Canon EOS R5 Unite and Discuss!

Methodical wrote in post #19165463
SYS, when you point the camera to another subject, do you release the shutter so the camera can refocus on the new subject?

Just an FYI. I've activated the touch screen (right side) and can switch subjects by just touching it on the screen with my thumb. I find this method much faster for me right now. I don't need to redirect the camera to a different subject; just touch on it and it focuses and tracks that subject.

What I find amazing is that, when I point my camera to one subject, the pre-focus white square box immediately detects an eye of that subject. When I then turn the camera to the subject next to it, the white box detects an eye on the new subject without staying on the original, first eye. All this without my finger on any of the camera buttons. However, once the white pre-focus box goes to the eye that I want to focus and press the AF-ON to focus lock on that eye, it often breaks up into multiple tiny green boxes, searching for the eye. I don't know why the Eye Detect can land the pre-focus white square box in that eye so easily and so fast, but it often won't simply turn that white box in the eye to the single green box, indicating that I focus locked it. I'm a bit frustrated by this. This isn't due to the Auto setting since the same things happens with the Initial AF pt set for Eye Detect. Why is there a discrepancy, i.e., pre-focus white box finds the eye immediately but it won't turn into the green box but rather into multiple green boxes. I don't know whether Jake ran into the same frustrating situation while out testing the new set up in a real birding situation or this is just due to my home confined testing.

Methodical wrote in post #19165097
Don't worry, you will change your settings 2-3 times, if not more, before you get it the way you want it.

I have changed my settings so many times that I forget which button I set to what. Or end up with 3 buttons set to one function.

SYS wrote in post #19165472
... I don't know whether Jake ran into the same frustrating situation while out testing the new set up in a real birding situation or this is just due to my home confined testing.

It certainly happens some times, but it did not yet get to a point where it had me concerned. Even with my old set up, there were time that one box became multiple boxes, eye focus was lost and instead I got maybe body or wing etc. but this has yet to prove to be a problem in use. I actually find it refreshing how well it can transition form having lost eye focus lock, to just continuing to track the correct subject with the big stack of little blue boxes. Like a nice fail safe.

Looking at compatibilities for 3rd party lenses it seems my Tamron 24-70 G2 should work, and I think my 15-30 G1 should work also. Has anyone been using these lenses on their R5?

goalerjones wrote in post #19165511
Looking at compatibilities for 3rd party lenses it seems my Tamron 24-70 G2 should work, and I think my 15-30 G1 should work also. Has anyone been using these lenses on their R5?

- SP 24-70mm f/2.8 VC G2 USD - Seems lightning fast AF, faster than 5D4, and no issues.

- SP 70-200mm f/2.8 VC G2 USD - ditto

- Tamron 35-150 f/2.8-f/4 di VC OSD this odd Tamron lens uses the much slower OSD focus motor vs the above equipped with Tamron's USD/USm style motor. Still, it focuses confidently, quietly, and faster than I'd expect. It feels just like it does on my 1DXIII, which has been my preferred set up for shooting live events with one lens.

- Sigma 300-800mm. Fantastic. I even shot it at 3200mm with two stacked 2X t-cons at night and got full autofocus (moons shot)

- Sigma 150-600mm. Haven't really given it a work out, but certainly is working fine.

That's about all the 3rd party lenses I own now,. the last one being the Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 OS. I'll have to break that one out of mothballs soon.

Thanks, as for the EF-S lenses, I'm assuming they should be used only for crop mode?

goalerjones wrote in post #19165112
I remember having a hard time wrapping my head around a real time EVF. Now I'm watching BIF guys setting up their cameras, and when the EVF subject comes up they're basically saying, "Don't worry about it".

There has to be lag with an EVF; you can't show the result of an exposure that is still occurring; rows of pixels need to be read out and converted. The thing is that it is so small now with the R5 and the R6 that most of the practical issues with lag are non-problematic. With older systems, when you look through the EVF and sweep the camera left and right with a long lens, the change in direction clearly does not occur at about the time that the lens changed direction. With such a view, it is easy for your subject to wind up outside the frame, with no clue where it moved to, with a very narrow angle of view.

I ordered my R5 expecting slightly more subjective lag than what it actually had; I thought that it would take some "getting used to", but it is so small that I forgot about lag, even though I was using crop mode much of the time, giving a narrower angle of view than what I had with the 90D with 1.4x less teleconversion. My biggest problem with getting the subject in the frame was that my muscle memory from 90D ergonomics and shape of assembled rig had me pointing the lens below and to the left of the subject with 800mm and APS-C crop mode, where the subject would not initially be in the frame at all, even if it was static, but that has nothing to do with lag. With shorter focal lengths (or FF), the subject was visible most of the time at first peek in the upper frame, easily recomposed.

goalerjones wrote in post #19165528
Thanks, as for the EF-S lenses, I'm assuming they should be used only for crop mode?

The current firmware does not allow you a choice. If the R5 knows that the lens is an EF-s lens, it automatically crops. Many third-party lenses use the entire sensor, but not all, as at least one person has reported that one recent APS-C-intended Sigma lens invokes crop mode.

John Sheehy wrote in post #18817022
A true 5ms delay, from the center of exposure time to the center of display time, refreshed 60 or 120 times per second would be very good. Someone or some manufacturer claiming "5ms delay", however, does not mean that it is actually happening like that.

I'd love to see my skepticism proved wrong in existing cameras or the near future, but my experience is that there is so much BS out there, and things should actually be tested to be true instead of blindly accepted in a "we've finally arrived" exuberance based on a claimed measurement of we-don't-know-what, and field verification too undemanding to actually see if the claim is true. Manufacturers are not honest, unbiased scientists; they are salespeople and fanboys love to announce that "we are there".

Here you go... your skepticism is proved wrong

John Sheehy wrote in post #19165578
There has to be lag with an EVF; you can't show the result of an exposure that is still occurring; rows of pixels need to be read out and converted. The thing is that it is so small now with the R5 and the R6 that most of the practical issues with lag are non-problematic. With older systems, when you look through the EVF and sweep the camera left and right with a long lens, the change in direction clearly does not occur at about the time that the lens changed direction. With such a view, it is easy for your subject to wind up outside the frame, with no clue where it moved to, with a very narrow angle of view.

I ordered my R5 expecting slightly more subjective lag than what it actually had; I thought that it would take some "getting used to", but it is so small that I forgot about lag, even though I was using crop mode much of the time, giving a narrower angle of view than what I had with the 90D with 1.4x less teleconversion. My biggest problem with getting the subject in the frame was that my muscle memory from 90D ergonomics and shape of assembled rig had me pointing the lens below and to the left of the subject with 800mm and APS-C crop mode, where the subject would not initially be in the frame at all, even if it was static, but that has nothing to do with lag. With shorter focal lengths (or FF), the subject was visible most of the time at first peek in the upper frame, easily recomposed.

Got my R5 body finally today, the EF to R adapter is not available in India and no ETA when next batch will come.

So got a Viltrox EF to R adapter in grey market , seems working fine, anyone using this?

One doubt , might seem silly but is bothering me is the Filename starting as 058A8700.jpg. Figured from the menu the prefix 058A comes from as configured but shouldn't the last 4 digits should start 0001!?
Sorry if not making sense...

Edit update: researching on above, one post said if sn old sd card was used, the camera might start the Filename count from the last file in that SD card. While taking delivery, the salesman opened the box put his card from another camera to test and show , may be this could be the case....

Is there a way to find actual shutter count on the camera, appreciate any suggestions....thanks.

I'm wondering if anyone will come up with a hack for certain EF-S lenses that gets around the crop and yields the full field of view of the lens on RF-mount cameras.

I have an old Canon EF-S 10-22 mm and I recall someone had developed a modification that worked on EF-mount DSLRs to give the full field of view, with a slight limitation at the wide end.

That's what has me wondering about a hack for using the lens on RF-mount bodies.

The problem solved!

Although very happy that I was able to get the pre-focus white square to show up and detect an eye immediately when I point the camera to the subject, the tiny white square would not turn into the corresponding tiny blue square when I try to lock in on the focus by pressing the AF-ON button. Instead, as soon as I press the AF-ON button, the tiny white square breaks out into multiple tiny cluster of squares.

I was about to resign to the reality that that was the limitation of this camera. This morning as I woke up, however, something in my head told me that I should revisit the original programming that made the pre-focus white box to appear successfully. The key part of that instruction (which I got from a member in fredmiranda site) was to set the Initial Servo AF pt for Eye detection and tracking to Auto and program the AF-ON button as follows: AF/Metering Start, hit INFO Detail Set, then choose AF mode to Zone.

It then occurred to me that the Zone setting could be a suspect, so I changed the AF mode from Zone to Eye detection and tracking. Then, boom, it worked! So, now, this is how it works:

Raise the camera to the subject, the pre-focus white box finds the eye of the subject immediately and automatically, I press the AF-ON button and the tiny white box transforms into the corresponding tiny blue box, indicating that the focus is now locked in, I then shoot away with all sharply focused images as results. Having set the Case 2 and 3 Tracking Sensitivity to -2 and Switching tracked subjects to 0 (two tracking sensitivity settings that, as far as I have found so far to limit the tracking from randomly changing from one subject to another in close proximity), it's now effectively allowing me to choose the subject of my choice and not to randomness. Interestingly, changing the AF mode from the earlier Zone to Eye detection and tracking "allowed" the settings in the Case 2 and 3 and Switching tracked subjects to be much more effective in noticeable way.

Well, folks, I believe I have finally nailed the optimal set up for bird and wildlife photography.

And here's one (through a dirty kitchen window glass) image from this morning after a eureka moment:

SYS wrote in post #19165726
The problem solved!

Although very happy that I was able to get the pre-focus white square to show up and detect an eye immediately when I point the camera to the subject, the tiny white square would not turn into the corresponding tiny blue square when I try to lock in on the focus by pressing the AF-ON button. Instead, as soon as I press the AF-ON button, the tiny white square breaks out into multiple tiny cluster of squares.

I was about to resign to the reality that that was the limitation of this camera. This morning as I woke up, however, something in my head told me that I should revisit the original programming that made the pre-focus white box to appear successfully. The key part of that instruction (which I got from a member in fredmiranda site) was to set the Initial Servo AF pt for Eye detection and tracking to Auto and program the AF-ON button as follows: AF/Metering Start, hit INFO Detail Set, then choose AF mode to Zone.

It then occurred to me that the Zone setting could be a suspect, so I changed the AF mode from Zone to Eye detection and tracking. Then, boom, it worked! So, now, this is how it works:

Raise the camera to the subject, the pre-focus white box finds the eye of the subject immediately and automatically, I press the AF-ON button and the tiny white box transforms into the corresponding tiny blue box, indicating that the focus is now locked in, I then shoot away with all sharply focused images as results. Having set the Case 2 Tracking Sensitivity to -2 and Switching tracked subjects to 0 (two tracking sensitivity settings that, as far as I have found so far to limit the tracking from randomly changing from one subject to another in close proximity), it's now effectively allowing me to choose the subject of my choice and not to randomness. Interestingly, changing the AF mode from the earlier Zone to Eye detection and tracking "allowed" the settings in the Case 2 and Switching tracked subjects to be much more effective in noticeable way.

Well, folks, I believe I have finally nailed the optimal set up for bird and wildlife photography.

And here's one (through a dirty kitchen window glass) image from this morning after a eureka moment:

Hosted photo: posted by SYS in
./showthread.php?p=191​65726&i=i204960855
forum: Canon Digital Cameras

Bingo, yes that's it.
Sorry I thought when we were discussing this earlier that it was clear that Arbitridge's set up using Zone was specific to his use. I should have been more clear that I had ignored that part of the set up. Of course, logically, the moment you press AF ON it drops out of eye and into Zone. Who wants that?

Now, maybe this time I will actually delve into these case settings and sub-menus.....


(says the Canon shooter who once spent ages setting up his 1D2 and 1D3, but since then has never once touched or altered a case setting and has just used "case1" bone stock for everything,...)

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19165737
Bingo, yes that's it.
Sorry I thought when we were discussing this earlier that it was clear that Arbitridge's set up using Zone was specific to his use. I should have been more clear that I had ignored that part of the set up. Of course, logically, the moment you press AF ON it drops out of eye and into Zone. Who wants that?

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19165739
Now, maybe this time I will actually delve into these case settings and sub-menus.....


(says the Canon shooter who once spent ages setting up his 1D2 and 1D3, but since then has never once touched or altered a case setting and has just used "case1" bone stock for everything,...)

It's always more logical after you've figured it out.....

After you've set the Case 2 and 3 to -2 and Switching tracked subjects to 0, point the pre-focus white box from one pre-focused subject to another nearby. Before the set up, the white box would point to whichever subject the camera is pointing at.