Canon EOS R5 Unite and Discuss!

f8andBeThere wrote in post #19165717
I'm wondering if anyone will come up with a hack for certain EF-S lenses that gets around the crop and yields the full field of view of the lens on RF-mount cameras.

I have an old Canon EF-S 10-22 mm and I recall someone had developed a modification that worked on EF-mount DSLRs to give the full field of view, with a slight limitation at the wide end.

That's what has me wondering about a hack for using the lens on RF-mount bodies.

The problem is, older FF cameras didn't care that an EF-s lens was attached, so they didn't crop. The R bodies are looking for EF-s lenses, to crop them automatically.

So, unless there is a way to change how the lens identifies, any R body will crop the EF-s lens. The hack you are talking about is a mechanical one (I think), to make the FF mirror clear the rear of the zoom; not a change of identity or communication. You could disable communication to the lens, with no physical hacks to the zoom, but you can't stop down and must use manual focus, and manual focal length for IBIS.

SYS wrote in post #19165744
It's always more logical after you've figured it out.....

After you've set the Case 2 and 3 to -2 and Switching tracked subjects to 0, point the pre-focus white box from one pre-focused subject to another nearby. Before the set up, the white box would point to whichever subject the camera is pointing at.

You refer to setting Case 2 and "3" to -2. Which one are you using, Case 2 or 3?

digital paradise wrote in post #19165768
You refer to setting Case 2 and "3" to -2. Which one are you using, Case 2 or 3?

Forget it. I had a brain fart. They are both doing the same thing set at -2. It makes the AF stick to the subject like setting Switching Tracked Subjects to 0.

About the white pre-focus square. Are you guys talking about the initial AF point or is this a different set up? The initial AF point just remains in whatever spot you placed it in. I'm reading that it will auto detect an eye when you bring the camera up.

SYS wrote in post #19165726
The problem solved!

Although very happy that I was able to get the pre-focus white square to show up and detect an eye immediately when I point the camera to the subject, the tiny white square would not turn into the corresponding tiny blue square when I try to lock in on the focus by pressing the AF-ON button. Instead, as soon as I press the AF-ON button, the tiny white square breaks out into multiple tiny cluster of squares.

I was about to resign to the reality that that was the limitation of this camera. This morning as I woke up, however, something in my head told me that I should revisit the original programming that made the pre-focus white box to appear successfully. The key part of that instruction (which I got from a member in fredmiranda site) was to set the Initial Servo AF pt for Eye detection and tracking to Auto and program the AF-ON button as follows: AF/Metering Start, hit INFO Detail Set, then choose AF mode to Zone.

It then occurred to me that the Zone setting could be a suspect, so I changed the AF mode from Zone to Eye detection and tracking. Then, boom, it worked! So, now, this is how it works:

Raise the camera to the subject, the pre-focus white box finds the eye of the subject immediately and automatically, I press the AF-ON button and the tiny white box transforms into the corresponding tiny blue box, indicating that the focus is now locked in, I then shoot away with all sharply focused images as results. Having set the Case 2 and 3 Tracking Sensitivity to -2 and Switching tracked subjects to 0 (two tracking sensitivity settings that, as far as I have found so far to limit the tracking from randomly changing from one subject to another in close proximity), it's now effectively allowing me to choose the subject of my choice and not to randomness. Interestingly, changing the AF mode from the earlier Zone to Eye detection and tracking "allowed" the settings in the Case 2 and 3 and Switching tracked subjects to be much more effective in noticeable way.

Well, folks, I believe I have finally nailed the optimal set up for bird and wildlife photography.

And here's one (through a dirty kitchen window glass) image from this morning after a eureka moment:

Hosted photo: posted by SYS in
./showthread.php?p=191​65726&i=i204960855
forum: Canon Digital Cameras

Zone-AF is really not a good primary AF method. The search box is too large and you get all those little squares searching for something to focus on. Strange that the fellow at FM would have his R5 set up that way.

I've been shooting the way you have it set now for two months, with Eye-AF on AF-ON as my main AF method and Zone-AF as assist on the DOF Preview button (most helpful for birds a distance away!). I also have Spot-AF on the * button (works bloody brilliant for small songbirds in the thick of things). And I'm very happy with this set-up. What was missing was the white prefocus box. I had seen it in One Shot mode but thought it was a thing particular to that mode as I never saw it in Servo. But I've set Initial Servo AF pt to AUTO now, per your instructions so that is active too now, and it is nice! And should be really helpful, especially with multiple birds in the frame.

After shooting a lot of gulls in flight I find the only thing that is giving me trouble still is sudden unexpected action from birds close by, like a bird suddenly diving at great speed or a fight that suddenly breaks out with birds breaking away, accelerating at crazy speeds etc. I never had a problem with this with any of my 1D bodies (I've shot a lot of terns diving, whole sequences, from start to finish and I shoot swallows in flight) but this is the only thing that I find more problematic with the R6. It's as if the camera can't respond to the action as fast. Maybe it's still a bit of lag in the EVF, maybe it's sheer driving speed, I don't know. Could also be I need to fine tune my settings, like which case works best for which situation. After our conversation yesterday I looked at that section of the menu, changed some settings and next time I'm going to try Case 4 with Tracking Sensitivity set to -2 and Accel/Decel Tracking set to +2. I have set that on C2 now. If it works as intended it should be great for swallows!

digital paradise wrote in post #19165775
About the white pre-focus square. Are you guys talking about the initial AF point or is this a different set up? The initial AF point just remains in whatever spot you placed it in. I'm reading that it will auto detect an eye when you bring the camera up.

With my set up C2 is Face+tracking and initial auto point so I can select my start point. C3 is Face+tracking and Auto. I don't see a white prefocus square whether it is on eye detect or not. I have have to say I really hate this PDF manual. No index and the search field is useless.

Goodbye 6D MKII hello R5. Just picked up my long awaited R5 with a basic adapter. Been playing around with it and now need to learn a few more menus. Fortunately one of the guys at the store here I purchased it, uses one. he has offered to help set it up - shortcuts shooting styles et.

Having been left wanting with the 6d mkII, a bit slow and just did not warm up to it. I am really looking forward to all the features and the speed.

Levina de Ruijter wrote in post #19165778
Zone-AF is really not a good primary AF method. The search box is too large and you get all those little squares searching for something to focus on.

I believe the little squares that are shown is the camera saying that the area under the squares is in focus. At least that's the assumption I've been working under....

That said, I have been using the AUTO/Eye AF-ON approach for almost all my BIF.

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19165739
Now, maybe this time I will actually delve into these case settings and sub-menus.....


(says the Canon shooter who once spent ages setting up his 1D2 and 1D3, but since then has never once touched or altered a case setting and has just used "case1" bone stock for everything,...)

I have used all the Case numbers except 1 on my DSLR's. Mostly Case 2 wth TS set to 2 for single point and 6 for Zone AF. For now I just left the R5 on 1 and set the Switching Tracked Subjects to 0 when I got the R5. I believe Arbitrage left his on Case 1 as well.

downhillonwater wrote in post #19165791
I believe the little squares that are shown is the camera saying that the area under the squares is in focus. At least that's the assumption I've been working under....

That said, I have been using the AUTO/Eye AF-ON approach for almost all my BIF.

I set the Movie button to toggle back and forth between eye and no eye detect. If the bird is further away I don't use eye detect.

digital paradise wrote in post #19165775
About the white pre-focus square. Are you guys talking about the initial AF point or is this a different set up? The initial AF point just remains in whatever spot you placed it in. I'm reading that it will auto detect an eye when you bring the camera up.

It's an entirely different thing, otherwise you'd have seen the white square already. If you set up the Initial Servo AF pt for Eye (or Face) detect to Auto, you'll see the pre-AF white square with arrows to each side popping up immediately every time you raise the camera and point it to your subject. It detects an eye of your subject in "pre-" mode so you know in advance what exactly your focus point is. Once you have the white square where you want it, you then press your back button to focus lock it and shoot away.

What this pre-AF white square also does is you can pre-command which eye (left or right or even move to another subject's eye) to focus on. That's what those arrows to each side of the white box are for, and you move the white box by nudging the joystick. Nudging doesn't have to be in the direction you want it to move, either, when there are only two eyes. Just nudging itself will move the box, e.g., you want the white box to move to left, but you don't have to nudge the joystick to left. You can nudge it to right and it will still moves to left. However, when there are more than two eyes, i.e., say, two or more birds in close proximity to one another, then you control it precisely by nudging the joystick in the correct direction.

digital paradise wrote in post #19165775
About the white pre-focus square. Are you guys talking about the initial AF point or is this a different set up? The initial AF point just remains in whatever spot you placed it in. I'm reading that it will auto detect an eye when you bring the camera up.

No, we aren't talking about any AF that we selected. We are talking about the first eye detected,. totally done by the camera even when the AF has yet to be activated by a button press.

Levina de Ruijter wrote in post #19165778
Zone-AF is really not a good primary AF method. The search box is too large and you get all those little squares searching for something to focus on. Strange that the fellow at FM would have his R5 set up that way.

It never occurred to me that the setting of Zone AF was problematic, since "Zone" is relative, for example, I thought Zone at 150mm focal length is different than Zone at 600mm. So, if I zoomed in on a bird to pretty much filled the frame, detecting the eye should be fast and immediate regardless of Zone or other settings. That was my thinking. Obviously, it proved me wrong.

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19165828
No, we aren't talking about any AF that we selected. We are talking about the first eye detected,. totally done by the camera even when the AF has yet to be activated by a button press.

SYS wrote in post #19165818
It's an entirely different thing, otherwise you'd have seen the white square already. If you set up the Initial Servo AF pt for Eye (or Face) detect to Auto, you'll see the pre-AF white square with arrows to each side popping up immediately every time you raise the camera and point it to your subject. It detects an eye of your subject in "pre-" mode so you know in advance what exactly your focus point is. Once you have the white square where you want it, you then press your back button to focus lock it and shoot away.

What this pre-AF white square also does is you can pre-command which eye (left or right or even move to another subject's eye) to focus on. That's what those arrows to each side of the white box are for, and you move the white box by nudging the joystick. Nudging doesn't have to be in the direction you want it to move, either, when there are only two eyes. Just nudging itself will move the box, e.g., you want the white box to move to left, but you don't have to nudge the joystick to left. You can nudge it to right and it will still moves to left. However, when there are more than two eyes, i.e., say, two or more birds in close proximity to one another, then you control it precisely by nudging the joystick in the correct direction.

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19165828
No, we aren't talking about any AF that we selected. We are talking about the first eye detected,. totally done by the camera even when the AF has yet to be activated by a button press.

Thanks gang. It is there. I was trying it on my wife and the light was bad. I’m petty quick on BBF so maybe I didn’t notice last time was out shooting stills. The last while I’ve been shooting in Zone AF and Face+tracking using initial AF.

SYS wrote in post #19165834
It never occurred to me that the setting of Zone AF was problematic, since "Zone" is relative, for example, I thought Zone at 150mm focal length is different than Zone at 600mm. So, if I zoomed in on a bird to pretty much filled the frame, detecting the eye should be fast and immediate regardless of Zone or other settings. That was my thinking. Obviously, it proved me wrong.

On my 1D bodies I never used Zone-AF because it was always hit or miss. I think it just covers too much space and you never know where it's going to focus. Even with small birds like swallows I would get sharp wingtips and tails and soft heads. I didn't really think about it and just assumed it would be the same on the R6. Zone-AF does work very well as an assist though with birds in flight when they are still at a distance and Eye-AF has trouble finding them. That is when I use Zone-AF and it most always finds the bird and I track it and when it is close enough and I'm ready to shoot, I switch to Eye-AF. And that works very well.