Canon EOS R5 Unite and Discuss!

goalerjones wrote in post #19317186
Slow, as.in maybe 3-5 fps, which is nowhere near what I get using an RF lens.

12 max fps is achievable with the EF 300 f/2.8L IS II but not I, so 3-5 fps is normal and there's nothing you can do to change that unless you shoot in Elec. or with a different lens.

When using eyeAF, is there a way to customize a button to switch quickly between auto and initial AF point acquisition?

Auto works most of the time, but sometimes I’d like to choose a specific eye to start.

SereneSpeed wrote in post #19317205
When using eyeAF, is there a way to customize a button to switch quickly between auto and initial AF point acquisition?

Auto works most of the time, but sometimes I’d like to choose a specific eye to start.

You can use the shutter for single point AF and then program the AF-ON to go to face and eye. I have Fv and C1-3 configured for several of those options. I also set the * button to Zone AF to hone in on BIF then switching to the AF-ON.

Have you seen this video? It's an R3 but watch the technique being used. He is using Single point & expansion AF

Minute 3:10 is a good example.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=LGrEWOZYgDw

SereneSpeed wrote in post #19317205
When using eyeAF, is there a way to customize a button to switch quickly between auto and initial AF point acquisition?

Auto works most of the time, but sometimes I’d like to choose a specific eye to start.

There's no customizable button for that, only the following shortcuts:

1) C1-C3
2) Configure My Menu for quick access
3) Move the white pre-focus square to the eye of your choice by pressing the joystick button

Minute 3:47 as well. and watch for a bit.

As SYS stated the joystick is a good option and I have used it a lot. For faster moving subjects it's not fast enough for me. I move the camera so the AF point falls on the subject.

So if I’m using auto and then use the joystick, I can get a moveable AF point to appear? (I thought I’d tried that and there was no AF point at all when auto was enabled). Will have to try again...

SereneSpeed wrote in post #19317264
So if I’m using auto and then use the joystick, I can get a moveable AF point to appear? (I thought I’d tried that and there was no AF point at all when auto was enabled). Will have to try again...

When you're in One Shot, the white pre-focus square appears but not in Servo mode. In order to have the white pre-focus square to appear in Servo mode, then you'd have to set the Initial Servo AF pt for Face/Eye detection to Auto. From there, once you press the joystick, you'll suddenly see left and right arrows appearing next to the double lined white box. The double line and arrows appearing mean you're now in control rather than the camera. You then just nudge the joystick to left or right and you'll see the white box moving from one eye to the other.

SYS wrote in post #19317196
12 max fps is achievable with the EF 300 f/2.8L IS II but not I, so 3-5 fps is normal and there's nothing you can do to change that unless you shoot in Elec. or with a different lens.

This is the first I’ve ever heard of a lens affecting the shutter speed of the body; got some explanation there?

Snydremark wrote in post #19317293
This is the first I’ve ever heard of a lens affecting the shutter speed of the body; got some explanation there?

Here's the list of things that affect fps, not just EF lenses but also batteries:

https://my.canon/en/su​pport/8204818600#9

And here's an informative YouTube video explaining the R5/R6 shutter limitations:

https://www.youtube.co​m …channel=TheJPEG​Experience

Thought I would post some images up of accident I had with r5 and 400 f2.8 the other day as Im impressed with the r5 Body strength

Basically I had my 400mm f2.8mk2 attached to r5 via and adapter and attached to the lens was a large Gitzo monopod with tilt head and I was out taking some shots here in hot Darwin and feeling thirsty decided to lay gear down on ground in front of my dual cab amarok and went to rear to get a drink out of the fridge . As i was coming back up the drivers side of the Amarok I decided to move the car forward a few meters forgetting my camera gear was resting on ground directly in front of vehicle grill !!. I started vehicle and as I took off heard a sickening crunch and cracking like the breaking of a branch under the tire !!!. Almost immediately I felt sick knowingI had just run over my damn camera gear. I only went a couple of meters before stopping but it was enough to total everything. When I got out I saw the Gitzo end of monopod peaking out from under side of vehicle broken but still attached to pan head and inturn still attached to lens foot and lens but no r5 body attached. Looking further I found r5 in dirt back some meter with broken adapter lying in track. Not a good look let me tell you . Anyway packed it all up and decided to inspect properly at home which are pics below.

Looking at damage it appears car wheel must have hit the lens hood first as thats totally destroyed yet lens itself especially near lens front ring with rubber seal ( where hood attaches )has no flat spots so looks like it didnt get the car weight. The rear of the lens wasnt as lucky with the adapter snapping at its lens lock section leaving this jammed under the lens connection flange which inturn is very bent but i think highly fixable/replacable ..

Then we get to R5 damage. I was amazed. Even though it had suffered some heavy impact ( especially being attached to lens and bearing some of itsweight directly on ground) and dragging under car it still worked after replacing the broken adapter with a new one!!.. Rubber camera cover around jack and usb inputs was scrapped off and its down to bare metal via some pretyy sever scrapping it got but all is till fine !. I was amazed as I was certainly sure the r5 was toast initially on front where adapter fitsrather than the body. Iglued the rubber back got a new adapter ( which is now a tight fit onr5 and now using on 100-400 5.6II till I get a repair verdict from Canon cps on whether 400 2.8 is repairable. Assuming the rear bent flange mount connection can be replaced only leaves a question of any internal damage as every thing looks ok ( no broken glass only a rubber seam crack on front lens rim except for totalled lens hood) . The damn hood will be 900AUd and rear connection change will most likely be 300.00AUD with labor so already gone for 1200AUD without the internals being checked. That will be the big cost I suspect if either the IS or AF is shot. ANyway heres hoping

Cheers

PS Laugh is Im getting shots off my 100-400 5.6 II that I recon are as good as my ef400 f2.8Mkii so going back to the 100-400 is no problem at moment..... but I miss the big white though..

Front of lens where lens Hood attaches seems ok with no super bad flat spots in lens rim( there are a couple of little ones viewable but they are old from previous knocks etc) or broken/scratched glass and only minor rubber splitting thank god ! . Mind you Canon will probably charge $200-300 for that to be replaced (: Also Front element looks like it could do with a good clean. Be nice if Canon did a quick front element clean as part of their normal repair process repair but I will hold my breath on that one as my 100-400 repaired recently had no such luck with a clean whenit was returned But ahats another story for another time

Rear of lens not so lucky. Black part under bent flange is part of the broken r5 adapter

Cheers

A couple of the shots I got immediately after getting a new adapter onto the r5 so r5 still working a treat

SYS wrote in post #19317300
Here's the list of things that affect fps, not just EF lenses but also batteries:

https://my.canon/en/su​pport/8204818600#9

And here's an informative YouTube video explaining the R5/R6 shutter limitations:

https://www.youtube.co​m …channel=TheJPEG​Experience

Nice; thanks! Still baffles me a bit, though, as to what characteristic of the lens creates these limits/bottlenecks. Battery/power totally makes sense, but lens?

I haven’t watched the vids yet, but will

[QUOTE=clipper_from_oz​;19317377]Thought I would post some images up of accident I had with r5 and 400 f2.8 the other day as Im impressed with the r5 Body strength

Basically I had my 400mm f2.8mk2 attached to r5 via and adapter and attached to the lens was a large Gitzo monopod with tilt head and I was out taking some shots here in hot Darwin and feeling thirsty decided to lay gear down on ground in front of my dual cab amarok and went to rear to get a drink out of the fridge . As i was coming back up the drivers side of the Amarok I decided to move the car forward a few meters forgetting my camera gear was resting on ground directly in front of vehicle grill !!. I started vehicle and as I took off heard a sickening crunch and cracking like the breaking of a branch under the tire !!!. >snip

Cheers

>snip/QUOTE]

OUCH!