detect is great for portraiture, and my C1 mode is set for such. What I'm finding is that the only way that I can have the pre-focus white square to appear on the viewfinder in Servo AF mode is when the Auto is chosen. In One Shot mode, no problem, and that's why the guy in the video has the white square come up although he did not choose the Auto setting. When I choose, as in my prior set up, Initial AF pt set for Eye Detect, then I lose that pre-focus white square because of the Servo AF setting elsewhere in the menu.

A problem with my prior set up (Initial AF pt for Eye Detect) was that, although you can tell the system where to start, once it starts where you ask the system to, it will detect an eye at random and you lose the control and the system takes over. Here's the situation I found myself in often with my prior set up: I see a group of birds all in close proximity to one another. I initiate the AF to be in one particular bird' eye and all's well initially. Then, since they move constantly (or if you move your camera), the system randomly picks another bird's eye next to the initial bird. I then press the * button (set to spot focus) to get back to the initial bird of my choice. It goes on like this, back and forth, back and forth.

With the Auto setting (and from here, since I'm bound at home and unable to go out for actual birding, is based on my tests using my HDTV screen where two or more people are next to one another) I get the pre-focus white square comes up immediately as soon as I point my lens in that direction and finds an eye to focus on. Right away. The pre-focus white square goes to the eye that I'm pointing my lens to. If I want another person's eye, I simply point the lens in that person's direction, and the white square finds that person's eye without the apparent randomness. Of course, the subjects are larger than the small birds, but then I believe I can duplicate this in real birding situations since the tiny birds become larger subjects by lens zooming.

The point is that the Auto setting for Eye Detect is so good that I'm willing to give this method a try in real birding situations. If my initial findings are confirmed, then I'll stick to this for good. The guy in the video link is wrong about the Auto setting, namely, that "it does whatever." Without the Eye Detect enabled, yes, he should be correct, but not Auto setting in conjunction with the Eye Detect enabled. In conjunction, it becomes Auto Eye Detect and it detects the eye that your lens is pointing to and it does it immediately and with the added benefit of being able to pick the eye of my choice with the white arrow by a simple nudge of the joystick.

The difference between my prior set up (Initial AF pt for Eye Detect) and now with the Auto appears to be that I can have greater control of the eye among many eyes and at very fast speed. Auto in this case doesn't seem to be synonymous with randomness. Quite to the contrary, I get to be in control more than the camera system.

But, again, these findings aren't from real birding situations, so these need to be confirmed. I'll report on this later.

That's good info, SYS. Like you I had my R6 set to Initial AF pt for Eye Detect and have been looking for ways to get more control in exactly the situation you describe: groups of birds and how to get the focus on the bird of my choice. Switching to Spot-AF works of course but as you describe, usually not for long. This may be the solution though. So I just changed the setting to AUTO. I can't try it out on birds as it's dark here now. But I too can confirm that it works miraculously well on pics indeed! Can't wait to try it out in the real world.

Thanks for this.

Levina de Ruijter wrote in post #19165226
That's good info, SYS. Like you I had my R6 set to Initial AF pt for Eye Detect and have been looking for ways to get more control in exactly the situation you describe: groups of birds and how to get the focus on the bird of my choice. Switching to Spot-AF works of course but as you describe, usually not for long. This may be the solution though. So I just changed the setting to AUTO. I can't try it out on birds as it's dark here now. But I too can confirm that it works miraculously well on pics indeed! Can't wait to try it out in the real world.

Thanks for this.

I'd like to hear back from you with your own findings in real birding situations. It's freezing cold and snowing outside, so I continue to shoot my TV.

SYS wrote in post #19165229
I'd like to hear back from you with your own findings in real birding situations. It's freezing cold and snowing outside, so I continue to shoot my TV.

LOL

I'm stuck at home too because of Covid-19. But I can shoot birds from my home. There are tons of gulls residing here and if there's a bit of light tomorrow I will look for groups doing what gulls do best: chasing the one with the food!

One additional note:

The problem I was describing above with my prior setting of Initial AF pt to Eye Detect was with the "Switching tracked subject" set to 0 (I think the default was set at 1). It helped but still the eye tracking became random. I don't know whether the same setting is more effective in Auto setting. Regardless, be sure to set this to 0.